I got a bunch of those. Simple, stoopit, works. Nothing to go worng.
No µC to go mental on you, just parallelled 7135s and a reverse-protection diode. Great for pushing XP-E2s in old C8s (type I, with pill and 17mm hole), pretty much anything that takes 17mm drivers.
Get 20mm ones for SK98s if you go the aspheric route.
Oh, and order some springs if you don’t want to be stuck with button-tops. FT got ’em in a bunch of different lengths/sizes, just pick one that suits ya. No need to bypass anything or go with huge springs with only 1.4A.
That looks like a no brainer. Not too hot, on/off, hand to newb FL. Thanks.
PS: which angle TIR do you use mostly ? I’m thinking 45 degree is best for flood?
In that ali link look at the pictures to the left. On the battery side of the driver you will see 8 tinned pads in groups of 2. Soldering 2 pads together is bridging the connection to change modes in the mcu. The instructions for mode groups and which bridges does what are near the bottom of that linked page.
Anything with a µC would certainly have multimodes, unless reflashed.
The 7135, though, needs a certain minimum voltage to keep working, about 2.7V, so it’s not like DDing an LED and leaving it on in a closet or anything. It will cut out.
Not precise, as in sensing the input voltage and cutting out when it drops to X, but yeah, 7135s do cut out below a certain voltage.
If anyone’s interested in trying a batch, have at it. With, say, 3 chips, one might cut out at 2.73V, the next at 2.69V, the last at 2.65V. So it’s not one Master Circuit doing it, but it will crap out before killing the cell.
And when you see it getting dim, that’s Clue #1 to stop and recharge.