But that wouldn’t address low temperatures and PTC tripping would kill the cell. Sounds like the typical marketing department over hype on nonexistent or features they don’t understand.
KuoH
Is the tube even that thick or is it just a thin piece of sheet metal rolled into a tube with a crimped side? I wouldn’t think they’d waste that much material and add weight by using a thick walled tube like a flashlight.
KuoH
I think the wall thickness of the battery tube is quite thick. Maybe at least 5mm thick. You can tell because there’s a threaded screw hole at the top.
DBSAR, do you have any more pictures of the lights internals or of the plastic part that’s removed?
Must have been a bad battery. I heated a Samsung 25r up in a Emisar D4, installing it backwards testing for reverse polarity protection. It heated up to measure 215ºF on the outside of the battery tube. No telling what the actual temp of the 25r was. By the time I got it apart, the battery was still at 180ºF with no venting. PTC, that HKJ mentioned, may have prevented it from thermal runaway and exploding though.
I think he Vented! 
Whatever breaks after a vent (tube, plastic housing) will break in a way we can’t predict if we don’t test it. Even a flying piece of plastic can be as good as a knife if it hits right, and that is if you are right about the tube having an easy way out for the gases. If a battery vents, it will increase the pressure inside a closed cylinder. So, no, no vent holes = possible pipe bomb.
Also, flashlights do explode from time to time (mobile phones and laptops too), it’s a risk we all take and we can’t be sure that they will vent through the driver board or switch hole or use any other “easy way out”. They are not designed to fail, they have all kinds of protections, and still, they sometimes do. Seems like the T1 works close to the battery fail limits without any thermal protection and I would prefer it not to.
That’s just my opinion and, of course, I could be wrong.
He certainly did, LOL!
“With flames” it appears. 
Gearbest contacted me, but never heard back yet from my reply.
right now for the sample i have I am keeping it limited to roughly 80% from maximum to keep the cell temps down.
I have been away for 5 days, and will try to do more testing this weekend.
Not true.
Let me easy some of your worries. We can predict up to a certain point. The battery tube in the T1 has two open ends. The bottom end has the cap screwed on so we still have the top, which is open. It only has a pcb screwed on top. It is by far and without doubt the weakest area. A little bit of pressure and the circuit board and plastic shell will go flying. There is zero chance it could build enough pressure to act anything like a pipe bomb. The construction of the T1 is very different from your typical flashlight.
Here is a pic of the battery tube.
So flying plastic, maybe.
Explosion with metal shrapnel, no.
If you really wanted to, you could add a safety vent to prevent the plastic housing from popping. Take a 1/4 rubber plug and drill a hole a bit smaller. Push the plug in flush and you have a water tight, emergency vent hole.
I don’t think I’m that worried about it. I’ll make sure not you use any cells I think are not 100%. I’ll probably stick to the factory cells. I can also make sure to run it a bit below max brightness.
it is likely the cell i used that gassed that odour was weak & an older cell in my case.
I think that is the general consensus. No can really get their battery temps up real high.
Pressure/Temperature/Current switch:
I agree
What accusations was I making? I was considering owning one and was simply learning more about it, hence the question.
KuoH
I see what happened. You responded to a quote I made to Aleister, so I thought I was talking to him. Sorry about getting you mixed up with him. I’ll delete my earlier post. Sorry.
I hope you don’t consider my thoughts as accusations, they are my thoughts.
I own three T1s and loved them on my 12 days camping trip, as a matter of fact here is my opinion for T1: Anyone got a zanflare T1 lantern? - #192 by Aleister
Ok… I managed to get this T1 apart, (the lens/globe is both clipped AND silicone in place! (nearly impossible to get apart to mod without damaging the weak plastic case) so after i got it apart, my plan was to install a lock-out switch to both torn it off & lock it out when packing in a back pack) which the T1 has the worst shut-off method of any lantern i ever tested, (have to hold the bottom button in for a couple seconds or cycle through the SOS & steady-on red modes) and the fact that it does not have any lock out, and turns on when ever its top touched something metal on a backpack) i found the battery positive + soldered connection on the top PCB. I managed to solder a small lead on that connection to connect in a switch. Once i installed the switch, now the lantern no longer has any dimming or ramping. (it only turns on high or off.) meaning either the driver electronics are way to sensitive to try adding in a on/off switch or try to mod. when i got it back together, now it only turns on & off in the cool-white mode when touching the top touch-button. ( no brightness ramping, and no working warm white mode. I tried removing the switch lead and setting it back to its normal factory state, there is still no modes or ramping or warm white. Seems like the driver screwed up completely.
- My opinion on this T1 is that its a good attempt at a compact lantern, but they failed miserably with the over-sensitive touch control, (turns on in a backpack) lack of physical lock out, parasitic drain, lack of modability, & heating of the battery tube by using it as a heat sink.
I have retired this to the bottom of the kitchen trash can. This is the first time i really got frustrated in a lantern this bad to the point i tossed it in the trash. of all the lanterns i modded, built, flashlights i also modded & built, this T1 is the worst wast of money i ever bought. When i go camping & on our canoe expeditions, no one wants to have to remove the battery every time its packed in gear bags.
Image below, factory “pull ties” hold the LED strips to the battery tube.
photo of the T1 after the switch mod.
Am i the only person who is having horrible luck with these T1 lanterns? or are they really just unreliable crap?
So a second non-modded Zanflare T1 lantern i had bought & gave to a friend back in August, failed.
It still works no problem in all modes, but for some reason with in a month it drained its battery (the cell that it came with) down to 0.71 volts while it was off and sitting on a shelf. he brought it back to me today, and i tested the cell and its definitely dead & drained, and probably to low to safely recharge. I placed another charged cell in the lantern, and while the lantern still works fine on all its modes, the blue charge indicator LED stays on all the time, even with the lantern off and not charging. I checked the parasitic drain and found it was still draining the cell at 0.13 amps with the lantern off and not plugged in. So i’m guessing its charging circuit either shorted or failed in some way. Either way the lantern is only 2 months old, and ruined its battery and has a bad drain for some reason.
Maybe i should file a claim for this one with Gearbest…
