Is it bad that my charger shows 4.22 volts when finished charging Li-ion batteries? If so, how much of a problem is it? Should I return the charger under warranty?
Thanks!
As long as it doesn’t exceed 4.25V, you will be fine.
Just discharge the cell inside of a light for a few seconds, and it will come back down to 4.2V in a jim.
I would double check the voltage with a DMM.
I you have a driver, do you need the R1206 for correct operation in 12v configuration. Or do I remove and jump it with solder.
This is for a high amp mod. :question:
Why is it so much harder to desolder components from factory than it is, when you did them yourself. Tried to desolder a driver spring yesterday and cranked my 60W iron up to 380°C with a big chisel tip, still nothing. Using desoldering braid it even gets worse. Had to get it off with a regulated blowtorch.
The factories may be using lead-free solder (for health and safety regulations) which has a higher melting point then the leaded solder that most hobbyists use.
I suspected this. But how much higher should I go with the temperature?
Your heat setting is probably not totally incorrect, try this-
First FLUX IT, flux it real good.
Then add a tiny amount of your solder.
Now try again.
For 12v operation you leave the jumpers open and short the R1206 pads (a 0ohm 1206 size resistor or a solder blob is fine), for 6v operation you leave the resistor pads open and sort the 2 jumper pads.
Also tried that. Flux burns off gradually and I get a nice shiny blob of new solder on top of the old solder. Maybe I need a more aggressive flux, I just have tacky no clean flux.
You need some good, liquid flux like Kester
I got Chipquik and Stannol. Should do?
What iron do you have?
The TS-100 from Banggood.
OK, then I will leave the previously installed R1206 on the Sinkpad. This is for a mod with a Lexel 7 amp driver.
Are you using a good 19v 3.42A power supply?
I don’t know much about that iron but the reviews on it seem pretty good.
Just make sure your tip is clean and you touch a bit of flux core solder to the end just before you attack the spring.
Are you cleaning the tip with a damp sponge? I used to usectgat, but it sucks too much heat from the tip. I use the brass coils that have flux in them now.
A 24V psu even. Also I watched the temperature while heating the spring, it doesn’t drop one degree, so it’s probably a heat transfer problem. But I’m already using the biggest tip available.
When I cleaned off all the old solder and applied my Sn63Pb37, everything becomes so easy from there on. So I guess it’s a combination of the solder used (very likely lead-free, because it’s not shiny at all) and thermal transfer.
Or do I need any specialized flux or tip when reworking lead-free?
I wouldn’t assume that temperature readout is accurate in real time. If your transferring heat from the iron to the object then it should definitely drop down.
If the readout is accurate, then maybe there is not much heat transfer. Do you think it’s possible the factory soldered piece has some type of clear coating on it to protect it? If there’s a coating, it may be acting as an insulator. You might try scraping on the factory solder and then try to melt it.
Emisar D4 and D1
Could you reverse the red/black wires on say the D1 head and fit it to the tail of the D4, to make a double headed (working) flashlight?
No, the driver circuit requires the correct polarity to operate. You would need a special battery with the positive center on both ends like you get with a battery carrier.