Awww crap. Paid full price for the spare carrier. Oh well. I think they deserve a little something for all the hard work. Can’t wait! Wait… how long is shipping to California?

UserM4 wrote:

Awww crap. Paid full price for the spare carrier. Oh well. I think they deserve a little something for all the hard work. Can’t wait! Wait… how long is shipping to California?

They are supposed to get the LED’s in late this week or early next week is the last I was told. Once that happens they have to get them reflowed to the mcpcb’s and then they can start packing orders. I would guess they will start shipping in 2-3 weeks.

Once shipped it generally only takes a few days for DHL to deliver to the USA.

Nice! Just in time for daylight savings!

Just have to find 999 more interested people,lol
https://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XHP70B-00-0000-0D0HN230H?qs...

Received the email saying the NW conversion kits are ready. The website allows me to order the CW kit as well… are those ready? The email didn’t explicitly say so I just want to double check

Yourrid wrote:

Received the email saying the NW conversion kits are ready. The website allows me to order the CW kit as well… are those ready? The email didn’t explicitly say so I just want to double check

Yes, both kits are ready, technically the CW kits were ready a little bit ago but they wanted to wait until they had both tints before selling them.

Texas_Ace wrote:

Yourrid wrote:

Received the email saying the NW conversion kits are ready. The website allows me to order the CW kit as well… are those ready? The email didn’t explicitly say so I just want to double check

Yes, both kits are ready, technically the CW kits were ready a little bit ago but they wanted to wait until they had both tints before selling them.

what is the expected run time in hi with the conversion kit?
can you use the short tube and long tube together to create a 3S carrier for more run time?

solRNY wrote:

what is the expected run time in hi with the conversion kit? can you use the short tube and long tube together to create a 3S carrier for more run time?

You will need a coupler.

solRNY wrote:

what is the expected run time in hi with the conversion kit? can you use the short tube and long tube together to create a 3S carrier for more run time?

The GT70 runtime (conversion or not) will depend on the brightness level.

On moon mode it should last months.

On turbo it might last an hour or 2

At the top of the ramp it should last around 2-4 hours

Anywhere in between, will have runtimes between there.

RIGHT OFF THE HAZG PRESS

Next Update: September 15, 2018

Are there any beam shots of the GT70 Cw & Nw and whatever other tint and GT35?

Texas_Ace wrote:

solRNY wrote:

what is the expected run time in hi with the conversion kit? can you use the short tube and long tube together to create a 3S carrier for more run time?

The GT70 runtime (conversion or not) will depend on the brightness level.

On moon mode it should last months.

On turbo it might last an hour or 2

At the top of the ramp it should last around 2-4 hours

Anywhere in between, will have runtimes between there.

Any idea on the max sustainable/stable lumens?

Thanks

yclongthrow wrote:

Any idea on the max sustainable/stable lumens?

Thanks

It will NOT be turbo, that is for sure.

Top of the ramp might be relatively stable for a while but I wouldn’t say for certain how bright that is. I’ve got my 8 30Q cells charging so will see what the go is using the ceiling bounce app with the light tailstanding inside a 22°C room with a fan oscilating.

I got about half the output number as turbo at the top of the ramp and it ran like so. The sag may have been part heat, part cells to attirbute to the decline in output over the 10 minutes.

I left it untouched pointing at the ceiling in a 22°C air conditioned room with a fan oscilating 2m away. I checked the temp 3 times and it never got hot to the point I was worried about it. I just wanted to go light some trees up from my balcony which are a few hundred metres away (~300m)

Turbo would have got much hotter, sagged much faster and definitely would not have got to 10 minutes in-hand-use in warmer climates like Australia most of the year as it would just be too hot to hold.

EDIT: I forgot to mention the jumps in output is another light source being picked up by the phone too if anyone is wondering why the light increased for a little while. That was when I came back into the room to check temp and stuff around. I’m not sure why it started to climb after the last spike up until I stopped logging…

Good info nitebiker.

You are correct that the top of the ramp is about 50-60% of the output as turbo and it is set that way for various reasons. One of which is that at this level it can sustain the output for an extended time, where you are correct, turbo will indeed trigger thermal protection in a few minutes and have a much more drastic drop in lumens. That is why turbo is only for limited bursts.

Texas_Ace wrote:

Good info nitebiker.

You are correct that the top of the ramp is about 50-60% of the output as turbo and it is set that way for various reasons. One of which is that at this level it can sustain the output for an extended time, where you are correct, turbo will indeed trigger thermal protection in a few minutes and have a much more drastic drop in lumens. That is why turbo is only for limited bursts.

I can confirm this.
I did another ceilingbounce test and
top of the ramp was: ~ 4000-4500lm
turbo was: ~ 8500-9000lm

having a long time sustainable top level is a good choice!

Kingjohn wrote:

Texas_Ace wrote:

Good info nitebiker.

You are correct that the top of the ramp is about 50-60% of the output as turbo and it is set that way for various reasons. One of which is that at this level it can sustain the output for an extended time, where you are correct, turbo will indeed trigger thermal protection in a few minutes and have a much more drastic drop in lumens. That is why turbo is only for limited bursts.

I can confirm this.
I did another ceilingbounce test and
top of the ramp was: ~ 4000-4500lm
turbo was: ~ 8500-9000lm

having a long time sustainable top level is a good choice!

Thanks KJ for the lumen output test.. blf gt70 can run 6000 lumen pretty long.

Got the Mail – Firefox does not work but IE worked .
Yesterday i ordered three times one CW conversion kit and two carriers .
Now its time to wait …….
Thank You guys ……. M.

I ordered this today. (Lumintop GT70 Conversion Kit XHP70.2 LED NW+1*Centering Ring+1*TA Driver Giggle Monster)
I hope it has the right color. (NW)
Many thanks to the friendly users, in this flashlights forum.

Got a question about heat. Where is the threshold where the heat might damage the components? I know that when something is too hot to hold is above 50C. Does that temperature already represents a threat to the components? LEDs and drivers?
After seeing some videos about reflowing LEDs I can assume they can stand much higher temps than my hand is comfortable with.

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Maverick1947 wrote:

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Hmm. At what temperature should I start worrying?

It cooled off and continued to work fine. I do not know how hot it was…. BUT IT WAS HOT!#!

Maverick1947 wrote:

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Hmm. At what temperature should I start worrying?

I tested this light with a fully charged set of 8 30Q cells and disabled thermal protection. It peaked at 90C in a very hot garage.

This is fine for the components, they are generally rated for 125c or more and are not usually damaged until at least 150c.

Now the cells are the bigger issue, most cells max temp is around ~75c+, although the cells will obviously not be as hot as the head, when I pulled them out they were only around 50-60c IIRC.

solRNY wrote:

what is the expected run time in hi with the conversion kit? can you use the short tube and long tube together to create a 3S carrier for more run time?

Small correction – each cell carrier is 4S. Running three carriers would be 3P.

Like Newlumen said, you will need a coupler. The good news is that because of the GT’s cell carrier design, the battery tube doesn’t need to be conductive, so your coupler could be 3D printed if necessary.

Maverick1947 wrote:

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Hmm. At what temperature should I start worrying?

The driver components can withstand 230°C for a short time. This is when the solder becomes liquid.

Batteries can operate at 60°C to 70°C.

It’s the led that tends to get the hottest. I think it needs to stay below 150°C at it’s junction between the led and the mcpcb.

Texas_Ace wrote:

Maverick1947 wrote:

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Hmm. At what temperature should I start worrying?

I tested this light with a fully charged set of 8 30Q cells and disabled thermal protection. It peaked at 90C in a very hot garage.

This is fine for the components, they are generally rated for 125c or more and are not usually damaged until at least 150c.

Now the cells are the bigger issue, most cells max temp is around ~75c+, although the cells will obviously not be as hot as the head, when I pulled them out they were only around 50-60c IIRC.

JasonWW wrote:

Maverick1947 wrote:

teacher wrote:

No 50C presents no problem at all to components.

Hmm. At what temperature should I start worrying?

Worrying about what? Don’t worry at all. You can set your light to step down at 40°C if you want. Or 35°C.

The driver components can withstand 230°C for a short time. This is when the solder becomes liquid.

Batteries can operate at 60°C to 70°C.

It’s the led that tends to get the hottest. I think it needs to stay below 150°C at it’s junction between the led and the mcpcb.

I run blf gt70 turbo mode for 10 minutes.. it’s get warm to medium hot.. what a great heatsink… no sign of step down according from my eyes.