*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

I think a Base Model would be a great seller, nice idea.

Start a list :slight_smile:

Let’s complete this project before starting any spinoff lists. Too much to keep track of as it is.

agreed.

I agree with the middle section, keep it as compact as possible

The driver in its current parts has just 3mm parts height, so there can be a cavity of like 7mm max height to easily fit all the wires

so no battery carrier as its 4P
in the middle section my advise would be placing the USB in and out ports
and the switch placed on the top of the lantern, or better both top and side

agreed I would manufacture the battery tube from one piece, no hassle with drop damaged threads of the relative fragile Q8 tail cap
or do it massive to support more stability when placed on a table with like 3-4mm more diameter

I would simply make a hole in the battery PCB on the tail to allow the Tripod mount stick into it so we can get it 2 maybe 3mm shorter

If Barry can have the engineers make the battery tube as one piece with the bottom cap to make it shorter & simpler then i am good with that, as long as it don’t cost more as they already have a current template for the battery tube from the Q8, (though the lantern has a re-designed cap that is a bit thicker to allow the bottom tripod mount to be more solid) but if Barry indicates that it wont cost more to make a new one piece battery body then good. (I am guessing they would have to make a new bottom PCB with springs and mount inside from the inside correct in that case)

If the driver only needs that amount of space then i can do a quick edit of the images Barry sent me with a little more of the mid-section removed to make it shorter to send him. ( i can ask him about the ideo of a one-piece bottom & tube too.

Maybe you missed my last comment, but what do you think about making the battery tube a little bit wider, so that you could also use 20700/21700 batteries if you want maximum runtime? At the moment it looks like the battery compartment is the smallest (least diameter) part of the lantern, so that this wouldn’t make it significantly larger.

That look much better :+1:

The image shortening looks good. :slight_smile:
I agree the mid section can be shortened like that in your edited pic of the cross section, but the switch can not go in that location in the center of the top as that is the bolt location that holds the top end down in place. (and i have never liked any of the lanterns that i had/have that have a top switch for many reasons, (one being the Zanflare T1) and the plan is to have the glowing switch boot like the Q8 as a night light/firefly glow (but in amber instead of green)
Even with the shortened midsection there should be enough room for the electronic switch on the side 45 degrees around from the charge port.

I believe that opinionated design meant to suit a subset of users well rather than to more-or-less-please-everyone is just right.
Nevertheless in this context I really dislike the name. This is not any kind of ultimate light.

switch does not nessesarely need to sit in center, but my best recommondation would be that the top section gets screwed fom the driver cavity like the Q8 did, so you got no need to water proof the screw on top of the lantern and it looks cleaner

Something I just remembered… the Q8 has this problem that a good smack on the tail cap will cut power for a short while and leave the light off (MCU reset). I suspect this will be a more annoying problem with a lantern that you’re going to put down on its tail cap most of the time. IIRC, some people found that a large capacitor fixed the problem. Probably a capacitor after the diode so it does not power the main LED but my memory is a little fuzzy on that. It would be nice to make sure this is incorporated in the lantern driver so it does not suffer from the same problem. Maybe it already is… I’ve not tried to figure out the rather complex board which was posted a while back.

The aluminium “nut” for the bolt will shear in a matter of days.

Over torquing in aluminium can be done very easily also.

Interested in one or two depending on price - thanks!

I’m totally in on a minimal or simple version, too, if it ever comes about. Great for gifts, especially with built-in charging.

One thing to PLEASE be sure of, if using a low quality charger, can we try to isolate the chassis from mains voltage as best as possible? Better safe than sorry! (BigClive: Deadly camping light with 240v USB outlet. - YouTube )

And I have to agree with the switch being on the side a-la Q8, and an amber LED sounds AMAZING. Top buttons are cumbersome, especially with the lantern hanging.

@lexel, reducing the length looks great, but reduces the club feature :wink:

With this lantern, there is no danger as there is with the one linked to above. With this BLF design, I believe you simply plug in the ubiquitous micro USB cord from as if you were plugging the cord into a smartphone or other common device. There is no high voltage mains connection to the BLF light.

Yeah, not under normal circumstances, but it’s possible to toss in a zenier diode and a re-settable fuse for safety. High voltage overcomes the zenier breakdown voltage, and the current trips the re-settable fuse. Not a priority or a dealbreaker, but it seems that for $0.01 of parts, if that, there’s a potential for increased protection to the system, batteries, and the user.

ETA: Also, with the lantern being used in potentially wet locations, it makes even more sense to me to include additional protection.

I am puzzled about the concern you have… how many people have been harmed when charging their smartphone or tablet or other USB charged device?

Is there any info on the USB c charging and tint ramping? I’m really excited to see if the low tint will be all the way down to 2700k. I have a lamp by my bed with an Ikea 2700k bulb and the tint would be perfect for being easy on the eyes in a tent.

https://www.cnn.com/2017/07/18/health/teen-bathtub-electrocuted-text-trnd/index.html

And I’m more thinking of a crap quality mains-> 5V USB adapter. Again, I think this light is more likely to be used while charging than most flashlights with USB charging. Like I said, not a large concern, and not something I’m worried about happening to myself. Just seems like something that could be alleviated almost for free.

BTW @lexel, does this driver have “pass through” operation? I.e. Running the light off of USB rather than the batteries?

Although I feel this post is kind of rude, especially so close to the production process, there is still some some valid points in it. The new battery format is one of those.

Designing the lamp around 21700 could make it backward compatible for 18650 but the inverse is impossible. 3 x 21700 can reach 15000 mAh and eventually even more while using 4 of the absolute best 18650 available can deliver around 14000 mAh. Now, if we could fit 4 x 21700, the best cell actually available would make it 20000 mAh. It’s not crazy to think this number could jump near 25000 mAh within a few years.

I don’t know if there is enough room to fit 4 21700 but if yes, I think it’s something that should be really considered since using a simple sleeve to accommodate 18650 seems easy to supply and use.

EDIT: this is not a rant against the project, just my worthless 2 cents. I still have ordered 3 lantern !