I just clicked on the links provided in the OP. Skip the clips with the cables attached and use the ribbon cable in the fasttech link instead.
It won’t let me copy/paste so just check the Required Hardware section in post #1, that’s what I did.
Of course this method requires some wait time, but there’s plenty to read before starting.
I took the easy way and used preconfigured hex files from toykeeper so I didn’t screw anything up.
I would post a link to that but my damned KVM is messing up and I can’t type on my other computer and I’m shutting my regular computers down now because it’s driving me crazy trying to type.
oh wait, here it is: Index of /torches/fsm
Hoop, could you remove this part? It’s not necessary to erase the chip before flashing, and a couple people reported that erasing it made the chip stop responding entirely. I’d rather not advise people to do something which might brick their hardware.
It’s probably also worth noting somewhere that the t13 part will change depending on the hardware, and tiny85 is pretty popular lately. Tiny13 settings won’t work on tiny85 hardware, and they use totally different fuse values.
I installed the entire thing, but have only played around with it and not compiled any code. I cannot say what parts are necessary for flashlight purposes, though people only seem to ever talk about the “studio” part of it…
I’ve read hundreds of posts and finally successfully flashed. Here is a condensed version of the hardware and software you would need if running a Windows computer (I use Windows 10)…enjoy!
I had some trouble figuring out exactly what to buy, but I figured it out after reading all the posts for months. Just get those three things I linked below for hardware.
Please read the previous posts in this thread to learn how to wire the usbasp to the clip and how to use avrdude to flash the chips…I merely wanted to provide quick links to the three hardwares I used and the two softwares I needed.
Thanks to everyone for all the information in this thread and others!
Special holla to ToyKeeper for all of her coding magic and Hoop for all the more detailed info and links!
Hope the above info helps you start flashing UI’s…
Okay just skimmed through all of the posts. Most of it didnt stick. I have a Q8 that wants TK’s candle+lightning mode bad enough that i’m going to try. Ordered parts!
I tried a lot of things and don’t know what is wrong. I get this error message when I testing connection with this command:
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
If it’s tiny25, make sure to use fuse values which match tiny25 instead of tiny13. They are not the same, and bad fuse values can basically brick the MCU.
You’ll also need firmware compiled for tiny25, because the .hex files aren’t compatible from one to the other. Tiny25 code can be flashed on 45 and 85, because they’re the same family… but tiny13 and tiny25 are different families.
Thank you. It is a stock convoy C8 driver and I think I haven’t touched it so it should be tiny13. I will look at it tomorrow morning because now I’m at work. Maybe I mixed up my drivers and that answers everything.
FWIW, the repository’s bin/ directory has scripts to flash tiny13, tiny25, and tiny85. I recommend using those scripts instead of running avrdude directly, because the scripts are much less likely to brick anything.
I’d suggest using the fsm branch instead of trunk, if you want the latest code. It’s newer but not as well-tested. Otherwise though, to build everything on a Linux computer, go into the ToyKeeper/spaghetti-monster/anduril/ directory and run the ./build-all.sh script.
On a Windows computer, it might be simplest to install an Ubuntu environment and do everything from there. It’s relatively complicated getting Atmel Studio configured.
