I’m just thinking, but being a small thing, wouldn’t it be possible to ask someone from US to buy it for you them send in a normal envelope as a letter?
Unfortunately, buying from MTN has a very expensive shipping, so that could be some alternative, if there would be no damage for the LED…
Beat me to it. Was gonna suggest
https://www.fasttech.com/search?xm-l2%205d
but yeah, they’re a little bit lower in output.
So, I’m waiting for a couple of C-AA sleeves to put some AA eneloops in this light.
I’m wondering if it’s possible to take a busted incan base, solder in a Yuji 5mm from mtn and just drop it in? Is DD from 2S AA gonna kill it?
Would not kill it, but overdrive by quite a bit if you were to use alkaline AAs. DON’T PUT IN LITHIUM AAs though. Their open circuit voltage is 1,8V, so that would be 3,6V and probably kill the LED instantly since it draws very low currents.
Just put in 2xNiMH AAs and you will be fine.
Cool, thanks. Eneloops ONLY is the plan. I’m hoping I can use an old incan base, then if it doesn’t last long, I can easily replace it.
I thought I had some C-sleeves, but it turns out they’re D sleeves. So I’m waiting on the sleeves and the LEDs for now.
Why does my spell check keep flagging “lumen”?
What does “BBL” mean on tint chart?
Black Body Locus.
It’s basically the color path of a perfect heater, or incandescent light source, known as a black body, that it would take at a certain color literal temperature, like 3000k, emitting light in every possible wavelength at a perfect sunlike color reproduction.
Going above the BBL means going to higher wavelengths, meaning going towards blue, or worse, green wavelengths.
Going below the BBL means going to lower wavelengths, meaning going to Nichia 219B’s rosiness level.
Is it bad that my charger shows 4.22 volts when finished charging Li-ion batteries? If so, how much of a problem is it? Should I return the charger under warranty?
Thanks!
As long as it doesn’t exceed 4.25V, you will be fine.
Just discharge the cell inside of a light for a few seconds, and it will come back down to 4.2V in a jim.
I would double check the voltage with a DMM.
I you have a driver, do you need the R1206 for correct operation in 12v configuration. Or do I remove and jump it with solder.
This is for a high amp mod. :question:
Why is it so much harder to desolder components from factory than it is, when you did them yourself. Tried to desolder a driver spring yesterday and cranked my 60W iron up to 380°C with a big chisel tip, still nothing. Using desoldering braid it even gets worse. Had to get it off with a regulated blowtorch.
The factories may be using lead-free solder (for health and safety regulations) which has a higher melting point then the leaded solder that most hobbyists use.
I suspected this. But how much higher should I go with the temperature?
Your heat setting is probably not totally incorrect, try this-
First FLUX IT, flux it real good.
Then add a tiny amount of your solder.
Now try again.
For 12v operation you leave the jumpers open and short the R1206 pads (a 0ohm 1206 size resistor or a solder blob is fine), for 6v operation you leave the resistor pads open and sort the 2 jumper pads.
Also tried that. Flux burns off gradually and I get a nice shiny blob of new solder on top of the old solder. Maybe I need a more aggressive flux, I just have tacky no clean flux.
You need some good, liquid flux like Kester
I got Chipquik and Stannol. Should do?