I tried dedoming (chemical way) two of this leds, it did not go well :/
What did you use?
Sorry Jerommel, just now saw your question.
I am using Petrol( a.k.a benzin), A98 EU standard, very pure stuff, sold only in drugstores. Heated to about 45-50 dgrs.C
I can show you XML2 led dedomed with this stuff, it look like dome was never put on
I tried dedoming (chemical way) two of this leds, it did not go well :/
What did you use?
Sorry Jerommel, just now saw your question.
I am using Petrol( a.k.a benzin), A98 EU standard, very pure stuff, sold only in drugstores. Heated to about 45-50 dgrs.C
I can show you XML2 led dedomed with this stuff, it look like dome was never put on
Same here, and i used pure Toluene at some 125°C…
First i sliced / shaved the dome off, then in hot Toluene for like 12 hours total.
The remaining silicone was swollen some 20% and detached from the phosphor, but the bond wires were still stuck in there, so they broke…
So it’s even harder to dedome chemically than the SST-40.
Bummer…
Maybe just razor blade dedoming with a drilled shim? Did this to an XHP50A from multiple angles and while the flattened dome doesn't looks absolutely flat, the batsignal looks quite symmetric in zoomie flashlights, this must mean it's goodenough, I believe. This also makes sure you don't mess with the phosphors at all, something which could ruin the CRI and tint. Do not fine grit sand the dome after shaving, in my experience this ruins the bond wires.
Cheers
—
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It’s a little off topic, because i’m trying to dedome the CRI 70 5000K version, hoping to get an ‘XP-G2 killer’ LED.
So CRI and tint doesn’t really matter.
All that matters in this case is dome removal.
Yeah, i think we’ll have to settle for shaving. But the bond wires limit how close you can shave.
You do want to get as close to the die surface as possible. If you are good with a razor you can slice below the level of the bond wires for most of die while leaving the area around the bond wires thicker. It ends up looking a little like in this thread .
What's your experience dedoming XHP50As in hot fuel/white spirit? Does it mess with the phosphors?
Cheers
—
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I modded an Olight S15 Baton with the led of the OP (also obtained from Kaidomain), it is its fourth led now but this one stays in. It is making a lousy 120 lumen at highest setting (stock cool XM-L2=260lumen, note that the throw will be hardly different from stock because of the small die-size of the SST-20) but the tint is perfect. Perfect as in the absolute sense, as you can see in the colour data. Either this led does particularly nice things in a small smooth reflector, or I got lucky with a led closer to the BBL than the led tested by maukka.
Hotspot on maximum setting:
Spill just outside of the hotspot:
In none of the output settings or postion in the beam the CRI got under 97.
The hotspot that the SST-20 produces in the S15 btw is tighter than the hotspot with a 219C.
I modded an Olight S15 Baton with the led of the OP (also obtained from Kaidomain), it is its fourth led now but this one stays in. It is making a lousy 120 lumen at highest setting (stock cool XM-L2=260lumen, note that the throw will be hardly different from stock because of the small die-size of the SST-20) but the tint is perfect. Perfect as in the absolute sense, as you can see in the colour data. Either this led does particularly nice things in a small smooth reflector, or I got lucky with a led closer to the BBL than the led tested by maukka.
Hotspot on maximum setting:
Spill just outside of the hotspot:
In none of the output settings or postion in the beam the CRI got under 97.
The hotspot that the SST-20 produces in the S15 btw is tighter than the hotspot with a 219C.
Thanks for posting the test results. From the very few examples I’ve tried, putting the emitter in a reflector makes the tint yellower/greener. I’m surprised you got even better tint than tested by Maukka.
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
How do they compare in tint. I have the 3000k’s and love them. Still in doubt to try the 4000k’s.
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
How do they compare in tint. I have the 3000k’s and love them. Still in doubt to try the 4000k’s.
The 4000K on their own are quite pleasant, at least under TIR (didn’t try in a reflector).
What I really like is that they have a small die (like XP-G2) so the throw is improved compared with 219C
—
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels... So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant. Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI :-)
Yes, it's very easy to see from that graph why is better to use 3000K+5700K emitters than 4000K+5000K emitters to get ~4500K tint, first combination has much better chance to be under BBL.
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
Yes, the 2700K to 6500K tint mixing should be done with an additional set of 4000K leds in between – I tried to tell this in the BLF lantern topic weeks ago for the exact reasons, which your last figure shows.
Thanks for those helpful graphs. My quad E21A 2500k with 2× 2000k and 2× 3000k is much rosier than just 4× 2000k or 4× 3000k variants. My quad E21A 3500k with 2× 3000k and 2× 4000k is rosier than just 4× 3000k or 4× 4000k.
From my observation, comparing emitters of the same CCT, below the BBL tint does not seem to tint objects as much as above the BBL tint so white objects look whiter with below the BBL tint where as white objects look yellowish/greenish with above the BBL tint. I’m guessing this is why members here said they feel mixing CCT improves color rendering eventhough all it does is give you more below the BBL tint.
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
Yes, the 2700K to 6500K tint mixing should be done with an additional set of 4000K leds in between – I tried to tell this in the BLF lantern topic weeks ago for the exact reasons, which your last figure shows.
Has anyone tried using silicone oil to dedome?
Sorry Jerommel, just now saw your question.
I am using Petrol( a.k.a benzin), A98 EU standard, very pure stuff, sold only in drugstores. Heated to about 45-50 dgrs.C
I can show you XML2 led dedomed with this stuff, it look like dome was never put on
Same here, and i used pure Toluene at some 125°C…
First i sliced / shaved the dome off, then in hot Toluene for like 12 hours total.
The remaining silicone was swollen some 20% and detached from the phosphor, but the bond wires were still stuck in there, so they broke…
So it’s even harder to dedome chemically than the SST-40.
Bummer…
Maybe just razor blade dedoming with a drilled shim? Did this to an XHP50A from multiple angles and while the flattened dome doesn't looks absolutely flat, the batsignal looks quite symmetric in zoomie flashlights, this must mean it's goodenough, I believe. This also makes sure you don't mess with the phosphors at all, something which could ruin the CRI and tint. Do not fine grit sand the dome after shaving, in my experience this ruins the bond wires.
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
It’s a little off topic, because i’m trying to dedome the CRI 70 5000K version, hoping to get an ‘XP-G2 killer’ LED.
So CRI and tint doesn’t really matter.
All that matters in this case is dome removal.
Yeah, i think we’ll have to settle for shaving. But the bond wires limit how close you can shave.
You do want to get as close to the die surface as possible. If you are good with a razor you can slice below the level of the bond wires for most of die while leaving the area around the bond wires thicker. It ends up looking a little like in this thread .
Hmm… I seriously wonder if replacing the bond wires is easier..
What's your experience dedoming XHP50As in hot fuel/white spirit? Does it mess with the phosphors?
Cheers
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
I modded an Olight S15 Baton with the led of the OP (also obtained from Kaidomain), it is its fourth led now but this one stays in. It is making a lousy 120 lumen at highest setting (stock cool XM-L2=260lumen, note that the throw will be hardly different from stock because of the small die-size of the SST-20) but the tint is perfect. Perfect as in the absolute sense, as you can see in the colour data. Either this led does particularly nice things in a small smooth reflector, or I got lucky with a led closer to the BBL than the led tested by maukka.
Hotspot on maximum setting:
Spill just outside of the hotspot:
In none of the output settings or postion in the beam the CRI got under 97.
The hotspot that the SST-20 produces in the S15 btw is tighter than the hotspot with a 219C.
link to djozz tests
not even 0.5A, what is this 1999 djozz.
Thanks for the results, mine should be arriving this week I think. At which point all my new LEDs go in a E2L triple, only the best host ever.
Is your SST20 from Kaidomain, djozz?
Maybe, if you have access to something like surgery robot because no one has that steady hands
Yes it is from Kaidomain.
link to djozz tests
Thanks for posting the test results. From the very few examples I’ve tried, putting the emitter in a reflector makes the tint yellower/greener. I’m surprised you got even better tint than tested by Maukka.
I really like the tint of the three SST-20 I got from KD, even if it’s above the BBL.
EE X6 SST-20 4000K CUTE-3-SS optic (left) BLF Q8 XP-L HD V6 3D (right)
I initially put 4 of them in my D4, but I mainly use it indoor on lower levels…
So I replace 2 of them by some 3000K variant.
Now I have a 3500K ish beam with a nice CRI
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
How do they compare in tint. I have the 3000k’s and love them. Still in doubt to try the 4000k’s.
It is a great way to end up under the BBL, what we all love so much (but is considered as undesirable in the lighting industry).
( from: https://store.yujiintl.com/blogs/high-cri-led/revolutionary-tunable-whit... )
link to djozz tests
The 4000K on their own are quite pleasant, at least under TIR (didn’t try in a reflector).
What I really like is that they have a small die (like XP-G2) so the throw is improved compared with 219C
"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?"
My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)
My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)
My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)
M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$
Thanks for the link djozz! It explains why some experienced members tend to say that tint-mixed beams are so good.
Or you could have two greenish emitters, and as long as they are sufficiently far apart CCT wise, it’ll work as well.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1281001#comment-1281001
That's very interesting! So "average tint" is always somewhere on straight line between CCT1 and CCT2?
By using logic, it seems it's better to use two LEDs with large CCT difference, at least when below BBL is desirable.
3000K+5700K seems to be best combination for most LEDs.
I wonder what is the procedure for 3+ different CCTs?
led4power.com
With three emitters you could theoretically cover the whole triangle they create by adjusting the output.
With the Zanflare T1 and its infinitely adjustable CCT, the effect on two emitters is clear as well.
Yes, it's very easy to see from that graph why is better to use 3000K+5700K emitters than 4000K+5000K emitters to get ~4500K tint, first combination has much better chance to be under BBL.
led4power.com
Yes, the 2700K to 6500K tint mixing should be done with an additional set of 4000K leds in between – I tried to tell this in the BLF lantern topic weeks ago for the exact reasons, which your last figure shows.
Thanks for those helpful graphs. My quad E21A 2500k with 2× 2000k and 2× 3000k is much rosier than just 4× 2000k or 4× 3000k variants. My quad E21A 3500k with 2× 3000k and 2× 4000k is rosier than just 4× 3000k or 4× 4000k.
From my observation, comparing emitters of the same CCT, below the BBL tint does not seem to tint objects as much as above the BBL tint so white objects look whiter with below the BBL tint where as white objects look yellowish/greenish with above the BBL tint. I’m guessing this is why members here said they feel mixing CCT improves color rendering eventhough all it does is give you more below the BBL tint.
The perceived tint deviation must have to do with the eye/brain relative sensitivity to the different frequencies of the visible spectrum:
Source: Light Measurement @ TutorVista.com
Deleting a just published post causes the forum thread answer notification to fail. Thus, if you need to change your just published post, edit it. Thanks.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
- Yeah, but is it ultra high CRI?
Surprised to see it works like that.
But why CRI drops, it doesn't make sense?
led4power.com
Hmmm… i don’t understand that either..
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