I measured at 7 meter, but an aspheric flashlight measures well at shorter distance just as well.
The Brinyte plastic lens is one of the best I have seen, and much better than any glass lens that I have encountered in various flashlights. The die image is very crisp, if the lens was imperfect you would see the imperfect focus coming from the lens part that gives different focus or chromatic abberations superimposed over the sharp die image. But you don’t see any of that.
Some recent testing with L4P’s Oslon board mafe me realise how sensitive specifically the overdriven Black Flat is for imperfect heatsinking, I really think that it is likely that something like that happened at the time.
So, having seen some interesting results from new builds with the Black Flat I just ordered my first ones. I’m thinking about putting 4 in the Sofirn Q8, any reason that won’t work? I don’t need this light to be a lumens boss, but a throwy performance might be very interesting…
They have a very small tab on the outside of each pad, positive and negative, these make up for the 2 additional “pins” so they call it a 5 pin. It mounts the same as all the XP/Nichia/Samsung 3 slot footprints. (got this on the data sheet)
If the grounded thermal pad is the only drawback, that can be dealt with. I have Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive to make a “mask” between the emitter shelf and MCPCB, I can make polycarbonate screws if need be to ensure the MCPCB doesn’t ground through the mounts. Or I can get ceramic screws. Or nylon ones, whatever. Don’t even need the screws if the MCPCB is glued down in the first place…
djozz? Only 600 lumens per Black Flat? Conservative isn’t it? Reckon I’ll find out, should have the emitters here by end of week and the Sofirn Q8 is en-route… as are new boards from Neven. Of course, the original MCPCB should work fine here…
If during curing of the thermal glue you connect led+ on the ledboard and the Q8 housing to a small power source (I use a led-tester for that), the Black Flats will light up if you have a short between ledboard and housing, so you still have time to correct before the glue is hardened.
The only danger even if the thermal pad grounds out is not having modes, same as shorting the negative lead, so it’s not really that big a deal overall anyway. Thanks though, I know to take precaution so it should work out all right. Thinking about using a similar light and putting 9 of em in.
I like the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive because it can be removed through application of heat.
What are your thoughts on this? http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/13-minus-pad-8-en
I already posted this in another thread. I bought a 0.5mm sheet of this and will be testing it in a Tool AA with an Oslon. You think it’s too thick for good thermal contact? I think with a screwed down MCPCB it should become very thin, as it’s very elastic. At least it has the same thermal conductivity as Arctic Silver 5.
You think the layer stays too thick? Because Artic Silver 5 is 9,0 W/mK and this is 8 W/mK. Don’t mix this up with the crap they put under cheapo heatsinks. Just by the description, this is some next level thermal pad. :+1: