I do have measuring equipment - the light meter I mention in my first post #991 that produced the ceiling bounce comparison Turbo mode numbers that I listed - but it isn’t a very expensive one but it does seem to be consistent.
Also, it is the double-click Turbo modes that I am comparing.
Hope this helps to clear up any misunderstandings.
Okay.
A ceiling bounce test between lights that have the same beam pattern can be a good comparison.
So you have both versions of the C8F, but only an 18650 battery?
You’ve tried the new light at the top of the ramp and a dbl clk and it’s still weaker than the old light?
Keep in mind that part of the reason the new light is rated at a higher lumen is because of the more powerful 21700 cell. So in theory, both your lights should have about the same output.
What DB said about the longer battery tube on the new light not pushing the springs very hard against the battery ends might be a reason. If it pushes with very light contact it can create a lot of resistance.
Here’s something you can try. Take a short and thick piece of wire and bypass the tail cap. Run the wire between the negative battery end and the bare metal on the battery tube. At the same time push on the battery so it presses against the front spring firmly. If doing this gives you equal output to your older light then we know the light itself is okay.
Like with all new lights, you should make sure the driver and tail switch retaining rings are tight and haven’t loosened up in transport.
Did you successfully figure out how to switch from ramping to one of the other modes?
I’m still not sure how it’s done. Lol
You never explained what the lock ups where doing. Does it just stop responding or does it not register all of the clicks properly? Do you think your switch may not be making good contact or does it seem more like something in the software that is hanging up?
I just stuck an 18650 battery in to check performance in comparison to the 21700 and measured 420 lux for the 18650 against 460 lux for the 21700. The 18650 was a decent Klarus high current one.
So there is a bit of difference. Both batteries were fully charged.
With the light on and in ramping mode try clicking the side button 4 times on quick succession - the light should blink 2 times indicating that it has switched back in to Group 1.
Regarding lock ups I’m not sure if it is the side switch not responding or the light just “crashes” but for example when clicking between levels (not groups) I have had the light go Low > click > Medium > click > High > click > Low > click > Medium > click - nothing still in Medium > click - still nothing, still in Medium > click and hold - sometimes the light stays on other times it goes off. Then I pull the battery to start again.
Hopefully, the new cells might help shrugs - fingers crossed
Hmmm, I don’t think the battery is going to have any effect on the switch.
It’s possible the switch may not be making good contact internally or the rubber cover is not centered. I’m not really sure. You could try unscrewing the bezel on the switch and removing the rubber cover then push on the metal switch directly and see if it still does it.
There is another way to test it by bypassing the switch, but I don’t know how familiar you are with electronics.
I know what you mean about the batteries but you never know.
I don’t really want to start pulling the light apart as it kinda works at the moment and I would probably kill it completely if I were to start fiddling too much
Given the number of Sofirn lights that I already have that work absolutely fine and the bargain price that they are, to get one that is a bit faulty isn’t really the end of the world I guess - just a little disappointing.
You can still contact Sofirn about a warranty. They may ask you to make a video showing the problem. Some companies do that. See what they say. You shouldn’t just accept a faulty light.
If you get it in September, that’ll be pretty good.
Once it gets the “processed through…” part, it’s pretty much incommunicado ’til you’ll get the “arrived ISC Los Angeles” email or whatever. Could be a week, could be three.
Thank you Lightbringer and JasonWW. That both answers my question, and gives me confidence that this advanced technology will be in my possession soon enough. :+1:
Like he said, once it hits “snailmail” it moves pretty fast, but it’s the barge coasting across the ocean that takes most of the time. That, and sitting on the docks in a cargo container, being packed/unpacked, etc.
I once ordered 2 lights from Sofirn within a day or so. First one must’ve just caught the tail end of the still-got-room barge and I got that pretty quickly, but the second one missed the boat, literally, and took a month or more.
“Regular shipments” across the ocean are pretty much “whenever the barge gets filled”. Neither Sofirn nor the USPS have any control over that. Talk to Maersk or whoever.