Sorry i expressed it wrong. Because of the thin material of the H03 (a positiv thing for a headlamp because it makes it light) and the more Amps pulling LH351D it would get way to hot. And i would go from XM-L2 to LH351D 90CRI.
Maybe the led would not get into crispy state, but my forehead would for sure.
Wonder how much slop the springs need to take up. Else instead of using springs, use something like Belleville washers instead, whether BeCu for springiness or something else if better.
Since the driver has a brass ādonutā for contact, the cells kinda have to be button top. Different cell lengths, protected cells, thatās why the springs in the tail are critical. These large heavy duty copper based springs from Blueās group buy fit the bill nicely. I only gained 151 lumens with the bypass.
Iāll go all crazy with it when the replacement emitters arrive.
4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S, followed by re-flashing with the full-power Rampingios firmware.
I havenāt had a chance to try it at night since reflashing, but the beam is definitely less floody, which is one of the goals of this mod for. Iām hoping for a some more output, too.
I consider about 4A ideal for the SST-20 (80% of maximum output), and in the BLF Q8 (which is a low-resistent direct drive flashlight) they will certainly draw much more current. Do not do spring bypasses, and you may want to use thin ledwires (22 AWG?).
Swapped a 5600K Yuji led into an old Led Lenser keychain light and it became attractive again, so nice even that it made my keychain again after 6 years of absence.
Output on 4xAG3 button cells: 12 lumen
CCT of the spot: 5070K, on BBL
CRI: 95.3
Nice light for the price. No pill, like Convoy C8. Itās a tad smaller than a C8.
The reflector is seemingly the same size parabola, only shorter and thus a smaller diameter.
I like the simple looks of this thing.
It had a horrible driver with blinky modes and next mode memoryā¦
But i spent HOURS on this thing, and it still looks the same.
So i put a small Omten in the plastic switch housing,
Bypassed the spring too.
Different switch boot, and it can tail stand properly now.
LD25 FET CC driver, 3 Amperes, 3 modes. The low is a bit low, but i like this no BS driver.
Soldered a copper ring on it to make it 20mm diameter. Had to make that ring from a āheat spreaderā. (You know, those square 20 x 20 mm things).
Spring solder pad is a bit small, so i had to cut off some of the wide end of a tall spring to get the right size.
I bypassed it too, with a coiled silicone wire.
But, the driver cavity is 21 or 22 mm, so i added another ring, cut from a key ring, to have it work out well.
So the retainer ring didnāt tighten flush anymore, so i had to mill the battery tube front end out quite a bit to give it room.
KD 20mm copper DTP XP LED board in stead of the 28mm (?) thick aluminium XM board.
The board was glued in place with white silicone like stuff. Had to heat up the head to get it out.
The cold white XM-L2 seems genuine, but looks like first batches, with clearly visible grid of dots. It could be a fake, i donāt know.
But i put a fresh Samsung LH351D from Led4power in it now. Nice LED. :+1:
Fixed the LED board with 2 tiny screws, after flattening the shelf in the head.
Had to drill 2 tiny holes for those, plus an extra hole for the LED wires (now opposed to eachother in stead of next to eachother).
And then it worked, so i could do some focussing and ācorona managementā by trying some centring gaskets.
Finally found one that shrouds the LED by just the right amount.
Tightening the bezel, light no workyā¦ :person_facepalming:
Yeah, short circuited the LED wires with the reflectorā¦
Didnāt expect thatā¦
Re-soldered the LED wires flatter and further away from the centre, filed a little off the bottom edge or the reflector.
Re-assembled the head, and FINALLY itās done.
Yeah, nothing really exciting, just a simple C8 sized (a tad smaller) ā10 Watt 1000 lumenā flashlight, but with a nice new 90CRI LED in it.
You can tell the die is not small, because it has quite a large hotspot.
Very little tint shift. :+1:
Nice āgo toā light in all.
But MUCH more work than i anticipated, so i had to write this long post without picsā¦
It IS a nice looking host, thatās sure, and now itās a nice working light as well. Good work, sometimes the āsimpleā oneās turn into a days work but then those are the oneās youāre most proud of in the end.
Had my Tool AA modded to an Oslon Flat with DD driver, than I got too eager and tried a few tweaks and everything went downhill. It all started with dropping the glas lens. :person_facepalming: I thought to myself Iām never going to mod another light in this size again. Same evening I ordered a new one.
This is my first post but I've been browsing for a few days. I modded an SRK Digital late model clone similar to the ones found here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45280
I did a spring bypass with copper braid, upgraded from 26ga to 16 ga, mounted an IR3034B capable of 195 Amps (way overkill, but its what I had from an old mosfet box mod project), and I am running 4 solder topped rewrapped well used LG HG2s. I just wish I knew how to push more amperage, then I can attack the cooling problem.
This thing has what are supposed to be XML-T6s but they probably arent, all on an Alum MPCB. Thinking of cutting slots in the side for air flow, will post more pictures if requested of the PCB, bypass, and batteries. I estimate it to be around 3500-4000 lumens after the mods based on my phones lux meter, online conversion, and power draw. I would post images but google photos is being impossible at the moment.