take a cleaning glove to the thread 
Oops… caused a little mayhem here… lol.
Sorry M4X…
Did anyone receive the diffuser? my package was missing this part, perhaps they’re back ordered?
I received mine.
My gt mini I ordered on my birthday and shipped Aug 4th has finally been scanned in the US @ ISC Chicago! Hope to get it sometime next week.
Cant find this in search.
Does it memorise turbo?
Is it the same software and ui as BLF Q8?
Yes, just updated with a couple of new features.
Same UI as the Q8 plus
- x5 is a momentary mode e.g. for morse signalling. You have to disconnect the batteries to quit momentary
- In Modes and Strobes you can now navigate backwards with hold. The Q8 is locked in in a mode when you use hold, it has a 1.5sec time out .
- Top of the ramp is only 50 or 80%. You must use a double click to go to turbo
Thank you.
Thank you.
One should swap the driver spring right after getting the Mini, its awful!, it causes lumen/lux flutctuatuins up to 20%. Otherwise, it if has a rear switch: the best nearly edc/all arround thrower light so far
Ofc i reworked mine
5.5A was plenty for me. I left it stock.
What battery tube & tailcap is that Mitko??
Hi guys, after about 45 days my gt mini arrived today.
What mods are needed to have it draw the full 5.5A claimed? I was under the impression none…
First I tried a ~3 month old 35E that I took out of another light that was reading 4.11v and measured the current at the tail on turbo and I only got 3.32A so I charged up an also very good condition 30Q and measured again fresh off the charger (@4.20v) and still only get 3.35A.
Double click to turbo right?
Do I need to bypass the springs and maybe swap to 18AWG LED wires?
Are you using a clamp meter to measure amps?
My completely stock light measured 2.85A at top of ramp and 5.5A on turbo with 30Q.
I even got 4.3A from a protected Panny GA 3500mah. So something seems off on your readings.
I don’t use a clamp meter, I have a .1omh shunt i use to make the connection then (with a dedicated-to-this-task DMM) measure the voltage across the shunt and run it threw ohms law. Same method I’ve used for years, it’s EXTREMELY accurate.
As a quick verification I just measured my eagle eye X6, it’s readng 5.25A which is exactly in line with what it should be doing (I keep record of all my builds and referenced it to check).
I’m very confident that my particular GT mini is truly only pulling 3.3A. Bummer.
How big is a visual brightness difference do you have from top-of-ramp to turbo? Mines very little.
Try a lux test. See how many candela it’s putting out. If it’s well below spec, then there might be something adding resistance to your light. I would check both ends of your battery tube to make sure you have nice clean bare contacts. Remove any oil or dirt. If no change, I guess you would need to bypass the driver spring. ¯\/¯
The jump from top of the ramp to turbo looks quite small. It’s 500 lumen, though.
Seems odd to see a relative noob giving build advise to an advanced veteran…
I was more looking for what route to take CS wise with this, I’m sure I could open it up and make it perform. Should I even bother trying to mod it just to get it up to spec, should I have to? Maybe I asked the wrong thing at first: Did I just assume wrong and I got what I paid for (I was under the impression 5.5A and ~140kcd were stock numbers), did I get what everyone else received or is my sample defective?
Addendum I’m decided, now that the indicator LED is no longer working its time to email BG. Really bummed :rage: I have the worst luck buying new lights recently, I should stick to builds but hey at least the ZL I got last Friday is just perfect!
Not really. I’ll help anyone out if I can regardless of their experience level. It’s just basic info and troubleshooting. Nothing very advanced. It’s not like these lights are rocket science. :partying_face: