My ROT66 (nichia) is from the first batch with GITD and is prone to cut off with bumps but it doesn’t bother me.
Until now I never found a true rival to an HDS with Seoul SSC P4 high CRI. The ROT66 looks green compared to the HDS which seems to show deeper or more saturated colors. Red, blue, yellow, orange, etc look better, more natural than with the Nichia 219B SW45K.
Jk skv. I know this rot66 doesn’t make over 10,000 lumen, but the tint, size, quality, and firmware make it more desirable light. we got atleast 5 people that bought 2 or more rot66 including me…
My rot66 is still stuck in oversea. Will update.
DHL was early.
The SST20 4000K has a nice tint. It looks very similar to a 219B 4000K, so I think people will be very happy with it. I personally think 4000K looks yellow, even when it’s a good 4000K tint, but a lot of people really like it. I’ll try to get some beam shots later, to see if my camera picks up anything weird.
The aux LED board is wired to BAT+ and BAT-, so it does not turn off… even while the main emitters are on. I’m hoping I might be able to convince Fireflies to attach it to the button LED pin instead, so that it can be turned on and off by the firmware. I need to test that first though. So far though, here’s what it does:
I measured standby power usage too…
Based on these numbers… The standby time, with 3x3000 mAh cells, should be anywhere from 1.5 years to 9 years.
I haven’t taken things apart yet, but that’ll happen soon.
There are three rings of aux LEDs, each with their own pot to trim brightness, so in theory it could be RGB and it could indicate voltage more precisely. I’d like if it did this instead:
Or maybe just have rings turn off as the batteries get lower…
Or something like that, anyway. There are several ways it could go. I’m not sure it can change, but if so, these are some ideas for what to do.
I have a request to the owners of ROT66. Can anyone of you screw the battery tube backwards? I have the impression that the pattern on the pipe will look nicer.
Yes you can……
Well, it’s normal. And I wanted the tube reversed
Apparently I reversed the tube when I first lubed the threads and did not notice :person_facepalming:
Hmm, however, it is not better 
It is a pity they did not do it symmetrically, because now it looks a bit like a bottle cap. Yes, I know, I’m picking on…
I’ve been keeping my ROT66 tube in the reversed orientation. I think it looks better that way, and it seems to have no effect on performance.
Jack has checked on the shipping of my lights for me. Thank you Jack.
“Status
On Its Way to USPS
September 13, 2018 at 5:05 pm
Picked Up by Shipping Partner, USPS Awaiting Item
FREMONT, CA 94538
FREMONT is a transhipment station , All US-express packages from China will head for this place and then it will be handed over to your address.
I think you will receive it in next few days
Best Regards!
Jack
SST20 10W NW 4000K CRI95 came in today. Very pleased
Has anyone or can anyone post comparative tint beam shot images for a ROT66 Emitter type: Nichia 219B-V1 R9080 versus the SST20 10W NW 4000K CRI95? THANKS!
Can you confirm whether it has Anduril installed?
This one does not have Anduril :cry:
I just got a 14x7135 model, so I haven’t sent the 14x7135 firmware yet.
I just received my Nichia ROT66 with the Aux LED’s. Beautiful light! Impressive if it can reach 1.5 to 9 years with the auxiliary LED’s illuminated as measured by ToyKeeper.
One thing I can’t get straight is the UI. I can’t seem to get into the strobe modes with any combination of clicks directly from off. I can double click to turbo, then double click to get to strobe. If I double click one more time quickly it goes to a bike mode. That is all I can access. Is this normal for this UI or is there another way to go through the strobe modes?
I assume you have NarsilM.
In ramping mode you do have to double click to go to Turbo and then give a pause and then you can double click to go to strobe. At this point you should be able to cycle through all 5 blinking modes by pressing and holding and it will go backwards through the blinky modes.
When you first go into the strobe mode you’ve got 1.2 or 1.4 seconds to click again which allows you to cycle up through the levels.
You can check out my video of strobes in ramping here.
Here’s a video of the newer NarsilM v1.2 strobe modes.
The only difference is the newer versions allow you to go past the first strobe mode back to the 5th blinky mode instead of turn off.
I check fireflies website and anduril is coming.
Well, I no matter what settings or angle I tried to photograph from, I couldn’t get my camera to show the tint differences between my 3 ROT66 accurately, so I’ll have to write out what I observed.
The 3 ROT66’s I have are:
Nichia 219B R9080 4500k
Samsung LH351D + Lee 804 Zircon Filter ~4000k
Luminus SST20 HCRI 4000k
The comparison between the ones with the Samsung and Luminus LEDs is more interesting since they share similar CCTs. The Samsung emitters have the 804 filter over them, which makes them slightly less green, and according to Maukka’s measurements, puts them at or or very slightly below the BBL. The hotspot is massive compared to the SST20, but naturally less intense.
The Luminus emitters are maybe a little above 4000k according to my subjective impressions, and are on the green side of things. The Samsung emitters might slightly be below 4000k, but look to be very much on the BBL without too much green. I personally still prefer slightly more rosiness to the tint.
The Nichia emitters make for a beam profile that’s near identical to the Luminus emitters, although I would say the transition from the edge of the hotspot to spill is slightly more sudden on the SST20 emitters compared to the 219Bs. Again, LH351Ds throw a massive hotspot by comparison (really a huge, bright corona, with a small but subtle hotspot in the middle.)
I tried to take the 804 filter from the Samsungs and put it on the ROT66 with the SST20, but it seems as though Fireflies is now gluing in the Bezels, because I couldn’t take mine off. This might be part of their solution to solving the crushed XPL HI issues. So, the best I could do was put the lens with the Filter on it over the Luminus emitters with their lens already on.
Comparing the SST20s with no filter to the LH351Ds without the filter and/or lens, their tints are extremely similar, but when shining both on wood and skin, the SST20s shows more of a rosy vibrancy. The SST20s with the 804 filter on would be very special I think.
So, if I had to list my preferences in beam pattern and tint, it would be:
1: Nichia 219B R9080 /possibly Luminus SST20 HCRI w/804
2: Samsung LH351D w/ 804
3: Luminus SST20 HCRI
4: Samsung LH351D.