How long does it take to receive a light after ordering?
I ordered an CW version on 31 Aug and haven’t received any shipping info yet. Is this normal?
That does seem a bit long. Once it gets into the hands of DHL they can typically ship it to your door within 3 business days. The big variable is the time it takes to go from Lumintop to their third-party shipper and then to DHL. This can take from a few days to maybe 2 weeks. Maybe TA has a shipping update.
I would follow his advice here.
I did the ceiling bounce tests on the blf gt lights… I use my olight sr96 and mt18 as a reference since they are measured by TA tube…
Is lumintop in Hong Kong? If so I hope they are all ok after Mangkhut blasting through!
Is lumintop in Hong Kong? If so I hope they are all ok after Mangkhut blasting through!
Yeah, in Shenzhen.
They do ship in batches but it is odd that it has taken so long for yours. I would contact Leo@lumintop.com and check on the status.
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Thanks for the help.
I shot him an email.
JasonWW:They do ship in batches but it is odd that it has taken so long for yours. I would contact Leo@lumintop.com and check on the status.
Thanks for the help.
I shot him an email.
[/quote]
Already received a reply from Leo that he would arrange shipment this week and send me shipping info.
Thanks again for the assist.
I did the ceiling bounce tests on the blf gt lights… I use my olight sr96 and mt18 as a reference since they are measured by TA tube…
How did the olight sr96 and mt18 results compare with the TA Tube measurements??
God I missed these forums!
Someone update me on the stability of runtimes in each mode, please. And what are lumen outputs for the 12 standard modes?
Quite excited for CW version.
Is there any chance to buy a short battery tube for the GT (70) at the moment ?
BG doesnt really show if its available at the moment.
Would be great, to make this light somewhat “carryable”. It would fit into my backpack (sideways) and I would be able to carry this light with me (on tours). I visit bunkers, mines, huge factorys at night and this light would be great for some long range illumination.
This would make the light more useful for me, apart from being an “oversized toy” with limited practical use.
(Word of the day: would)
2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
My intentions is not really to try and squeeze out more juice, but to make sure they didn’t use that crap white rubbery thermal paste, and that the LED has got enough heatsinking behind it so that it can handle the heat. I modified my BTU Shocker into a SuperShocker over the weekend, and I was surprised at the crap thermal paste, very thin LED shelf and big unutilized gap between the LED shelf and the driver. Filling that with copper or even aluminium will help the LEDs a lot, and I was wondering how the BLF GT70 would compare.
God I missed these forums!
Someone update me on the stability of runtimes in each mode, please. And what are lumen outputs for the 12 standard modes?
Quite excited for CW version.
There are 150 different levels. The run times will vary depending on the level and whether your using 4 or 8 batteries and what type of batteries. That’s about all I can tell you. I’m not sure about specific run times.
Texas_Ace:2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
My intentions is not really to try and squeeze out more juice, but to make sure they didn’t use that crap white rubbery thermal paste, and that the LED has got enough heatsinking behind it so that it can handle the heat. I modified my BTU Shocker into a SuperShocker over the weekend, and I was surprised at the crap thermal paste, very thin LED shelf and big unutilized gap between the LED shelf and the driver. Filling that with copper or even aluminium will help the LEDs a lot, and I was wondering how the BLF GT70 would compare.
I would say it’s way better the BTU Shocker. It can handle 130 watts no problem. The Shocker was only about 30-40 watts I believe.
Is there any chance to buy a short battery tube for the GT (70) at the moment ?
BG doesnt really show if its available at the moment.
Would be great, to make this light somewhat “carryable”. It would fit into my backpack (sideways) and I would be able to carry this light with me (on tours). I visit bunkers, mines, huge factorys at night and this light would be great for some long range illumination.
This would make the light more useful for me, apart from being an “oversized toy” with limited practical use.
(Word of the day: would)
Try M4DM4X.
Is there any chance to buy a short battery tube for the GT (70) at the moment ?
BG doesnt really show if its available at the moment.
Would be great, to make this light somewhat “carryable”. It would fit into my backpack (sideways) and I would be able to carry this light with me (on tours). I visit bunkers, mines, huge factorys at night and this light would be great for some long range illumination.
This would make the light more useful for me, apart from being an “oversized toy” with limited practical use.
(Word of the day: would)
If you have the short tube it will work with the GT70 but it will also reduce the output as well.
No idea on when or if they will make more of them though at this point.
Texas_Ace:2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
My intentions is not really to try and squeeze out more juice, but to make sure they didn’t use that crap white rubbery thermal paste, and that the LED has got enough heatsinking behind it so that it can handle the heat. I modified my BTU Shocker into a SuperShocker over the weekend, and I was surprised at the crap thermal paste, very thin LED shelf and big unutilized gap between the LED shelf and the driver. Filling that with copper or even aluminium will help the LEDs a lot, and I was wondering how the BLF GT70 would compare.
The white thermal paste is really not that bad in my testing. When it comes to OTF lumens, it made virtually no difference. Heck with enough clamping pressure no thermal paste at all was only a few lumens behind.
Newlumen:I did the ceiling bounce tests on the blf gt lights… I use my olight sr96 and mt18 as a reference since they are measured by TA tube…
How did the olight sr96 and mt18 results compare with the TA Tube measurements??
Sorry for the misunderstanding… I measured both olight st96 and mt18vn with the TA tube… TA tube show 10500 and 10720 lumen… then I use light meter app to get the all the lux reading. That’s the only way I can get good reading on the blf gt lights…
teacher: Newlumen:I did the ceiling bounce tests on the blf gt lights… I use my olight sr96 and mt18 as a reference since they are measured by TA tube…
How did the olight sr96 and mt18 results compare with the TA Tube measurements??
Sorry for the misunderstanding… I measured both olight st96 and mt18vn with the TA tube… TA tube show 10500 and 10720 lumen… then I use light meter app to get the all the lux reading. That’s the only way I can get good reading on the blf gt lights…
Oh OK… my bad, I understand now. :+1:
Lothar: Texas_Ace:2: We are already driving the XHP70.2 quite hard as it is, more power will only give minor gains in output and a lot more stress on the LED. So the chances of killing the LED go up a lot. Personally I just leave my springs stock.
My intentions is not really to try and squeeze out more juice, but to make sure they didn’t use that crap white rubbery thermal paste, and that the LED has got enough heatsinking behind it so that it can handle the heat. I modified my BTU Shocker into a SuperShocker over the weekend, and I was surprised at the crap thermal paste, very thin LED shelf and big unutilized gap between the LED shelf and the driver. Filling that with copper or even aluminium will help the LEDs a lot, and I was wondering how the BLF GT70 would compare.
The white thermal paste is really not that bad in my testing. When it comes to OTF lumens, it made virtually no difference. Heck with enough clamping pressure no thermal paste at all was only a few lumens behind.
I think he’s referring to that white RTV silicone looking stuff that some manufacturers use and feels rubbery.
The GT (and I assume the GT70) use a proper thermal paste. It stays soft and never gets hard or rubbery.
This is from my BLF GT.