Emisar D1S Oslon Black flat mod 340k+cd

simply put yes it is, I was expecting to have to isolate the MCPCB but I didn’t have to because of the isolation between the head and driver which made the build process a lot easier and quicker

Thanks! and thanks for the info I will check out that site you linked

precisely

originally I was going to use thermal epoxy on the bottom of the driver to isolate it but I didn’t need to because of the driver isolation, but my solution is not to unscrew the body from the head just use the tail cap which keeps the threads from ever getting worn down.

I made mine too some days ago , now I’m messing with the focus to get the optimal result :slight_smile:

Awesome! let me know the max cd you get out of yours I am curious how they compare

Thanks haha, it turned out awesome

That link is for “Automotive 5-Pin SMD T/R”….I don’t think it can reflow to your xpl mcbpc.

Arrow do have 2 -pin but not in stock. I got their email reply of 10 pieces for $21…. Seems good deal

Think I’ll pull the trigger soon :slight_smile:

That isolated head so you can use the Black Flat is already reason enough to buy a D1S. Great mod with awesome throw for such a small flashlight!

So true! Thanks and I’m glad you liked it

Nice find!!! This is great!!!..so the D1s and flat black are secretly the perfect match. I love how little spill the corona has now.

I’m still alil confused on how the head is electrically isolated. Is it simply the thick anodising emisar uses? Because I dont recall ever seeing a grommet or spacer in-between the head and body?

Definitely a match made in heaven, the thick anodization insulates the driver from the head because it’s simply push fit into the light so therefore the negative outer ring on the driver only makes contact with the body and it’s electrically isolated from the aluminum in the head, as we were saying before if you take apart the D1S from the top of the tube near the head the threads will wear off the anodizing from friction and will soon ground out to the head and ruin the connection once it wears off but you can take care of that by only unscrewing from the bottom of the tube.

Oh. Thank you Nicolicous. I scanned a datasheet, but didn't catch anything about that package. I'll add a note to my above post.

I wonder if D1 would work just as well… :slight_smile:

Oh wow just 3 or 4 days ago nearly 1000 pieces were in stock.

Pop your multimeter in continuity mode and give it a try!

It appears the 5-pin variant (if it is actually a variant. The datasheet doesn't show any other footprint) will work with XP boards.

Now to hope they are of a decent bin. Will try to attempt to measure that tonight. Never have tried to before.

That’s what I was thinking of doing next we will see how it goes

Thanks ImA4Wheelr

I noticed both footprints are the same.

I will buy 3 to testout :slight_smile:

^

You may want to hold off on that order. I'm getting lousy measurements. Higher Vf's and lower calculated lumens then both djozz and koef3 reported. Please keep in mind that my lumen calculation could be way off as I haven't really spent much time working on my integrating tube and have never measured a bare emitter. I hobbled a set up just a bit ago. So there is all kinds of potential for errors. Conversion factor derived from maukka calibration lights.

Current Vf Lux Lumens
1

3.14

364 245
2 3.49 617 415
3 3.78

814

547
4 4.04 955 642
5 4.31 1040 699

EDIT: Improved the setup up. I was losing lumens around the heatsink. I resolved that a good bit, but am still losing some lumens. My new measurements are as follows:

Current Vf Lux Lumens
1

3.14

445 305
2 3.49 763 523
3 3.78

1009

692
4 4.04 1186 813
5 4.31 1290 885