Amazon Deal Alerts & Discussion Thread

No it does not, it would have to have a mcu.

Ok , thanks . I guess this would not be a good choice then.Anyone no of a single mode , low power S2+ driver with LVP.

You could try contacting RMM (Richard) on here or at Mtn.electronics for a custom one mode driver with LVP.
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_116&product_id=382
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You could also use this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-KDLIGHT-7135-V3-17mm-AMC7135-1-Cell-16-Groups-Flashlight-Driver-Board-1-pc/32701071546.html
Solder all 4 bridges to get high mode only. Unsolder as many of the amc7135 regulators as you see fit to reduce the current. Each one you take off reduces the current by 380ma.

Excuse my ignorance , could you please tell me what bridges to solder?

In that ali link look at the pictures to the left. On the battery side of the driver you will see 8 tinned pads in groups of 2. Soldering 2 pads together is bridging the connection to change modes in the mcu. The instructions for mode groups and which bridges does what are near the bottom of that linked page.

Ok , I will look it over . Now I see where hi = bridging all 4 pads . Thanks

Anything with a µC would certainly have multimodes, unless reflashed.

The 7135, though, needs a certain minimum voltage to keep working, about 2.7V, so it’s not like DDing an LED and leaving it on in a closet or anything. It will cut out.

So it does have a form of LVP by default you are saying.I rather use this driver as it is cheap.

Not precise, as in sensing the input voltage and cutting out when it drops to X, but yeah, 7135s do cut out below a certain voltage.

If anyone’s interested in trying a batch, have at it. With, say, 3 chips, one might cut out at 2.73V, the next at 2.69V, the last at 2.65V. So it’s not one Master Circuit doing it, but it will crap out before killing the cell.

And when you see it getting dim, that’s Clue #1 to stop and recharge.

Dim happens over a period of time so might not be easy to judge . I have seen step downs that weren’t noticeable if down gradually .

I sent an email to UltraTac asking about their A1. They sent me back a coupon code to share for Amazon. Coupon price $11.99.

Here’s a link to the page: UltraTac A1 on Amazon
Here’s the coupon code: BLFA1OFF

My second favorite AA light. Thanks Sprinkles. Ordered two more.

Just ordered me another, thanks for sharing. :+1:

Thanks, ordered 3

No need to flash the driver I linked from Ali, the driver has a settable modes with the bridges. All four bridged one mode (high).
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The amc7135 in the datasheet list the working voltage as minium 2.7v, that doesn’t mean it wont work lower. It just means ADDtek specs all amc7135’s to work correctly at 2.7v. I have the exact driver you linked. I tested it with a DPS5015 and a XML, the light became dim at below 2.5v and kept getting dimer until 2.25v at that point the led was just barely glowing. At 2.5v just guessing, looked like maybe 5 to 10 lumens.
I don’t know where the amc7135 quits working but its definitely lower than 2.25v.
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Removing the diode and using a jumper supposed to gain a few millivolts back also, I tested mine with the diode on.

Rated pretty conservatively, then. :smiley:

The new Convoy driver with Biscotti firmware can be set for single-mode operation and has LVP at about 2.8V:

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/7135x3-7135x4-7135x6-7135x8-with-new-firmware/330416_32734523412.html

Or you can buy it as part of a ready-made light:

Either way, get the 4×7135 version and set it to single mode (mode group 12) for your family to use; you can always choose a different mode group in future if you want to.

I was looking at that driver. Too bad there isn’t a 50% setting in single mode.

Order the 4 chip version. This will be 50% on high of the 8 chip version.

4 chips = about 400 lumens or so?