If they also magically turn into triples…
Cannot wait to see this!
Is it possible to share where you bought this? 
Also how hard was it to swap the led? Does it use 16mm mcpcb?
Arrrgh! I’m down to my last 20mm XP-L MCPCB! I ordered five more from Simon at the beginning of the month. The packet was either mis-delivered, swiped, or, more likely, I’ve lost it.
This is making it harder to decide what to mod next, since it could be two weeks before I can do another light that needs a 20mm board.
On a related note, has anyone made up a solder paste gerber for the MCPCBs in either a D4s and Q8? I want to do some emitter swaps, and I prefer to cut a mylar solder paste stencil over futzing around with paste and bonking emitters.
No it uses a tiny little MCPCB around 12mm. It’s also very thin.
I sanded down a 10mm sink pad to put a LH351D in mine.
It looks verry powerfull outside.
Nice big sqare beam.
Yesterday I met some other flashaholics on the Rudelsburg (Rudelsburg - Google Search)
I hope someone made some photos of it and add it to our album: https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/saxxen-thüringen-sachsen-anhalt-4-0-rudelsburg.2288/
I bought it at fasttech with some points I had it was around 25bucks.
It indeed uses a small mcpcb. I reflowed the led on the original board. Should be fine at the max 2 amps of the light.
I did the same mod a few weeks ago with a 4000k 351D in a V11R. I sanded down a 16mm Noctigon MCPCB to fit and added a lighted tail cap.
Liked it so much I did the same mod to my V10R Ti.
Nice! I also thought about a lighted switch and to use it as a bedside light. Didn’t do it yet because of the low efficiency of the light and the small 16340 cells. Didn’t want to add parasitic drain.
Maybe I will still do it after I bored the light to fit 18350s.
Do you have a picture?
Since I put a boost driver in my Jaxman Mini C8 (M8) I took that old 2.1A driver and put it in an old S2+ light with a Seoul Viosys Z5 UV emitter and ZWB2 filter.
First world problems, I know, but the filter is so good I cant even see how good or bad I centered the LED once the pill got screwed in. I guess it’s fine cause the beam pattern looks “normal”.
Having only used the Jaxman light a few times “stock” I forgot it has strobe and beacon in the normal mode group and I think you have to bridge some of those stars on the driver to change it. Any documentation on that somewhere? It’s a 7135x6 driver from Jaxman, has 3 stars on the board. Will bookmark that for a rainy day.
Not magically, but to be honest that”s not that difficult to turn an X2R into a triple…
I now have access to a lathe at work, but you could do the same with two 3mm alu or copper washer. (16mm and 18mm)
Then you have to file the MCPCB down to 18mm and voilà
Is the driver stock or something high power pocket rocket what I’m seeing?
I kept the stock driver :
1/ It has to be reliable and not burn pockets, so no high power FET based driver
2/ I wanted to keep the rechargeable function
3/ It’s powerful enough for my use
Oh so you just wanted more flood and better tint. :+1:
Couple of tritium switch mods
And a couple of lighted switches.
Nice mods CRX! I have a weak spot for that Ultrafire zoomie, ultra-cheap for what you get, well made and they have put a lot of thought in the design, only draw-back, for the size it should house a 18350 cell.
Is that RVS light an old-school light from dx back in the days? Fandyfire perhaps?
Yeah the Ultrafire zoomie is nice, compact chubby
I modded that one for an Efest 1200mAh 16500 cell so that’s much better too but I had to hack together the lighted switch from scratch.
That’s an Aurora SH-034 stainless steel with the blue lighted tail, cheap mans sinner 
Think I bought it from Manafont maybe about seven years ago or so, one of my first lights, very well made. I’m in the process of tarting it up for sale.
Yep, Aurora it was
Some of those old lights are still in stock at dx btw, but not this Aurora.
CRX, why didn’t you show it from the start?
Amazing.