It all depends on the space behind the TIR. I have not the exact measurements from the H03 (i made a paper template to cut it to size). But there is not much space if you put the leds near the top of the TIR (best effect).
If you make it small and put it ~beside the DTP board it should fit. But you see the leds directly through the TIR. So the effect is not as good. To bad we are not living in shenzhen. I saw a video on youtube with a guy building a 3,5mm hadphone jack into an new iphone. He needed also a flex pcb and went to the market (a few contacts later) he was giving them the (gerber?) files and another few days later he was getting the flex pcbs (and it was cheap!! :cry: )
Maybe i find something that workes better and is cheap. But for now i tried 0,1mm and 0,2mm copper wires (soldering everything together is a absolut pain), to use flat (like flex pcb) wires out of a car (the flat wire that is wrapped arround your steering collum and connects to the airbag in your steering wheel), to using this tiffany copperfoil on Kapton tape. So it is not the first try. And maybe someone here on BLF has a Brainfart and comes up with something that makes it work cheaper/better. … . or i see something that trippes the switch in my brain.
Arrrgh! I’m down to my last 20mm XP-L MCPCB! I ordered five more from Simon at the beginning of the month. The packet was either mis-delivered, swiped, or, more likely, I’ve lost it.
This is making it harder to decide what to mod next, since it could be two weeks before I can do another light that needs a 20mm board.
On a related note, has anyone made up a solder paste gerber for the MCPCBs in either a D4s and Q8? I want to do some emitter swaps, and I prefer to cut a mylar solder paste stencil over futzing around with paste and bonking emitters.
I did the same mod a few weeks ago with a 4000k 351D in a V11R. I sanded down a 16mm Noctigon MCPCB to fit and added a lighted tail cap.
Liked it so much I did the same mod to my V10R Ti.
Nice! I also thought about a lighted switch and to use it as a bedside light. Didn’t do it yet because of the low efficiency of the light and the small 16340 cells. Didn’t want to add parasitic drain.
Maybe I will still do it after I bored the light to fit 18350s.
Since I put a boost driver in my Jaxman Mini C8 (M8) I took that old 2.1A driver and put it in an old S2+ light with a Seoul Viosys Z5 UV emitter and ZWB2 filter.
First world problems, I know, but the filter is so good I cant even see how good or bad I centered the LED once the pill got screwed in. I guess it’s fine cause the beam pattern looks “normal”.
Having only used the Jaxman light a few times “stock” I forgot it has strobe and beacon in the normal mode group and I think you have to bridge some of those stars on the driver to change it. Any documentation on that somewhere? It’s a 7135x6 driver from Jaxman, has 3 stars on the board. Will bookmark that for a rainy day.
Not magically, but to be honest that”s not that difficult to turn an X2R into a triple…
I now have access to a lathe at work, but you could do the same with two 3mm alu or copper washer. (16mm and 18mm)
Then you have to file the MCPCB down to 18mm and voilà
I kept the stock driver :
1/ It has to be reliable and not burn pockets, so no high power FET based driver
2/ I wanted to keep the rechargeable function
3/ It’s powerful enough for my use