6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

new MF01s v2 are glued hard on the bezel with red locktite to get to the LED board,
very hard to get open, I heat it up to 140°C and then CNC machined brackets for bezel and head

the v2 500-1000 or 1500 were not glued, but need a LED and carrier mod for the Buck driver
MF01s v1 the first 500 have old LED board and can be used with simple driver swap

MF02 needs a simple Carrier mod or my replacement boards plus driver swap
MF02 heads were always glued first with blue stuff then with white stuff, but not as bad as MF01

Olight are really hard to get to the guts usually possted and press fit bezels

Its likely they use a buck driver with constant current output, so a LED swap wont do much output gain

You have to define what driver you are refering to.

Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.

No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver

I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.

It is described in post 4.

old boards

new boards

L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor)
LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver)
S switch
G common ground

on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like

I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V

I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?

sock driver means wiring switch to battery +

if switch board do not contain a resistor you have to add one usual values 10-50k depending on brightness and LED color

Are those the stock L6 boards?

Ok, thanks Lexel!

No those are my drivers in different revisions

Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6.

The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.

Thanks Jason, will look now at your links and see if I can do it!

Looking to order a couple drivers for my H03 please. With temp and lvp precalibrated. And I guess the short springs? Whichever spring is most commonly ordered with this driver, it’s my first time.

Hi Lexel,
I’m not sure if this was long ago asked, do you have a 21mm driver planned for use in the Sofirn C8F 21700 version? So e-switch, Narsil (Anduril?), FET+7135, no components at battery side because of thick retaining ring. A nasty feature of this host is that the rim on which the driver rests is rather wide, more than a mm (I can measure the exact width if needed), so the components should not be much further to the side than a 17mm driver.
If you can make this, I’m interested!

Same thing as djozz too.

The C8F 21700 looks dope, and I would love a driver with it in a triple NarsilM linear+FET arrangement, or even a boost driver if possible.

Lexel does not do Anduril and has no interest in it. Sorry.

I ordered a 20mm e-switch driver from him for the 21700 C8F host. Not sure if it shipped yet or not but I guess we will see how it fits or what mods I need to make to get it to work when it arrives.

For C8F with 21700 I need excact measurements for the driver to make a new design, could be basically a modified 17mm one

I hope Sofirn does at least modified the head so the MCPCB gets screwed on the head, got always shorting issues with the original design as often the head cut in the wires or if not screwed on the reflector shorting to reflector

20mm might work, I can sand it bigger after cutting out from a 10x10cm board so its 21mm but copper only 20mm wide
not sure if the silkscreen of the 20mm will be a problem with the retaining ring

I have downloaded Anduril a while ago but never come to really use it as it was mostly a problem to get it work with Atmel Studio
Today I tried to download the BLF GT Anduril Hex but not found on server

http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/

here is the latest hex files for each popular light