6th Annual Scratch Made Light Contest - Flashy Mike's machined project

Up to now only the simple ones, like filement guide, silent fans for board and hotend. Designed and printed a small plate for the bottom of the hot end to stop the fan blowing partly onto the printed object (when using ABS). Designed and printed a simple filament roll holder since the filement string had too much tension when pulled from the holder on top of the Z-Axis.
Haven’t changed the power supply’s fan yet, since it was a too tight fit with the ordered silent 20mm fan (stock one is 15mm). Still looking for a fitting silent 60x60x15 fan with suffizient flow.

Got the green ABS for the lantern yesterday, currently searching for the best slicer settings.

Looks interesting. I considered making the cone of two parts anyway, so I could hide the glued foil around the edges with a flat plate on top.

Good luck with the build, Flashy Mike :+1: :beer:

Unfortunately I haven’t done much for this build in the last days but I got more familiar with 3D design and printing. I created my first designs with Tinkercad which is great for beginners but lacks features for advanced designers. So I downloaded Fusion360 which is more capable. As in other products of this company I had my problems with the user interface but was able to create my first design after an evening (and after lots of grumbling and google search).

To learn more about the capabilities of my printer - and in order to know what I can do in my camping lantern design - I designed and printed a couple of screws and bolts in different sizes. Turned out surprisingly well, the smallest one in this picture is M3!

First prototype of the mechanism for the rectractable reflector. The thinner component will be screwed at the top end into the reflector. Prototype is shorter than planned for the final build in order to save filament and time during testing. Perhaps I’ll add one more segment if necessary. Currently printed with PLA, probably will be made of green ABS for final build.

Can’t see 2 of the pics but looks like you’re making progress :+1:

Nice project, the first contest entry as I remember that will heavily lean on 3D printing :+1:

Which of the pics can you see? There is a green rendering, and 2 fotos with orange parts, one of the fotos with 2 separate components. I’m using google fotos for this pics and there might be a problem with links.

On my laptop I can see all the pics.

On my desktop, this is what I see:

Thanks! I guess I found the problem, all 3 pictures visible now after reload?

Yes, visible for me.

Great ideas. One of these day’s I’ll get me a 3d printer. It’ll be fun watching what you can do with yours.

Strongly recommended!
Its kind of zen watching the printer.

A better approach for the retractable reflector, I guess. This one can lock at any height and only needs about a quarter turn for locking.
The outmost tube represents the casing, so only the inner 2 tubes make the extendible part (for about 9 cm currently). The white dot in the center of the printed inner tube are the remaining threads of a printed M3 screw, made of PLA, which I broke during tests. Not unexpectedly, though.

Made progress with design. The upper half of the casing, the retractable reflector and the bottom plate are almost finished and printable, the lower half of the casing still requires some work in the inside for the electronics compartment. Here are some new renders, size of this light is 10.2 cm in diameter with a height of 5.6 cm (closed). I consider this light a pretty compact camping lantern.


It’s looking good :wink:

Updated electrical specifications:

I’ll probably use three SST-20 3000K LEDs. They should produce a nice warm illumination, so I discarded the idea of additional red LEDs. The LEDs sit in spare Convoy S2+ reflectors which I have lying around.
The switch is a reverse clicky to avoid current drain, since this light might not be used most of the year.
Driver will probably use 8 or 9 AMC 7135. The copper or aluminium plate in the middle of the lantern protrudes 3 mm, this allows a surface area of about 9 square centimeters exposed to the air. Hope this is sufficient cooling for 3 amps with this LEDs. If not I still can use less 7135.

I’m still thinking about the charging modul. I would like to use USB-C but I haven’t found a reliable source.
And I need a rubber cap for the cutout of this charging module, haven’t found any source yet. I don’t even know the proper english term for this component.

Looks great :+1:

@Flashy Mike, have you thought about using a TP5100 with a USB-c female breakout board like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-24pin-USB-C-USB-3-1-Type-C-Male-Female-Plug-Socket-Connector-SMT-type/32746969779.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.60.3468408647cjzU&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10065_10068_204_10130_318_10547_10059_10884_10548_10887_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_10618_452_10139_10307_532,searchweb201603_60,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=63115a5e-4bad-4d07-a81f-9f0988b6913c-8&algo_pvid=63115a5e-4bad-4d07-a81f-9f0988b6913c&priceBeautifyAB=0

This would work very well for charging the lantern, as it is more efficient that the TP4056, supports higher charging voltages, and would work with a USB-C female breakout board without any trouble since the current draw is predetermined.

For a rubber gasket/O-ring, I do not know though. I’ll have to do more research on the subject.

Will have a look at that, thanks!