Mixing and matching carriers is fine. The external dimensions, such as overall length and diameter, are exactly the same. It’s only the distance where the battery sits that has changed.
My order of these tips came in today. I’m quite disappointed. They have the same sloppy fit as my cheap tips. They also use a liner. I’ll see if the liner slides out tomorrow.
Can you guys that have snug fitting Hakko tips look to see if Hakko uses a liner in them?
So far these look like junk. No snug fit = no good heat transfer. I’ll be returning these.
I think I’ll take my iron down to a Frys Electronics store and look at their Hakko tips next week when I have a day off. They are not too expensive at $6-$7 each, but the drive is pretty far.
The NW lights are being packed this week, I got a picture of that effort yesterday. I assume that the conversion kits are also being worked on but I know they are in a time crunch before China shuts down next week for a holiday. We will see what all makes it out before that happens.
Although I would recommend trying at least one of them out first. While the fitment is a big part of it, I wrapped my old china tips with copper foil to give them a snug fit and while the solder station did read that the temperature increased faster it only soldered slightly better. The insides of the tip are simply not very good.
Even with a looser fit with my hakko tip compared to the foil wrapped china tip, the Hakko tip is night and day better.
I wish I still had the rappers for mine so I can compare them with yours. I purchased extra tips from Home Depot. They all get up to temp. BTW, I have a fake Hakko FG100 and 191 temperature sensor. They both are within a couple of degrees of each other.
I found wrappers just like mine, so that is no issue.
The reason cheap tips will never heat up well is because copper foil will only tighten the gap between the heater and sleeve. The problem is the air gap between the inner sleeve and the tip. I did a video on it here.
Searching online I found that Hakko heating elements should be 4.86-4.88 in diameter. I also read that they should not have a snug fit so as to allow for expansion. I don’t know if that is true or not.
I decided to go ahead and try one of the tips on the very light that the cheap tip could not melt. The big 30mm copper dtp xhp70.2 mcpcb in the ODF30. Maxed at 480°C the cheap tip (largest size) just could not melt it. It heated the head instead.
With this new Amazon Hakko tip I set the temperature to 450°C and it had no problems liquefying it (using a medium sized tip on top of all that). I was able to wick away all the original solder and put some fresh lead-free in and then reassemble the light. I was also able to do some spring bypasses at either 330° or 360°C (I forget). So even though the fit between the tip and the element is not snug, it seems to be working a whole lot better than those cheap tips I had.
Next time I have it out I’ll switch to the biggest tip and do some solder blobs on my 26650 cells and see how it does. The old tips took a good 5 seconds to melt the blob, when it should be more like 2 seconds.
I get 3.99-4.0 on all tips and 3.86-3.88 on the element. None of my sleeves pull out…checked my brand new spare back up Hakko iron the heating element is the same diameter. Bought all this about 4 years ago… Checked with another member and his is the same.
Thanks for the bit of good news with shipping, fingers crossed that the shipping forwarders work on weekends……especially during a weekend before a holiday Monday, I know I would have been gone on the Friday before, I’m lazy like that