S2+ with wider-angle TIR and nice 1-mode driver, say 1.5A or so.
Can’t beat that for close range lighting except for maybe an aspheric.
Thanks Lightbringer, Could you link me up with a 1 mode driver ? I’ve got a couple cheap S2+s I could use for that.
I got a bunch of those. Simple, stoopit, works. Nothing to go worng.
No µC to go mental on you, just parallelled 7135s and a reverse-protection diode. Great for pushing XP-E2s in old C8s (type I, with pill and 17mm hole), pretty much anything that takes 17mm drivers.
Get 20mm ones for SK98s if you go the aspheric route.
Oh, and order some springs if you don’t want to be stuck with button-tops. FT got ’em in a bunch of different lengths/sizes, just pick one that suits ya. No need to bypass anything or go with huge springs with only 1.4A.
That looks like a no brainer. Not too hot, on/off, hand to newb FL. Thanks.
PS: which angle TIR do you use mostly ? I’m thinking 45 degree is best for flood?
Not sure what’s the come-with angle of the RJ02, but I swapped that for a 60° and like it.
Wider (90°, 120°) seem to be a bit ringy. Might just be more critical as far as seating height over the LED, dunno, but I wasn’t crazy about ’em.
The emitters in my S2+s are angry blue . I suppose TIRs don’t help ?
They’re already all-blue, so not much tint-shift to fix.
One more ? . Does the driver you linked have any form of LVW ? Doesn’t say it does in specs. I’d like to set an S2+ up for my granddaughter to use.
No it does not, it would have to have a mcu.
Ok , thanks . I guess this would not be a good choice then.Anyone no of a single mode , low power S2+ driver with LVP.
You could try contacting RMM (Richard) on here or at Mtn.electronics for a custom one mode driver with LVP.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_116&product_id=382
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You could also use this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-KDLIGHT-7135-V3-17mm-AMC7135-1-Cell-16-Groups-Flashlight-Driver-Board-1-pc/32701071546.html
Solder all 4 bridges to get high mode only. Unsolder as many of the amc7135 regulators as you see fit to reduce the current. Each one you take off reduces the current by 380ma.
Excuse my ignorance , could you please tell me what bridges to solder?
In that ali link look at the pictures to the left. On the battery side of the driver you will see 8 tinned pads in groups of 2. Soldering 2 pads together is bridging the connection to change modes in the mcu. The instructions for mode groups and which bridges does what are near the bottom of that linked page.
Ok , I will look it over . Now I see where hi = bridging all 4 pads . Thanks
Anything with a µC would certainly have multimodes, unless reflashed.
The 7135, though, needs a certain minimum voltage to keep working, about 2.7V, so it’s not like DDing an LED and leaving it on in a closet or anything. It will cut out.
So it does have a form of LVP by default you are saying.I rather use this driver as it is cheap.
Not precise, as in sensing the input voltage and cutting out when it drops to X, but yeah, 7135s do cut out below a certain voltage.
If anyone’s interested in trying a batch, have at it. With, say, 3 chips, one might cut out at 2.73V, the next at 2.69V, the last at 2.65V. So it’s not one Master Circuit doing it, but it will crap out before killing the cell.
And when you see it getting dim, that’s Clue #1 to stop and recharge.
Dim happens over a period of time so might not be easy to judge . I have seen step downs that weren’t noticeable if down gradually .
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My second favorite AA light. Thanks Sprinkles. Ordered two more.