I have no idea. The pill on the OTR M3 and it’s clone is a press fit, but it has a bezel to get the reflector out.
This one, I don’t know. Has anyone ever taken one apart?
Who takes those x-ray pix of lights?
Might show if pieces are threaded or press-fit.
Alright so today I got to the point that I was ready to break stuff to find out how much force it needed to open this light. And oh boy, stuff did break.
I had to stabilize the needlenose pliers with some water pump pliers, because it started to heavily bend sideways. (it’s a Knipex btw, so ne cheap china stuff)
So I got the pill untwisted to like the last 10% and the driver popped out at that point. I could see that the needlenosepliers already dug so deep sideways into the PCB that components were removed.
Do I feel relieved now? Yes! Threw the light in the bin now and we both can rest.
P.S.: Same goes for my Lumintop Tool, there’s no way this unscrews without breaking anything. But I leave it alive for now.
depends on how much current that single cell can deliver and the design of the boost driver.
why does the bushmaster logo clearly depict a rattlesnake?
I just pull out the board with the LEDs and wire ’em up for outdoor signs, etc.
Our Australian light Paint guy stephenk ??
Yupp
Woah, this question is from 8 months ago. 
The limiting factor is driver and pcb design. The boards and components can only handle a certain amount of current before burning up.
Aftermarket boost driver builders like Lexel and Richard at MTN E can squeeze about 50 watts from them. This is roughly 6A@6v and 3A@12v. So maybe 4,000 lumen from a 70.2 with about a 15A to 16A draw on a good 26650 high drain battery.
Most of the OEMS are not pushing the limits. They tend to put out 4A to 5A at the emitter and 8A to 10A on the battery which is why we see 3,000 to 3,400 lumen most of the time.
An interesting deviation from the norm is the new Nitecore TM10K which normally does 1,000 lumen continous, but has a 6 second burst mode of 10,000 lumen! This pulls about 35A from the Samsung 48G 21700 battery. I think they built a special circuit just for this one high output mode. The battery they use is rated at 10A continous and 30A for 10 seconds.
And then we have Nitecore pushing 35A out of a 10A rated Samsung 48G with a 3,6V-12V boost driver.
Stupidly impressive, but it’s going to destroy the non replaceable cell.
Alright so I got a new driver sitting here. Need to connect the e-switch. I don’t know which cable is which. Can someone explain it to a baby how to find the correct cables?
Edit: Ground should be near 0 resistance between one cable and ground on the board right?
Edit2: Got it.
After years of "maybe not always carefull" use my old Fenix L10 stoped working.
Using vise grip i was successful at removing the top part of the head wich let me access the led but the driver's pcb doesn't move at all.
Is it glued ? Is there way to remove the driver's pcb without destroying it all ?
It helps to say what driver and what light you have.
The e-switch is just a momentary switch that connects two wires. If there are no leds on the side switch circuit then polarity does not matter. Usually one wire goes to ground and the other wire will connect to a pin on the MCU that is looking for a ground signal.
about hunting trail camera’s…
i have one and they say : ” please note that the voltage of rechargeable AA batteries (1.2V) is insufficient to power this device”
my question is of this batteries good working with this ?
if this batteries good work ,i need special this charger ? they can’t load with xtar dragon charger ?
are there battery alternatifes for hunting camera ?
greets thx for answord
Is it reasonably safe to put a protected 18650 (Sanyo NCR18650GA or LG INR18650MJ1) in a cheap USB rechargeable flashlight like the Sofirn SC31 and leave it with the USB charger cable plugged in for extended periods of time (days or weeks)? Or will i actually have to unplug the charger cable when its done charging for safety.
It should be fine. The over-voltage protection circuitry in the battery will keep it from going over 4.2 volts plus the charger itself should stop at the same voltage. The only possible issue might be that after the charger stops working it has a small drain and it could slowly discharge the battery so that after a week your battery may be dead instead of fully charged and you have to charge it all over again. This is why it’s always good to unplug it after it’s done charging.
You can verify that the charger has stopped by using those little USB voltmeter / current meters that you can buy for $5 or $10.
Would an sst-40 go into a blf a6, and would you get any output gains. If so what other mods/ parts are required?
Is there another LED that’d improve output for the blf a6?
It will fit. You need a bigger centering ring for an xml2. I don’t know if it will have higher output. I want to say yes due to its lower forward voltage, but maybe someone else can say for sure.
Thanks I hope someone can help me with a how to on this or another LED more suitable or better for the A6