What did you mod today?

Cobalt is usually added to raise the “hot” hardness. They are not harder, they just maintain hardness at a higher temp, less thermal fatigue over HSS. For an example would be in production tap heads, were cycle time is critical, so they push the limits to produce more parts at a higher rate.

Nice to know. So absolutly no gain for hand cutters! Maybe if i can increase my wrist speed a few % :stuck_out_tongue:
But i am not wrong that it makes it much more brittle? The HSSE cutters i have are so delicate.

It is cheaper, less heavy and allows bezel-stand.
And its easy to fit. I have sanded it down.

There is althoug a glas lens wich will fit, but you need a printed adapter to hold it properly. Perhaps I will change it later.
First I wanted to try if it works.

The main advantage of the GT for a aspheric mod is, that the reflector-housing can be screwed from the LED-Engine. First you have enough room to set the focus to the Wavien Collar and later you can adjust the focus of the lens.

Yes of cause. I got it for the cheapest price.
Selling this one would have been easy, if you dont like it after buying. If you buy it now, you will loose money in contrast to the first prices.

Put a 4000k (xm-l2) emitter in a new V11R that I found cheap. Very nice tint and finally I have a rotary light.

Didn’t expect it, but it was one off the easiest mods. Light opened up pretty easy with some rubber and a vice.

Now to find a way to machine the tube to 18350.

Cool mod. Do you have a description of what diodes (1203 etc.) you used and where did you connect them in the flashlight?

I used 0603 leds from ebay This two colors are the only ones in my collection that could run together without using resistors to balance the output. But if you ask our electronic gurus there are maybe other leds that can work together without balance resistor (or i find a way to add resistors to the mix). I used a Lexel Driver with NarsilM. So backlightled+ connects to the switchled output (so if using battery check . . . the backlight is blinking ) and backlightled - connects to the switch groundpad (i disconnected the original switchled because i did not want to have another color on the side and because the silicone cover is precolored i could not get the color right even with changing the original led). The wires from the switch still going down on the right and the backlight wires going down on the left side of the head. So you have enough space for the wires arround the TIR to not show through the TIR.

A foil pcb (do not know the exact english name) would be great. Even smaller and with optional resistors (and if the design is right it could be a strip that you can cut into the right length. Wrap it arround your TIR Tripples. . . Cut it solder wires to it and ready. Could be something somebody can make a few bucks with (if its possible to get custom foilpcbs cheap.

The price of Flex PCBs is clearly the problem here.
The cheapest options I could find were around $100 for low volume runs. So that’s not going to happen. From what I found on forums like EEVBlog you would need to order at least 1000pcs to get acceptable prices.

Since you’ve tried it with a flex PCB, do you think a thin (0.8mm) PCB in the style of the D4S could also do the job?

It all depends on the space behind the TIR. I have not the exact measurements from the H03 (i made a paper template to cut it to size). But there is not much space if you put the leds near the top of the TIR (best effect).
If you make it small and put it ~beside the DTP board it should fit. But you see the leds directly through the TIR. So the effect is not as good. To bad we are not living in shenzhen. I saw a video on youtube with a guy building a 3,5mm hadphone jack into an new iphone. He needed also a flex pcb and went to the market (a few contacts later) he was giving them the (gerber?) files and another few days later he was getting the flex pcbs (and it was cheap!! :cry: )

Maybe i find something that workes better and is cheap. But for now i tried 0,1mm and 0,2mm copper wires (soldering everything together is a absolut pain), to use flat (like flex pcb) wires out of a car (the flat wire that is wrapped arround your steering collum and connects to the airbag in your steering wheel), to using this tiffany copperfoil on Kapton tape. So it is not the first try. And maybe someone here on BLF has a Brainfart and comes up with something that makes it work cheaper/better. … . or i see something that trippes the switch in my brain.

Triple 219C X2R

It’s already a bit beaten, because it’s my work light at the workshop

Duty scratches always look so good on lights of others. When I scratch my own I somehow never see it that way.

You could always send him one of yours to scratch up, then send back to you, no?

If they also magically turn into triples…

Cannot wait to see this!

Is it possible to share where you bought this? :slight_smile:

Also how hard was it to swap the led? Does it use 16mm mcpcb?

Arrrgh! I’m down to my last 20mm XP-L MCPCB! I ordered five more from Simon at the beginning of the month. The packet was either mis-delivered, swiped, or, more likely, I’ve lost it.

This is making it harder to decide what to mod next, since it could be two weeks before I can do another light that needs a 20mm board.

On a related note, has anyone made up a solder paste gerber for the MCPCBs in either a D4s and Q8? I want to do some emitter swaps, and I prefer to cut a mylar solder paste stencil over futzing around with paste and bonking emitters.

No it uses a tiny little MCPCB around 12mm. It’s also very thin.
I sanded down a 10mm sink pad to put a LH351D in mine.

It looks verry powerfull outside.
Nice big sqare beam.
Yesterday I met some other flashaholics on the Rudelsburg (Rudelsburg - Google Search)
I hope someone made some photos of it and add it to our album: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/saxxen-thüringen-sachsen-anhalt-4-0-rudelsburg.2288/

I bought it at fasttech with some points I had it was around 25bucks.

It indeed uses a small mcpcb. I reflowed the led on the original board. Should be fine at the max 2 amps of the light.

I did the same mod a few weeks ago with a 4000k 351D in a V11R. I sanded down a 16mm Noctigon MCPCB to fit and added a lighted tail cap.
Liked it so much I did the same mod to my V10R Ti.

Nice! I also thought about a lighted switch and to use it as a bedside light. Didn’t do it yet because of the low efficiency of the light and the small 16340 cells. Didn’t want to add parasitic drain.

Maybe I will still do it after I bored the light to fit 18350s.

Do you have a picture?