This evening I soldered a loop into one of the triple boards to check current at the emitters, each board is pulling 14.53A for a total of 58.12A, an estimated ~188 Watts. Each Samsung W6 emitter is pushing 1460 lumens for 17,526 lumens at start on 4 Samsung 30Q cells.
This evening I soldered a loop into one of the triple boards to check current at the emitters, each board is pulling 14.53A for a total of 58.12A, an estimated ~188 Watts. Each Samsung W6 emitter is pushing 1460 lumens for 17,526 lumens at start on 4 Samsung 30Q cells.
Makes for one CRAZY lightning show!
We would Love to see some pictures
Be careful, that’s enough amps to Weld Steel with !!!
I lost with this , I need to back up to the beginning of your mod to understand what your making.
—
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
Built a PD68 tripledown board. Still a bench project but I do have one in a light but it is just pressfit and not soldered in yet. It runs Bistro-HD right now. Still yet to settle on mode groups and actually build them out.
I’m not quite ready to make permanent modifications to this light for Mrs. manithree, so I made a drop-in replacement for the incandescent bulb using a high CRI Yuji strawhat, a brass washer, and some copper wire.
I’m not quite ready to make permanent modifications to this light for Mrs. manithree, so I made a drop-in replacement for the incandescent bulb using a high CRI Yuji strawhat, a brass washer, and some copper wire.
Looks good manithree. Hows the beam in the reflector?
I was hoping to get the emitter just a little further forward than it ended up. So it’s a doughnut. And it’s significantly less bright than the incandescent which had a slightly worse beam pattern.
djozz wrote:
Nice, that will run forever direct drive on two alkalines!
I have a couple of eneloop AAs in C sleeves to run it. A flashlight that old that has never had an alkine leak in it should be kept that way, IMO.
But, yeah, it’s not very bright, so I expect battery life won’t be a problem.
Ok, so y’all know by now that the right cell can make a big difference, right? I mean, you go to a lot of trouble modding a light you want to use the cell that’s going to show it off, sure ya do!
So, I got the new Samsung’s in my Meteor and made some tweaks, with Samsung 30Q’s it was making like 17,528 lumens, right? But how can that be enough? I mean, the math said there was more to found so I ordered some of the new (to me anyway) Samsung 25S 18650’s. Supposed to be directly comparable to the Sony VTC5A and 5D cells.
Got solder blobs on 4 out of 8, got em charged up, stuck em in the Meteor and fired that bad boy up! AND….
Tonight I converted my TK45 to be able to swap back and forth between the 4/8 AA carrier and a 26650.
I previously installed a 7135 based driver so input voltage was already in the 3-5v range. The carrier had been modified at that time to give 4s NiMH voltage (stock the light was 8S AA) and it could deliver that~4v even if only half loaded with 4 AA as long as I used the correct slots. The 26650 also gives a 105g weight advantage over the same capacity of NIMH (8 NiMH arranged 2p4s giving a capacity of ~4.0Ah + carrier = 275g, 26650 @ ~4.0Ah & adapter parts = 170g)
—
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
I have an Astrolux MF02 modded to Fet driver and XHP70.2 with Andúril.
It made 9060 lumens and 226 kcd.
Now I removed the led and wanted to shave it. I made a little tool beacause cant find a good washer to help with the razor cut. If the hole was big enough then it was too thick. So find some aluminum sheet and choosed the best thickness and made this:
Zozz, curious… did you, when making the slice, use a push cut a slice cut? What I mean is, did you push the razor blade straight across to slice the dome off or did you drag the blade in a slicing motion?
I have started slicing off a thin tip of the dome first, then a secondary slice, then a third, then using the spacer but angling the blade such that it cuts slightly high, then a final pass at the correct height such that a very thin wafer of dome is removed last. This has allowed me to have a pretty clean slice, and I also use silicone grease on the blade to allow it to not grab on the way through. Do I really need to go to all this trouble? Or is it just being OCD in the mod department? lol
Zozz, curious… did you, when making the slice, use a push cut a slice cut? What I mean is, did you push the razor blade straight across to slice the dome off or did you drag the blade in a slicing motion?
I have started slicing off a thin tip of the dome first, then a secondary slice, then a third, then using the spacer but angling the blade such that it cuts slightly high, then a final pass at the correct height such that a very thin wafer of dome is removed last. This has allowed me to have a pretty clean slice, and I also use silicone grease on the blade to allow it to not grab on the way through. Do I really need to go to all this trouble? Or is it just being OCD in the mod department? lol
Other leds I used silicone grease on the razor and I made it in a slicing motion.
For this one I forgot to grease so cutted straight in I mean sliced. So it has a little crack in the left dome but luckily on the very edge and not above dies.
First time not pushed down very much on the shim so get a little left to make it clean. Then I pressed more on the helping plate and I holded the razor in a little angle and gone through the led from every four side because on the leaving os running out side the blade always left thicker material. It is better to grease the blade. Maybe on the next for the GT I will make a better cleaner job than this one.
I made my guide fit very tight to the dome, to support the outside diameter of the dome during the lubed up, angled slice and also during the sanding/polishing process. Love those Wilkinson blades…
This evening I soldered a loop into one of the triple boards to check current at the emitters, each board is pulling 14.53A for a total of 58.12A, an estimated ~188 Watts.
Each Samsung W6 emitter is pushing 1460 lumens for 17,526 lumens at start on 4 Samsung 30Q cells.
Makes for one CRAZY lightning show!
I couldn’t agree more with you CNCman. And that goes to the program creators for these drivers as well.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Not today but added a lighted tail switch to the FourSevens Mini ML Ti Triple Nichia 219C 5000K.
LD-A4 3A driver - Start around 1800lm DD 60°C, 320lm stepdown 25s. 942lm CC 60°C, 270lm stepdown 60s.
White LED's under the green GITD silicone circling the reverse clicky titanium switch cover.
.
New GITD titanium switch cover for the FourSevens PK Paladin Triple XP-G2 3D.
FET 15+1 driver, reverse clicky tail switch - Start around 1900lm DD, 928lm stepdown 30s.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
Fantastic CRX. Man I like that mini.
Yeah that is a nice one
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
I wish I had your smarts CRX.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Not so smart, just perseverance
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
…and a certain amount of talent, an eye for detail plus a sense of craftsmanship.
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Hard to argue with this.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
We would Love to see some pictures
Be careful, that’s enough amps to Weld Steel with !!!
I lost with this , I need to back up to the beginning of your mod to understand what your making.
Think outside the box too long , cannot find your way back in.
Necessity is the mother of invention and the father is creativity.
Never give up, Never surrender. Make someone Smile today.
Not “today” butttt
Built a PD68 tripledown board. Still a bench project but I do have one in a light but it is just pressfit and not soldered in yet. It runs Bistro-HD right now. Still yet to settle on mode groups and actually build them out.
The cut in the PCB is intentional
Reflowing the LEDs
unlit
small 7135 channel
big 7135 channel
FET
Bistro-HD ramp “strobe” snippet
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kUDUnceKqBWrT7zF7
This is awesome.
I believe you filed the MPCB and optic to fit into the head?
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
Yes, MCPCB diameter just over 18mm to fit. The pill has some extra copper added too.
- LEDs & Other Stuff - - UI CheatSheets - - CRX Flashlight Builds - - CRX Stuff for Sale -
I’m not quite ready to make permanent modifications to this light for Mrs. manithree, so I made a drop-in replacement for the incandescent bulb using a high CRI Yuji strawhat, a brass washer, and some copper wire.
Looks good manithree. Hows the beam in the reflector?
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
Nice, that will run forever direct drive on two alkalines!
link to djozz tests
I was hoping to get the emitter just a little further forward than it ended up. So it’s a doughnut. And it’s significantly less bright than the incandescent which had a slightly worse beam pattern.
I have a couple of eneloop AAs in C sleeves to run it. A flashlight that old that has never had an alkine leak in it should be kept that way, IMO.
But, yeah, it’s not very bright, so I expect battery life won’t be a problem.
Ok, so y’all know by now that the right cell can make a big difference, right? I mean, you go to a lot of trouble modding a light you want to use the cell that’s going to show it off, sure ya do!
So, I got the new Samsung’s in my Meteor and made some tweaks, with Samsung 30Q’s it was making like 17,528 lumens, right? But how can that be enough? I mean, the math said there was more to found so I ordered some of the new (to me anyway) Samsung 25S 18650’s. Supposed to be directly comparable to the Sony VTC5A and 5D cells.
Got solder blobs on 4 out of 8, got em charged up, stuck em in the Meteor and fired that bad boy up! AND….
18,940.5 lumens at start! Yeowza!
1412 lumens for a battery swap, I’ll take it! lol
[quote=CRX]
Not today but added a lighted tail switch to the FourSevens Mini ML Ti Triple Nichia 219C 5000K.
LD-A4 3A driver – Start around 1800lm DD 60°C, 320lm stepdown 25s. 942lm CC 60°C, 270lm stepdown 60s.
White LED’s under the green GITD silicone circling the reverse clicky titanium switch cover.
.
Awesome build CRX!!
Tonight I converted my TK45 to be able to swap back and forth between the 4/8 AA carrier and a 26650.
I previously installed a 7135 based driver so input voltage was already in the 3-5v range. The carrier had been modified at that time to give 4s NiMH voltage (stock the light was 8S AA) and it could deliver that~4v even if only half loaded with 4 AA as long as I used the correct slots. The 26650 also gives a 105g weight advantage over the same capacity of NIMH (8 NiMH arranged 2p4s giving a capacity of ~4.0Ah + carrier = 275g, 26650 @ ~4.0Ah & adapter parts = 170g)
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Looks very nice, can you measure the thickness?
Zozz, curious… did you, when making the slice, use a push cut a slice cut? What I mean is, did you push the razor blade straight across to slice the dome off or did you drag the blade in a slicing motion?
I have started slicing off a thin tip of the dome first, then a secondary slice, then a third, then using the spacer but angling the blade such that it cuts slightly high, then a final pass at the correct height such that a very thin wafer of dome is removed last. This has allowed me to have a pretty clean slice, and I also use silicone grease on the blade to allow it to not grab on the way through. Do I really need to go to all this trouble? Or is it just being OCD in the mod department? lol
LichtAn:
I will measure when I get home.
Other leds I used silicone grease on the razor and I made it in a slicing motion.
For this one I forgot to grease so cutted straight in
First time not pushed down very much on the shim so get a little left to make it clean. Then I pressed more on the helping plate and I holded the razor in a little angle and gone through the led from every four side because on the leaving os running out side the blade always left thicker material. It is better to grease the blade. Maybe on the next for the GT I will make a better cleaner job than this one.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
I made my guide fit very tight to the dome, to support the outside diameter of the dome during the lubed up, angled slice and also during the sanding/polishing process. Love those Wilkinson blades…
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
I measured it. It is 1.00mm
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Thanks!
What do you guys use for sanding a LED, normal sandpaper?
And what for polishing?
I never sand and polish, slice only.
I used a sand paper, that I bought on ali, it was a 5 000 grid I guess.
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