Zebralight SC600 MkIII Emitter Swap

Not at all. The diameter is 25.5mm, the thickness is 1.5mm.

I had a similar experience with a SC64. Now i am thinking of getting another one and replacing the XP-L2 with something that has a nicer tint and beam. The big advantage of the newer zebras is that there are much more options for 3V LEDs in the 3535 footprint, than there are for 12V LEDs :slight_smile:

Sorry, i saw your post just now. Do you want to see anything in particular?

I have also been wanting to do this. It’s the perfect EDC light.

Driver PCB both sides and shape of tool you removed bezel.
Thank you, Mike

Here you are:



Bad news about the SC64c: Zebralight have slightly tweaked the bezel design and removed the lip where you inserted the tool. It obviously doesn’t prevent the mod, but it makes it makes visible damage to the bezel and a broken lens somewhat more likely with this method.

Teaser for later :sunglasses:

I like where this is going :smiley:

Could I ask what temperature and airflow setting you used on your reflow station? I mostly work with 63/37 solder so I’m not sure if my usual settings are appropriate.

The airflow was set to 4, the temperature to 400. I have not measured the actual temp of the hotair stream, so i don’t really know how accurate this setting is.

Most ugliest driver ever

We do not need to look at it. Effective, that is important.

Do I spy a sense resistor?

Also, I’m fascinated at the level of simplicity to this diver knowing it’s performance. Does anyone think we can reverse engineer this design? Are there proprietary components?

Maybe lexel and Toykeeper can but both of them are like fire and ice :smiley:

indeed it look simple and it perform so well + efficient.

Question for the Zebralight modders here. Has anybody tried installed Lee minus green filters underneath the glass? If yes, is it a tight fit to get the bezel and glass back on the light? Any way to get the filter installed security over the glass to prevent opening the light?

Thanks

I acutally spent some time thinking about this recently. With a press fit bezel and reflector I worry about the filter material shifting or wrinkling under the glass as it’s pressed against the o-ring or during use. The only way I might consider pressing the filter inside is if it were glued to the lens with something like UV LOCA, but I’ve never tried this and don’t know how well it would work. The other options are replacing the reflector with an optic so you have two surfaces to sandwich it between, or installing it over the glass with glue around the edge (or LOCA again I guess). The latter is described in a couple of old BLF comments.

Bob_McBob, thank you so much. BLF is such a great resource and I keep on learning so much thanks to people like yourself.
I really like the technique proposed by 1C3: (image below)

Sounds like putting it on the surface is a much better alternative, even if it means it may get scratched.
Is there any particular UV LOCA glue that you recommend?

I have some Lee filters on back order with Adorama. Will test them using this method as soon as I receive them!

Very interesting. Great job guys.

I’d love a SC64c with LH351 5000k 90cri, but I don’t think I’ll be able to reflow de led

Wow, this looks fantastic! Great work, moridin. :+1: Would this technique work on an SC52w, or is the pill design different (due to size)? Also, what candidate replacement emitters could work in it?