I rather not have flats for some of the same reason(s). It makes the light look cheap, unrefined, if it is not clocked/indexed to the e-switch button. But flats can be sometimes easily indexed…… sometimes, using a piece of sand paper and a hard flat surface drag the battery tube across the sand paper to remove stock from the end(s) of the battery tube. On my DS4 even with the round tube, I wasn’t happy with the lanyard anchor point sitting at 9:00 O’clock, from the switch, so removing stock from both ends of the round tube, I moved it to line up with the switch button, in a matter of 10-15minutes of careful sanding/checking. Be warned, there can be risk’s incurred if you remove too much. Now if given the choice…I would vote NO FLATS ever! Your not saving that much weight, less machine work,cost savings possibly and a more refined look, IMO.
As an example. Do you think it was pure LUCK to get a GT mini where the flats lined up perfectly to the switch and the lanyard anchor was 180 degrees opposite…
I do a lot of indexing……I can not help myself…. :person_facepalming:
On some lights, on rare occasions, you can make a change in the settings, disconnect battery power and it might not keep the setting change. It seems to help if you go through some on/off cycles with the light before disconnecting battery power. The reasons for this is quite complicated and over my head, but we just had a long talk about it somewhere around here.
I think it’s in all versions of NarsilM so it is obviously not that big a deal.
I could maintain it instead, but I would end up rewriting it to use cleaner abstractions, and … um, I kinda already did, a year ago. That is what Anduril is — the blade Narsil reforged for a new age.
It is rare to find someone who CAN do the software stuff, PLUS knows how it effects the lights exactly, PLUS who has the time to do it, PLUS is actually willing to do it for no pay. :+1:
You have my vote if you want to take over and maintain the Narsil UI. :partying_face: