What did you mod today?

Sorry i expressed it wrong. Because of the thin material of the H03 (a positiv thing for a headlamp because it makes it light) and the more Amps pulling LH351D it would get way to hot. And i would go from XM-L2 to LH351D 90CRI.
Maybe the led would not get into crispy state, but my forehead would for sure.

The Cu disc looks nice.

Wonder how much slop the springs need to take up. Else instead of using springs, use something like Belleville washers instead, whether BeCu for springiness or something else if better.

Then youse could all go crazy with it!

Since the driver has a brass ā€œdonutā€ for contact, the cells kinda have to be button top. Different cell lengths, protected cells, thatā€™s why the springs in the tail are critical. These large heavy duty copper based springs from Blueā€™s group buy fit the bill nicely. :slight_smile: I only gained 151 lumens with the bypass.

Iā€™ll go all crazy with it when the replacement emitters arrive. :wink:

Few more low Vf LEDs:

Luxeon V= 3,10V@3A,

Luxeon MZ= 2,93V@3A.

XHP35 is more efficient. E2 does > 2000 Texas Lumens while still being over 100 TLm/W. E4 should be close to 2200. LH351D is 1750.

Well, I now precised that it is the most efficient 3V 3535 LED :+1:

& Luminus SST-40 3.0v @ 3A.

More like 3.1V @ 3A : https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/46170

Datasheet numbers are for 85C Tj.

Beam shot Armytek Tiara A1 v2 XM-L2 (White) vs Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI

Firefly mode the Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI is a tad warmer than stock light

Stock LED on turbo

Samsung LH351D 5000k 90CRI on turbo

GIF

Hey TheOnlyDocc I use 14mm aluminium (i know copper is better but Im yet to find one with 3535 footprint). ā€ purchase linkā€:http://kaidomain.com/S008185-14mm-Aluminum-Base-Plate-Heatsink-Board-for-Cree-XP-E-5-pcs?search=14mm%20Aluminum%20Base%20Plate%20Heatsink%20Board%20for%20Cree%20XP-E%20

4x high-CRI 4000K SST-20 from Kaidomain into my formerly Nichia 219c D4S, followed by re-flashing with the full-power Rampingios firmware.

I havenā€™t had a chance to try it at night since reflashing, but the beam is definitely less floody, which is one of the goals of this mod for. Iā€™m hoping for a some more output, too.

Please report back, as I want to change my BLF Q8 to a SST-20 or a LH351D.

If the output is acceptable, maybe the slightly-higher CRI SST-20 will get a chance.

I consider about 4A ideal for the SST-20 (80% of maximum output), and in the BLF Q8 (which is a low-resistent direct drive flashlight) they will certainly draw much more current. Do not do spring bypasses, and you may want to use thin ledwires (22 AWG?).

Pretty much what I expected. Thanks for confirming!

Matryoshka :-) Cree XP-L HD V6 3D emitters on 20mm noctigon MCPCB
MTN 17mm driver
XP-L HD Modified 10507 Carclo optic
ARC glass
Aluminium & brass heatsink
Brass bezel & switch inserts
Forward clicky tail switch
Tritium vial in switch
Magnetic tail
Aluminium Jacket with CF inserts

Length ā€“ 78mm
Width ā€“ 25mm
Weight ā€“ 108g (with 18350 cell)
Max ā€“ 2320lmTwo piece aluminium casing is held on by friction. Simply pull it apart to reveal the inner core carbon fibre & brass flashlight.
Dyneema wound mid section.

Length ā€“ 73mm
Width ā€“ 22mm
Weight ā€“ 80g (with 18350 cell)
Max ā€“ 2320lmSibs.

.

This light was previously 18650 compatible but I shortened it and made the new aluminium casing.

Amazing idea and a stunning execution :+1:

Swapped a 5600K Yuji led into an old Led Lenser keychain light and it became attractive again, so nice even that it made my keychain again after 6 years of absence.

Output on 4xAG3 button cells: 12 lumen
CCT of the spot: 5070K, on BBL
CRI: 95.3

I modded one of these today:

It was $12.22

Nice light for the price. No pill, like Convoy C8. Itā€™s a tad smaller than a C8.
The reflector is seemingly the same size parabola, only shorter and thus a smaller diameter.
I like the simple looks of this thing.
It had a horrible driver with blinky modes and next mode memoryā€¦

But i spent HOURS on this thing, and it still looks the same. :smiley:

So i put a small Omten in the plastic switch housing,
Bypassed the spring too.
Different switch boot, and it can tail stand properly now.
LD25 FET CC driver, 3 Amperes, 3 modes. The low is a bit low, but i like this no BS driver.
Soldered a copper ring on it to make it 20mm diameter. Had to make that ring from a ā€˜heat spreaderā€™. (You know, those square 20 x 20 mm things).
Spring solder pad is a bit small, so i had to cut off some of the wide end of a tall spring to get the right size.
I bypassed it too, with a coiled silicone wire.
But, the driver cavity is 21 or 22 mm, so i added another ring, cut from a key ring, to have it work out well.
So the retainer ring didnā€™t tighten flush anymore, so i had to mill the battery tube front end out quite a bit to give it room.
KD 20mm copper DTP XP LED board in stead of the 28mm (?) thick aluminium XM board.
The board was glued in place with white silicone like stuff. Had to heat up the head to get it out.
The cold white XM-L2 seems genuine, but looks like first batches, with clearly visible grid of dots. It could be a fake, i donā€™t know.
But i put a fresh Samsung LH351D from Led4power in it now. Nice LED. :+1:
Fixed the LED board with 2 tiny screws, after flattening the shelf in the head.
Had to drill 2 tiny holes for those, plus an extra hole for the LED wires (now opposed to eachother in stead of next to eachother).
And then it worked, so i could do some focussing and ā€˜corona managementā€™ by trying some centring gaskets.
Finally found one that shrouds the LED by just the right amount.
Tightening the bezel, light no workyā€¦ :person_facepalming:
Yeah, short circuited the LED wires with the reflectorā€¦
Didnā€™t expect thatā€¦
Re-soldered the LED wires flatter and further away from the centre, filed a little off the bottom edge or the reflector.
Re-assembled the head, and FINALLY itā€™s done.

Yeah, nothing really exciting, just a simple C8 sized (a tad smaller) ā€œ10 Watt 1000 lumenā€ flashlight, but with a nice new 90CRI LED in it.
You can tell the die is not small, because it has quite a large hotspot.
Very little tint shift. :+1:
Nice ā€œgo toā€ light in all.
But MUCH more work than i anticipated, so i had to write this long post without picsā€¦

:beer:

It IS a nice looking host, thatā€™s sure, and now itā€™s a nice working light as well. Good work, sometimes the ā€œsimpleā€ oneā€™s turn into a days work but then those are the oneā€™s youā€™re most proud of in the end. :wink:

Had my Tool AA modded to an Oslon Flat with DD driver, than I got too eager and tried a few tweaks and everything went downhill. It all started with dropping the glas lens. :person_facepalming: I thought to myself Iā€™m never going to mod another light in this size again. Same evening I ordered a new one. :wink:

This is my first post but I've been browsing for a few days. I modded an SRK Digital late model clone similar to the ones found here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/45280

I did a spring bypass with copper braid, upgraded from 26ga to 16 ga, mounted an IR3034B capable of 195 Amps (way overkill, but its what I had from an old mosfet box mod project), and I am running 4 solder topped rewrapped well used LG HG2s. I just wish I knew how to push more amperage, then I can attack the cooling problem.

This thing has what are supposed to be XML-T6s but they probably arent, all on an Alum MPCB. Thinking of cutting slots in the side for air flow, will post more pictures if requested of the PCB, bypass, and batteries. I estimate it to be around 3500-4000 lumens after the mods based on my phones lux meter, online conversion, and power draw. I would post images but google photos is being impossible at the moment.