You don’t have to buy a roll of leds, there are small kits with different colors, like sampler kits, you can buy. The only down side is it comes from China, so it might take 2+ weeks for them to get in. Lexels L6 switch costs about $3 USD and can have 4 leds on it. Each led has it’s own resistor and he can match the values so all the colors are the same brightness. Here are some pictures I got from F.i.l.a.s. These are the only pictures I’ve ever seen of his L6 switch. It’s kind of new thing and not well known yet. You just run one power wire for the leds, one power wire for the switch and one ground wire to it.
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to.
Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
No, pretty much all drivers have at least one MCU controlled LED pinout (1S 3 Channel, 2S 2 Channel)
on most recent drivers I have also one pin with a resistor to vcc or 5V LDO added, so both Switch LED channels can be simply soldered to a pad and have a resistor on the driver
I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor)
LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver)
S switch
G common ground
on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like
I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
sock driver means wiring switch to battery +
if switch board do not contain a resistor you have to add one usual values 10-50k depending on brightness and LED color
It is described in post 4. old boards !{width:95%}http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/IMG_4908a.jpg! new boards !{width:95%}http://www.metronixlaser.de/bilder/flashlight/IMG_5560a.jpg! L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor) LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver) S switch G common ground on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
It is described in post 4. old boards new boards L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor) LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver) S switch G common ground on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6.
The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Do you solder the power wire for the leds to the same place on the driver board that the power wire runs too as well?
You have to define what driver you are refering to. Basically yes. If you need specifics on how to add lights to your L6 I show the process in my signature lights. Lexels latest drivers for the L6 have 2 ways to run the lights. Constant or MCU controlled.
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6. The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.
Thanks Jason, will look now at your links and see if I can do it!
Looking to order a couple drivers for my H03 please. With temp and lvp precalibrated. And I guess the short springs? Whichever spring is most commonly ordered with this driver, it’s my first time.
Hi Lexel,
I’m not sure if this was long ago asked, do you have a 21mm driver planned for use in the Sofirn C8F 21700 version? So e-switch, Narsil (Anduril?), FET+7135, no components at battery side because of thick retaining ring. A nasty feature of this host is that the rim on which the driver rests is rather wide, more than a mm (I can measure the exact width if needed), so the components should not be much further to the side than a 17mm driver.
If you can make this, I’m interested!
I ordered a 20mm e-switch driver from him for the 21700 C8F host. Not sure if it shipped yet or not but I guess we will see how it fits or what mods I need to make to get it to work when it arrives.
For C8F with 21700 I need excact measurements for the driver to make a new design, could be basically a modified 17mm one
I hope Sofirn does at least modified the head so the MCPCB gets screwed on the head, got always shorting issues with the original design as often the head cut in the wires or if not screwed on the reflector shorting to reflector
20mm might work, I can sand it bigger after cutting out from a 10×10cm board so its 21mm but copper only 20mm wide
not sure if the silkscreen of the 20mm will be a problem with the retaining ring
I have downloaded Anduril a while ago but never come to really use it as it was mostly a problem to get it work with Atmel Studio
Today I tried to download the BLF GT Anduril Hex but not found on server
Question, Is there a boost driver with Narsil firmware? I just purchased a Lumintop ODL20C that uses a XHP-35 HI Led powered by a single 26650 cell and was wondering about modding potential for this little pocket rocket.
Question, Is there a boost driver with Narsil firmware? I just purchased a Lumintop ODL20C that uses a XHP-35 HI Led powered by a single 26650 cell and was wondering about modding potential for this little pocket rocket.
Thanks!
AlexGT
AFAIK he is still working on his boost drivers getting the software side of things to work properly.
Modding potential for the ODL20C is unknown. If it has the integrated side switch on the driver (like the ODF30), then you might be screwed. You’d need to design a driver from scratch or somehow rig up a side switch.
If it has a seperate switch, you are in a better position. Unfortunately, we are still waiting for boost drivers. MTN E has released his first boost driver, but it’s a small diameter and small powered. The ODL20C needs a bigger driver with more power. Richard also hasn’t got his e-switch firmware working on them.
It may be several more months before we see any proper e-switch boost drivers. Maybe 6 months, maybe more.
Ps, you’ll probably loose the built in charging.
Personally, I would not mod the ODL20C. I would start with a Utorch UT02 for about $25 because it’s cheap and I know it has a seperate switch. Then swap the driver once we have a good boost driver available.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?
It’s highly unlikely, unless your a really good modder and electrical engineer. On the plus side, the charging board in the UT02 looks seperate. You’d need to figure out how to attach it’s wires to your aftermarket driver.
In looking up driver pics I see the UT02 might be glued. Then again, the ODL20C might be glued. My ODF30 was glued between the battery tube and head. It was a beast to get loose.
You might check if your ODL20C is glued or not.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?
It’s highly unlikely, unless your a really good modder and electrical engineer. On the plus side, the charging board in the UT02 looks seperate. You’d need to figure out how to attach it’s wires to your aftermarket driver.
In looking up driver pics I see the UT02 might be glued. Then again, the ODL20C might be glued. My ODF30 was glued between the battery tube and head. It was a beast to get loose.
You might check if your ODL20C is glued or not.
I see what you mean. It’s a pity because some of us actually want to retain the USB charging. I wish more manufacturers would integrate the USB charging into tnr battery tube like the Haikelite SC01/SC02. Thanks anyway JasonWW
—
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio
Mind if I ask what parameters you used for Anduril?
I wonder, because I’ve decided that’s what I want to flash onto the H03 drivers you’ve sent me.
I’ve been doing some research, and the closest I can find is something in the main Anduril thread where someone said “The TA uses 3 power channels, so the #define for the FW3A might work.”
So I’m assuming that’s a good starting point? Does anyone know if this still holds true?
Sorry, I know Anduril isn’t your thing and you’re just getting started in it. I just love this UI so stinking much I flashed all my compatible lights over to it already.
I need another 15mm driver with presoldered 2× 2-inch wires and a short spring. Plus a custom programming as follows. What would be the cost of this? Thank you!
you got to look in the setup files for the lights that contain the ramping table and mode sets
Ok thanks! The ramping table, as in the code that tells the driver exactly how to combine the fet and 7135 to get the correct current for each step in the ramp? I assume that changes depending on hardware config?
Sorry, this is the wrong place for this. BLF is hard to navigate through all the information.
I need another 15mm driver with presoldered 2× 2-inch wires and a short spring. Plus a custom programming as follows. What would be the cost of this? Thank you!
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio
Mind if I ask what parameters you used for Anduril?
I wonder, because I’ve decided that’s what I want to flash onto the H03 drivers you’ve sent me.
I’ve been doing some research, and the closest I can find is something in the main Anduril thread where someone said “The TA uses 3 power channels, so the #define for the FW3A might work.”
So I’m assuming that’s a good starting point? Does anyone know if this still holds true?
Sorry, I know Anduril isn’t your thing and you’re just getting started in it. I just love this UI so stinking much I flashed all my compatible lights over to it already.
If you can wait until tomorrow, I can send you my Anduril config for the H03.
In general, the ramping levels are from the FW3A while the button light things are from the D4S.
I say yes, you say no. Did I misunderstand the question? The second half of our answers are the same. I’m confused.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It is described in post 4.
old boards
new boards
L MCU controlled LED (over a resistor)
LS battery or 5V (depending where the resistor is soldered and if its 1 or 2S driver)
S switch
G common ground
on the switch board there are 2 indipendant LED positive pads you can route to L and LS as you like
I also added boards with 2 LEds in series for 2S drivers so the standby current of the LEDs can be cut in half for types with forward voltage below 2.2V
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I have the stock driver in my L6 and was hoping I could wire the led side switch to that?
sock driver means wiring switch to battery +
if switch board do not contain a resistor you have to add one usual values 10-50k depending on brightness and LED color
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Are those the stock L6 boards?
Ok, thanks Lexel!
No those are my drivers in different revisions
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Okay, this is why I ask since there are many drivers that can fit the L6.
The stock FX-30 driver has no proper output for side switch lights. On this one you have to power your switch lights from a constant power source such as the positive lead going to the LED. You also have to make sure to add a resistor to reduce the voltage. The switch light will turn on and off with the tail switch. Look at my L6 and Mini L6 links to see how I wired them. It is not too hard.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks Jason, will look now at your links and see if I can do it!
Looking to order a couple drivers for my H03 please. With temp and lvp precalibrated. And I guess the short springs? Whichever spring is most commonly ordered with this driver, it’s my first time.
Hi Lexel,
I’m not sure if this was long ago asked, do you have a 21mm driver planned for use in the Sofirn C8F 21700 version? So e-switch, Narsil (Anduril?), FET+7135, no components at battery side because of thick retaining ring. A nasty feature of this host is that the rim on which the driver rests is rather wide, more than a mm (I can measure the exact width if needed), so the components should not be much further to the side than a 17mm driver.
If you can make this, I’m interested!
link to djozz tests
Same thing as djozz too.
The C8F 21700 looks dope, and I would love a driver with it in a triple NarsilM linear+FET arrangement, or even a boost driver if possible.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Lexel does not do Anduril and has no interest in it. Sorry.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I ordered a 20mm e-switch driver from him for the 21700 C8F host. Not sure if it shipped yet or not but I guess we will see how it fits or what mods I need to make to get it to work when it arrives.
For C8F with 21700 I need excact measurements for the driver to make a new design, could be basically a modified 17mm one
I hope Sofirn does at least modified the head so the MCPCB gets screwed on the head, got always shorting issues with the original design as often the head cut in the wires or if not screwed on the reflector shorting to reflector
20mm might work, I can sand it bigger after cutting out from a 10×10cm board so its 21mm but copper only 20mm wide
not sure if the silkscreen of the 20mm will be a problem with the retaining ring
I have downloaded Anduril a while ago but never come to really use it as it was mostly a problem to get it work with Atmel Studio
Today I tried to download the BLF GT Anduril Hex but not found on server
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/
here is the latest hex files for each popular light
I worked today on Ramping IOS and Anduril and got both working to compile a hex without errors in Atmel Studio
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Goodness
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Question, Is there a boost driver with Narsil firmware? I just purchased a Lumintop ODL20C that uses a XHP-35 HI Led powered by a single 26650 cell and was wondering about modding potential for this little pocket rocket.
Thanks!
AlexGT
AFAIK he is still working on his boost drivers getting the software side of things to work properly.
Modding potential for the ODL20C is unknown. If it has the integrated side switch on the driver (like the ODF30), then you might be screwed. You’d need to design a driver from scratch or somehow rig up a side switch.
If it has a seperate switch, you are in a better position. Unfortunately, we are still waiting for boost drivers. MTN E has released his first boost driver, but it’s a small diameter and small powered. The ODL20C needs a bigger driver with more power. Richard also hasn’t got his e-switch firmware working on them.
It may be several more months before we see any proper e-switch boost drivers. Maybe 6 months, maybe more.
Ps, you’ll probably loose the built in charging.
Personally, I would not mod the ODL20C. I would start with a Utorch UT02 for about $25 because it’s cheap and I know it has a seperate switch. Then swap the driver once we have a good boost driver available.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Hi JasonWW, will it be possible to retain usb charging if one swaps the driver of the UT02?
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
It’s highly unlikely, unless your a really good modder and electrical engineer. On the plus side, the charging board in the UT02 looks seperate. You’d need to figure out how to attach it’s wires to your aftermarket driver.
In looking up driver pics I see the UT02 might be glued. Then again, the ODL20C might be glued. My ODF30 was glued between the battery tube and head. It was a beast to get loose.
You might check if your ODL20C is glued or not.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I see what you mean. It’s a pity because some of us actually want to retain the USB charging. I wish more manufacturers would integrate the USB charging into tnr battery tube like the Haikelite SC01/SC02. Thanks anyway JasonWW
Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manker MC13, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II.
Most of them have been modded! =)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39
Mind if I ask what parameters you used for Anduril?
I wonder, because I’ve decided that’s what I want to flash onto the H03 drivers you’ve sent me.
I’ve been doing some research, and the closest I can find is something in the main Anduril thread where someone said “The TA uses 3 power channels, so the #define for the FW3A might work.”
So I’m assuming that’s a good starting point? Does anyone know if this still holds true?
Sorry, I know Anduril isn’t your thing and you’re just getting started in it. I just love this UI so stinking much I flashed all my compatible lights over to it already.
FF ROT66 should be also compatible
you got to look in the setup files for the lights that contain the ramping table and mode sets
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I need another 15mm driver with presoldered 2× 2-inch wires and a short spring. Plus a custom programming as follows. What would be the cost of this? Thank you!
1. TURBO should be set at 0.002*FET (yes ~10ma)
2. custom modes:
1: 2, one7135, all7135
2: 3, one7135, all7135
3: 5, one7135, all7135
4: 6, one7135, all7135
5: 7, one7135, all7135
6: 4,6, one7135, all7135
7: 4,7, one7135, all7135
8: 5,7, one7135, all7135
9-22: default
23: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8
24: 6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13
25: 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18
26: 1,one7135,3,one7135,5,one7135,7,one7135
27: 6,all7135,10,all7135,14,all7135,18,all7135
Plus intl shipping
Thanks!
Ok thanks! The ramping table, as in the code that tells the driver exactly how to combine the fet and 7135 to get the correct current for each step in the ramp? I assume that changes depending on hardware config?
Sorry, this is the wrong place for this. BLF is hard to navigate through all the information.
Lowest step is 1/255 for FET, AMCs usually 2-3
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
If you can wait until tomorrow, I can send you my Anduril config for the H03.
In general, the ramping levels are from the FW3A while the button light things are from the D4S.
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