Clean them then! Lol. I don’t think it would be much issue on a Q8 light where the tops slide across a brass ring. IDK.
Maybe I need copper buttons? Those surely oxidize.
Maybe a little layer of solder on the top will keep it clean?
I was also thinking I could solder some of these on top. It has to be better than spot welding them.
.
Maybe much later but I would not count on it unless they get stuck with a bunch of hosts they can’t sell for some reason. They already ordered enough LED’s for the hosts they have in stock.
So for now it would seem that swapping the LED yourself is the best option.
Maybe I should buy a kit, just to be on the safe side in case I kill the MCPCB…
I have never soldered a LED (neither flowed nor re-flowed…)
Maybe I should start with something cheaper than a XHP70…
Yeah, find a cheap light and upgrade the LED in that to start with, it is not that hard but better to ruin a cheap $2 XP-G3 or similar LED over a $15 XHP70.2
There’s lots of videos on YouTube showing how to do it. Check out Old Lumens and AdventureSportFlashlights in particular.
I haven’t tried it myself either, but I probably will one of these days.
That’s actually very good! I’m happy now. Won’t be buying the 30q set then. At least not for now. Thank you Nkresho!
Thank you too Newlumen! Very much appreciated. Let’s put them 35Es to work!
P2 bin is the highest right? That’s good. What does the “C” means?
Yes, P2 is the highest bin.
The C means it will have a little green in the tint sadly.
Will the dedoming worsen this? Or will make it better?
It will tint shift warmer and a bit yellow / green. So it will get worse, how much I can’t say as all LED’s seem to dedome a little differnt and will depend on the person.
If you plan to dedome I would go with the CW or replace the LED with something of your choosing while you are doing it.
Now I’m really in doubt. I don’t like CW in any of my lights. I have a DX80 just for the sake of raw output, but really hate the tint. I wish I could get two MCPCBs with the different LEDs to test it out. I have a L6 with the N2 3A and really like the tint.
Yep… what TA said. 
Take a look at the tint chart below. Notice the B & C tints are above the dotted black line (BBL). They both lean toward the green tints. The further above the line the greener.
The A & D tints fall below the BBL and lean toward a rosier tint. The further below the BBL the rosier.
I would say the best option is to simply order an LED you know you would like from another source in your case and install it before converting the light.
I think KD has some A and D tints available IIRC.
Hmm I see. My L6 is 3A. Maybe that’s why I like it. Well. Now I will just do a little more research to try and decide it.
Thanks teacher.
Yeah. Maybe I’ll need to learn how to reflow LEDs. I’ll try and find some different LEDs on china. Thanks TA
This is what I do to basically every light I get anyways, I think I can count the lights with the factory LED’s on one hand lol.
Thanks bro… your lumen specs are really helpful.
I was a little surprised that the output tapered so close after just 30 seconds. Initially the 30q have quite the spike in output, but they fall off pretty fast.
Single emitter with so many cells had to be a factor too. Differences between, say, a 30q and a vtc5a are pretty noticeable on a triple emitter single cell light. It’s more when you approach the current limit of the high drain cells that you see the higher output from them.
Happy to help.
It also has a lot to do with the heat. The first 30 seconds of losses are largely a matter of things heating up and that causing a reduction in output if I had to guess. The 30Q gives it more power but it also heats up more, so it seems to balance out.