4 hours at 700 lumens of 219B 9080 makes this an extremely practical light. When did you guys order? Howcome you got it so fast? I ordered mine on the first or second day it was announced but tracking status says “2018-08-10 06:02 – Origin Post is Preparing Shipment, We have received notice that the originating post is preparing to dispatch this mail piece”
Also Fireflies does not respond to my multiple emails. How did you guys get a hold of him?
I just want to say that Jacky of Enogear/Fireflies did just reply to my email and sent me my replacement Enogear AA stainless steel and sent me a free stainless steel 14500 usb rechargeable light. Therefore I will definitely buy more of the ROT66 soon.
I’m surprised your MF01 look that much brighter than the ROT66 and even more surprised that it is so much more on the rosy side of the BBL than even the Cree 3A. I have two MF01, one stock and one with Lexel’s buck driver. The 219C tint on both is on the greenish side of the BBL. One is significantly greener than the other.
The MF01 renders colors the best in your comparison. I think you won the tint lottery with the 219C.
The MF01 219C v1 (6 wires) is more one the rosy side than the MF01 219C v2 (2 wires) that is more on the yellow/green side. If I remember well, charles lin’s MF01 is a v1, both of yours are probably v2.
If the aux led board was offered with more emitter color choices, it would be a certain hit. Many people didn’t like that Emisar only offered the cyan ones. This would have been a opportunity to set your stuff apart.
I’m ocd and it kinda bugs me that the emitters on the side switch aren’t the same color of blue as the gitd strip. Aux LEDs could alleviate that I guess but I like the subtle glow and color of the gitd strip.
Talking about tiny amber smd leds, has anyone found a version yet that is a phosfor-converted amber? (so more efficient than direct amber leds) I have several PC-amber leds in powerled version but have not seen them in tiny format.
Does the firmware of older lights support it properly?
Good question. If not though, I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
If the aux led board was offered with more emitter color choices, it would be a certain hit. Many people didn’t like that Emisar only offered the cyan ones. This would have been a opportunity to set your stuff apart.
+1. I want amber and pink/purple aux lights to match the 219B 9080.
Does the firmware of older lights support it properly?
Good question. If not though, I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
What modes are those?
Too bad I don’t know how to flash the driver. Sigh…
Would be good if Fireflies can include Anduril in the next batch.
Does the firmware of older lights support it properly?
Good question. If not though, I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
What modes are those?
Too bad I don’t know how to flash the driver. Sigh…
Would be good if Fireflies can include Anduril in the next batch.
Lexel doesn’t support Anduril so it’s not likely to happen.
The modes are the same as in the D4S:
The aux LEDs are only active when the light is off, or locked, and each of these two “off” modes can be configured to operate in four ways:
Off
Low (~0.03 mA)
High (~0.90 mA)
Beacon (high for 0.5s, then off for ~3.5s, then repeat) (avg ~0.11 mA)
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
What modes are those?
Would be good if Fireflies can include Anduril in the next batch.
Lexel doesn’t support Anduril so it’s not likely to happen.
The modes are the same as in the D4S:
The aux LEDs are only active when the light is off, or locked, and each of these two “off” modes can be configured to operate in four ways:
Off
Low (~0.03 mA)
High (~0.90 mA)
Beacon (high for 0.5s, then off for ~3.5s, then repeat) (avg ~0.11 mA)
I think there’s a good chance of Anduril or something Anduril-like on a Fireflies light, since they’re looking for something like NarsilM but simpler.
I’ve got it running on a ROT66, as of about an hour ago, but I’m not done calibrating things yet. Gotta get the ramp shape fixed and the voltage calibrated, etc.
However, with a 3-channel driver and a switch LED, Anduril compiles just a few bytes too big to fit when I have all the options enabled. So for now I turned off the option for a blinking switch LED. It’s a little awkward anyway, with the arrangement of two always-on LEDs and two which can turn off.
Long-term though, I hope I can reduce the base code size a little bit so it’ll fit.
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you didn’t add a special circuit to the D4S driver or something. I don’t follow that thread so I’m not sure. (It’s growing too fast)
Thanks.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you didn’t add a special circuit to the D4S driver or something. I don’t follow that thread so I’m not sure. (It’s growing too fast)
The D4S has a different pin arrangement. It has aux LEDs and still has one pin free to do other things:
----
Reset -|1 8|- VCC
eswitch -|2 7|-
AUX LED -|3 6|- PWM (FET)
GND -|4 5|- PWM (1x7135)
----
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you didn’t add a special circuit to the D4S driver or something. I don’t follow that thread so I’m not sure. (It’s growing too fast)
The D4S has a different pin arrangement. It has aux LEDs and still has one pin free to do other things:
----
Reset -|1 8|- VCC
eswitch -|2 7|-
AUX LED -|3 6|- PWM (FET)
GND -|4 5|- PWM (1x7135)
----
I got ya. The D4S does not have switch lights so you ran it’s aux board to the “switch light” output. Then, the fact it’s 2 channel (instead of 3 channel on the ROT66) means you have one leftover pin free.
Cool, cool.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
As I do not have a ROT66 myself I can only post that I have first Aux board in my GEN3 tail setup finished and limited supply of LEDs and PCBs to make more as it was just first prototype of theese board design
basically the same as usual each LED has its own balance resistor so any combinations are possible
here just 2 rings in same color (ice blue and pink) that are dimable indipendantly with two trimmers,
the central 4 LEDs show low battery warning, the threshold voltage can be set as you wish with a resistor value swap
red for low battery has also its own brightness adjust trimmer, also any other color combination possible if you dont want red for low battery indication
right next to it my new D4S board also in Generation 3 here no circular pattern the trimmers are making a cross around the 4 LEDs
LVP shuts down all LEDs at the 2. threshold level, tested down to 3V, below that the LDO falls out of regulation and it stayes off until battery gets high enough above the hysteresis
Fireflies should have its own first prototypes tested right now but will very likely only bring only a blue and red for low battery variant with next batch
I’ve been away for some time so missed this, which is really interesting.
1: How do I buy one ? and from where ? preferably at a BLF price.
2: Who are Fireflies, what is the track record, is this a skunkworks project for somebody I know of ? (like Sofirn/Thorfire)
3: Clearly the BLF gurus have been involved in the development and are continuing work. Any background info would be welcome (PM if necessary).
It does look very nice.
Fireflies is a new company but with some (they mentioned to me) experienced guys who worked for other flashlight companies before (they will not:say which). Before releasing their first flashlight they contacted several people on BLF for advice (they asked me about leds), which is a clever move, but they also have a good nose themselves for what are wanted features and are especially keen on high CRI. That is about what I know. Their first runs of their first flashlight, ROT66, show some teething problems but is seems sofar that they are very willing to solve that for the customers.
Finally got my Nichia version from the group buy.
First I thought they forgot the switch but then I noticed it was only the underdesigned lanyard mount .
But there was something black visible on the center LED, after removing the bezel it turned out as a solder clump. Removed it and light is ok now. Glad I checked before running the LED on full for a while which might have have burned the LEDs dome.
End control could be better though.
Bezel was very tight btw. and made a terrible squeaking noise when turning. I added some grease to the threads since I have to open the bezel again in future for a planned mod.
Did a rough lumen measurement with my Nicha version and got about 4800 to 5000 lumens at start, checked my last unmodified Q8 against and they showed almost the same values (within one or two percent), both with 30Q. Very nice tint, Q8 is green in direct comparison. But it gets hot very fast – much, much faster than the Q8. Temperature sensor doesn’t seem to be adjusted yet, after a couple of seconds the light is too hot to touch.
Anyway, I’m pretty impressed with this light!
it gets hot very fast – much, much faster than the Q8. Temperature sensor doesn’t seem to be adjusted yet, after a couple of seconds the light is too hot to touch.
Anyway, I’m pretty impressed with this light!
It doesn’t get so hot like that, but it might potentially err in the other direction. As soon as it thinks it’s going to overheat, it glides down to about 2000 lm. The sensor can be calibrated though, and the temperature limit set to whatever you like.
I just want to say that Jacky of Enogear/Fireflies did just reply to my email and sent me my replacement Enogear AA stainless steel and sent me a free stainless steel 14500 usb rechargeable light. Therefore I will definitely buy more of the ROT66 soon.
Finished my review:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61987
Can I send my DOA XP-L back?
My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - http://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLIC_TV
Yes, 2 year warranty, please email us
Official store:
www.ff-light.com
New fireflies flashlights to come
NOV-MU Nichia E21A
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75049
E12R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74907
T9R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74550
T1R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74939
ROT66 Aux led board available now
Official store:
www.ff-light.com
New fireflies flashlights to come
NOV-MU Nichia E21A
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75049
E12R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74907
T9R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74550
T1R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74939
The MF01 219C v1 (6 wires) is more one the rosy side than the MF01 219C v2 (2 wires) that is more on the yellow/green side. If I remember well, charles lin’s MF01 is a v1, both of yours are probably v2.
If the aux led board was offered with more emitter color choices, it would be a certain hit. Many people didn’t like that Emisar only offered the cyan ones. This would have been a opportunity to set your stuff apart.
Yes please, amber secondary would be much more useful than blue.
Fireflies, can you post some photos of the board itself and installation procedure? Does the firmware of older lights support it properly?
I’m ocd and it kinda bugs me that the emitters on the side switch aren’t the same color of blue as the gitd strip. Aux LEDs could alleviate that I guess but I like the subtle glow and color of the gitd strip.
Talking about tiny amber smd leds, has anyone found a version yet that is a phosfor-converted amber? (so more efficient than direct amber leds) I have several PC-amber leds in powerled version but have not seen them in tiny format.
link to djozz tests
Good question. If not though, I should have Anduril working on the ROT66 soon, and it can run aux LEDs in four different modes if compiled with that option.
+1. I want amber and pink/purple aux lights to match the 219B 9080.
What modes are those?
Too bad I don’t know how to flash the driver. Sigh…
Would be good if Fireflies can include Anduril in the next batch.
Lexel doesn’t support Anduril so it’s not likely to happen.
The modes are the same as in the D4S:
The aux LEDs are only active when the light is off, or locked, and each of these two “off” modes can be configured to operate in four ways:
Off
Low (~0.03 mA)
High (~0.90 mA)
Beacon (high for 0.5s, then off for ~3.5s, then repeat) (avg ~0.11 mA)
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I think there’s a good chance of Anduril or something Anduril-like on a Fireflies light, since they’re looking for something like NarsilM but simpler.
I’ve got it running on a ROT66, as of about an hour ago, but I’m not done calibrating things yet. Gotta get the ramp shape fixed and the voltage calibrated, etc.
However, with a 3-channel driver and a switch LED, Anduril compiles just a few bytes too big to fit when I have all the options enabled. So for now I turned off the option for a blinking switch LED. It’s a little awkward anyway, with the arrangement of two always-on LEDs and two which can turn off.
Long-term though, I hope I can reduce the base code size a little bit so it’ll fit.
Has anyone received an XP-L version that was intact and working as advertised?
I have one en-route and am a bit fidgety about accepting the delivery.
Yeah, they would need your help to do it because I don’t think Lexel wants to mess with a new UI.
I’m guessing all Firelies needs is a good working version of Anduril from you and they can send it to their people flashing the drivers.
On a side note, does the aux board wire into the same spot as the MCU controlled switch lights? So you set both sets of lights off, low or high?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I’m guessing yes? The pin layout is pretty full.
---- Reset -|1 8|- VCC eswitch -|2 7|- switch LEDs FET -|3 6|- Nx7135 GND -|4 5|- 1x7135 ----There is nowhere to attach it except pin 7, which is already driving the switch LEDs.
You aren’t guessing. Lol
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you didn’t add a special circuit to the D4S driver or something. I don’t follow that thread so I’m not sure. (It’s growing too fast)
Thanks.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The D4S has a different pin arrangement. It has aux LEDs and still has one pin free to do other things:
---- Reset -|1 8|- VCC eswitch -|2 7|- AUX LED -|3 6|- PWM (FET) GND -|4 5|- PWM (1x7135) ----I got ya. The D4S does not have switch lights so you ran it’s aux board to the “switch light” output. Then, the fact it’s 2 channel (instead of 3 channel on the ROT66) means you have one leftover pin free.
Cool, cool.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Beam distance XPL?, Thanks!
As I do not have a ROT66 myself I can only post that I have first Aux board in my GEN3 tail setup finished and limited supply of LEDs and PCBs to make more as it was just first prototype of theese board design
basically the same as usual each LED has its own balance resistor so any combinations are possible
here just 2 rings in same color (ice blue and pink) that are dimable indipendantly with two trimmers,
the central 4 LEDs show low battery warning, the threshold voltage can be set as you wish with a resistor value swap
red for low battery has also its own brightness adjust trimmer, also any other color combination possible if you dont want red for low battery indication
right next to it my new D4S board also in Generation 3 here no circular pattern the trimmers are making a cross around the 4 LEDs
LVP shuts down all LEDs at the 2. threshold level, tested down to 3V, below that the LDO falls out of regulation and it stayes off until battery gets high enough above the hysteresis
Fireflies should have its own first prototypes tested right now but will very likely only bring only a blue and red for low battery variant with next batch
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I’ve been away for some time so missed this, which is really interesting.
1: How do I buy one ? and from where ? preferably at a BLF price.
2: Who are Fireflies, what is the track record, is this a skunkworks project for somebody I know of ? (like Sofirn/Thorfire)
3: Clearly the BLF gurus have been involved in the development and are continuing work. Any background info would be welcome (PM if necessary).
It does look very nice.
Cool stuff, Lexel!
link to djozz tests
Fireflies is a new company but with some (they mentioned to me) experienced guys who worked for other flashlight companies before (they will not:say which). Before releasing their first flashlight they contacted several people on BLF for advice (they asked me about leds), which is a clever move, but they also have a good nose themselves for what are wanted features and are especially keen on high CRI. That is about what I know. Their first runs of their first flashlight, ROT66, show some teething problems but is seems sofar that they are very willing to solve that for the customers.
link to djozz tests
Finally got my Nichia version from the group buy.
.
First I thought they forgot the switch but then I noticed it was only the underdesigned lanyard mount
But there was something black visible on the center LED, after removing the bezel it turned out as a solder clump. Removed it and light is ok now. Glad I checked before running the LED on full for a while which might have have burned the LEDs dome.
End control could be better though.
Bezel was very tight btw. and made a terrible squeaking noise when turning. I added some grease to the threads since I have to open the bezel again in future for a planned mod.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
Did a rough lumen measurement with my Nicha version and got about 4800 to 5000 lumens at start, checked my last unmodified Q8 against and they showed almost the same values (within one or two percent), both with 30Q. Very nice tint, Q8 is green in direct comparison. But it gets hot very fast – much, much faster than the Q8. Temperature sensor doesn’t seem to be adjusted yet, after a couple of seconds the light is too hot to touch.
Anyway, I’m pretty impressed with this light!
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
I have to say, for a first run “showing some teething problems”, I absolutely love my nichia version of this light. No problems what so ever.
If it’s of interest, here’s a build calibrated for the ROT66-219B:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2018-09-07.FF_ROT66.hex
It doesn’t get so hot like that, but it might potentially err in the other direction. As soon as it thinks it’s going to overheat, it glides down to about 2000 lm. The sensor can be calibrated though, and the temperature limit set to whatever you like.
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