Sure Kawi, as you’re aware they only ran less than a minute while I tested the few stages of build.
PM me your addy, was there anything else I was supposed to be sending that I’ve forgotten? Some Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI or something? Got a couple of Oslon Black Flats you can play with too if you want…
Edit: Just cracked it back open and checked, no wires pinched and all wires still solidly soldered. No side switch light. Not that it really matters, I’d turn it off if it was on, but it’s odd that it quit working.
That’s weird. At first I figured I must have broken something, but that’s the same file I just put on mine and it runs normally.
I wonder if the driver design was changed at some point, or if a wire may have come off. If you plug in the usbasp and clip it onto the MCU, but don’t flash it, does the switch light come on? On mine, it does.
Odd, I had 3 5700K XP-L2’s in a sealed tape with the order label accompanying them, and 2 5000K XP-L2’s in a sealed tape with their original order label accompanying them, separted in my emitter kit and clearly labeled. I put the two 5000K’s on first, opposing each other on the board, then I placed the 5700K’s on the remaining opposing pads. Re-flowed it, assembled the light.
So now, checking with a UV light, it doesn’t look like what I know it is…
It’s not really a threshold sort of thing. Small differences have a small effect, big differences have a big effect. Just try to get things as close as you can, and the effects should be small.
I have a 2-slot charger instead of 4-slot, so I can’t charge all 4 cells exactly at the same time… but as long as I do each set of 2 one after the other, on the same charger, they end up almost identical. It’s probably safer than using two different chargers, since each charger has a different termination voltage.
That pretty much narrows down the issue to firmware, unless the button LED was moved to a different pin. But probably firmware. I don’t know why it would work on mine but not on yours, though.
I should probably open a bug for this, until an explanation is found. And, for that matter, I should probably actually be using the bug tracker instead of leaving it empty. Has anyone else tried Anduril on a new Sofirn Q8?
… moments later …
In that case, maybe it is just a loose wire. Could be loose on the switch PCB where it’s harder to see, perhaps? Not sure.
TK, did you remove Beacon? The only things I can see that don’t work like I’m used to seeing from Anduril is the lighted switch and there’s no beacon. I have Candlelight, Bicycle Strobe, Party Strobe, Tactical Strobe, Lightning. Everything else I use works fine. It comes on at the top of 7135 after a battery change, it blinks once when you get power connected, ramp works fine, double click to Turbo, the Candlelight and Party Strobe adjust up and down as usual, can’t find any other issue.