Emisar D1S Oslon Black flat mod 340k+cd

So, any explanation ?
Is it as simple as a reflow on the stock Noctigon and voilà ?

My best guess:
A lot of non-conductive thermal paste was used and the DTP-MCPCB is just isolated from the driver by sheer luck.

Otherwise you would need an isolated MCPCB as those from led4power which use a special aluminium oxide layer to have near DTP-performance on isolated MCPCBs

Yeah I was thinking the same… Heat path is not ideal in that case :frowning:

This might be 100% wrong. But I vaguely remember someone saying that the Emisar boards have a P-FET?

Very cool build mikelights. Congrats

This might be the same emitter at Arrow for lower cost and free overnight shipping:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/luwhwqp-8m7n-ebvf46fcbb46-1/osram-opto-semiconductors

EDIT: I just read here that there are what sounds like higher binned ones at mouser and digikey, but I can't seem to find them. I can't seem to match up the manufacture's part number to the datasheet. The listed specs appear to indicated the highest light output, but also highest Vf. They are only showing max's though. So not sure about that.

EDIT2: Please disregard the struck out text. Member Nicolicous alerted in Post 31 below that this is a 5-pin package that may not be compatible with XP based.

Cool.

The Emisar lights don’t have a p-fet driver .

The explanation : the driver’s ground , isn’t connected (electrically) to the head , but only the tube is , that carries the Battery (-) .
That allows the head to be connected with Led (-) without causing issues on the driver .

Annnnnd thank you very much for that clear explanation, I couldn’t for the life of me figure how it was possible.
You couldn’t do that in, say, a C8…
Now I have to order some black flat :person_facepalming:

True about the head being isolated from battery negative. I didn’t think of that. But I wouldn’t necessarily rely on this method of isolation because if the anodization of the tube threads wears off it’s no longer isolated.

A method to isolate the MCPCB from the shelf that’s worked well for me when I was experimenting with making XD16 arrays is using narrow strips of kapton as spacers under the MCPCB. A couple small strips (~2mm x 15mm) near opposite edges of the MCPCB prevent any metal to metal contact. Put the strips on the MCPCB and use ceramic thermal paste as usual. The kapton thickness is only 50microns so it’s practically not adding any thickness to the thermal paste junction.

This is a rare occasion , since most people change battery from the tailcap side . Someone could add some (veeery little) medium strength threadlocker to be sure they won’t change battery from this side , and so it won’t wear off .

Yes but since the head isnt electrically connected to the driver I didnt need to change anything except reflow the LED.

I had to sand down the little centering ring for the led to get optimum focus and shave it out a bit to make the hole bigger so the black flat would fit, the black flat is a bit wider than the XP-L HI

simply put yes it is, I was expecting to have to isolate the MCPCB but I didn’t have to because of the isolation between the head and driver which made the build process a lot easier and quicker

Thanks! and thanks for the info I will check out that site you linked

precisely

originally I was going to use thermal epoxy on the bottom of the driver to isolate it but I didn’t need to because of the driver isolation, but my solution is not to unscrew the body from the head just use the tail cap which keeps the threads from ever getting worn down.

I made mine too some days ago , now I’m messing with the focus to get the optimal result :slight_smile:

Awesome! let me know the max cd you get out of yours I am curious how they compare

Thanks haha, it turned out awesome

That link is for “Automotive 5-Pin SMD T/R”….I don’t think it can reflow to your xpl mcbpc.

Arrow do have 2 -pin but not in stock. I got their email reply of 10 pieces for $21…. Seems good deal

Think I’ll pull the trigger soon :slight_smile: