I removed the protection disc’s on my carriers and use 30Q flat tops.
with your new BLF GT*70*? These Battery Carriers are different to the older one from BLF GT (XHP35Hi). Thanks.
Yep GT70, the new carriers are shorter, I do have a extra set of the stock BLF GT 35 HI carriers, since I run 6v 2S2P carriers with a clean de-domed XHP70.2 in the BLF GT 35 now.
I sure hope this works with the flattop "30Qs" I just got in because my light should be here tomorrow or the next day. I say "30Qs" because these cells don't look like the other 30Qs I have. These still have a pink label but instead of the other markings I'm used to these just have a white label that say "IMR 18650 3000mAh 3.7V" I hope 18650batterystore.com is legit.
Ah right, the charged cells will be charging/leveling off the other batteries of lower charged state in unregulated rate and that can’t be good.
Got it, thanks!
BlueSwordM wrote:
NOOOOOO…
Never put cells in parallel in different charge states. That is really bad for the cells, as there is going to be a huge amount of current flowing only limited by the voltage difference and internal resistance of the cell, well above the maximum charging rate of 4A for the 30Qs.
I believe you can run just one carrier with batteries. Check the manual.
Of course it’s better to run 2 carries w/ equally charged batteries to split the current but it is possible with the right batteries.
I believe you can run just one carrier with batteries. Check the manual.
Of course it’s better to run 2 carries w/ equally charged batteries to split the current but it is possible with the right batteries.
Yep, it can be run with just 1 carrier loaded… no problem at all. Runtime will approximately be cut in half.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Finally, batteries all charged. What a light. Besides the intense hot spot, it has a nice spill, much more than the original. I also did a side by side comparison between the GT70 and MF04S. Both are NW. Lights are very similar in the size of spot and flood they throw, but the GT7 with 1500+ more lumen definitely dominates.
Sheesh. Just finished charging all the batteries. And that’s with all 8 charging at once lol. Ok so I turbo’d it to a structure about 250 yards away. It doesn’t light it up like I had imagined. The beam is nice and wide but I want more throw and am willing to sacrifice the spill. Do I slice off the dome?
Sheesh. Just finished charging all the batteries. And that’s with all 8 charging at once lol. Ok so I turbo’d it to a structure about 250 yards away. It doesn’t light it up like I had imagined. The beam is nice and wide but I want more throw and am willing to sacrifice the spill. Do I slice off the dome?
That is about the only thing left. Slicing it off loses maybe 15% of the lumens, but it makes the hot spot a bit smaller and more intense.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Is there any estimation of battery life for the GT70 NW with 8 cells (30Q) installed?
Sorry if this has been covered before but Google did not come back with any useful hits.
I’m debating whether to buy a faster charger (I currently have the Nitecore D4 and I’m looking at a Nitecore I8) for my batteries and if the GT70 chews them up fast enough then that might give me the excuse to go ahead with a new charger.
Officially I am not sure what the runtime will be but based on the math I am guessing several months on moon and ~1-2 hours on turbo.
Sheesh. Just finished charging all the batteries. And that’s with all 8 charging at once lol. Ok so I turbo’d it to a structure about 250 yards away. It doesn’t light it up like I had imagined. The beam is nice and wide but I want more throw and am willing to sacrifice the spill. Do I slice off the dome?
Slicing the dome should increase throw by around ~40-50% at the cost of the tint shift.
It does make it a fair amount more potent in the throw department for sure.
Maybe I should order a new LED/MCPCB to slice off the dome haha. Thanks guys. Loving it so far. This is so ridiculously large and heavy that I’m forced to use an air cushioned shoulder strap from a Nanuk case. The one that it came with is awful lol. Btw, it fits perfectly in a HF Apache 3800 hardcase with room for extra battery carriers and other small lights. $32 with a coupon.
Is there any estimation of battery life for the GT70 NW with 8 cells (30Q) installed?
Sorry if this has been covered before but Google did not come back with any useful hits.
I’m debating whether to buy a faster charger (I currently have the Nitecore D4 and I’m looking at a Nitecore I8) for my batteries and if the GT70 chews them up fast enough then that might give me the excuse to go ahead with a new charger.
Officially I am not sure what the runtime will be but based on the math I am guessing several months on moon and ~1-2 hours on turbo.
If you add up 8 × 30Q you get 6 amp hours at “12v”. On turbo it draws about 7A to 8A. If it could sustain 8A then you’d get 45 minutes of run time, but it can’t sustain that due to heat as well as voltage drop. As the voltage drops your amperage drops which extends the run time. So I think turbo would be at least an hour, not counting the cool down periods. This is just an estimation. I’m not sure when the LVP would kick in and force it to run at a lower level which would then extend run times further.
In the original GT it could be set to the 2A level and give about 2H 50 minutes with 8 × 30Q until lvp kicks in, but it would be drawing less than 2A near the end due to low voltage.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
BTW, in case you purchased the 30Q batteries with your light, there is a sticker on negative/bottom end of each cell the needs to be peeled off before use.
I didn’t know about the sticker and I thought there was something wrong with my light for well over 2mins…….very stressful 2 minutes
Enjoy!
…I was beginning to think there was something wrong with my brand-spanking new Miboxer 8 until I figured this out LOL
If you add up 8 × 30Q you get 6 amp hours at “12v”. On turbo it draws about 7A to 8A. If it could sustain 8A then you’d get 45 minutes of run time, but it can’t sustain that due to heat as well as voltage drop. As the voltage drops your amperage drops which extends the run time. So I think turbo would be at least an hour, not counting the cool down periods. This is just an estimation. I’m not sure when the LVP would kick in and force it to run at a lower level which would then extend run times further.
In the original GT it could be set to the 2A level and give about 2:50 minutes with 8 × 30Q until lvp kicks in, but it would be drawing less than 2A near the end due to low voltage.
Thanks so much for the 30Q specific information.
Yeah I can’t see having the light on at full brightness for more than minutes at a time so this light can easily last me through my outings (multiple ones even) and just charge the batteries when I get home.
If you add up 8 × 30Q you get 6 amp hours at “12v”. On turbo it draws about 7A to 8A. If it could sustain 8A then you’d get 45 minutes of run time, but it can’t sustain that due to heat as well as voltage drop. As the voltage drops your amperage drops which extends the run time. So I think turbo would be at least an hour, not counting the cool down periods. This is just an estimation. I’m not sure when the LVP would kick in and force it to run at a lower level which would then extend run times further.
In the original GT it could be set to the 2A level and give about 2:50 minutes with 8 × 30Q until lvp kicks in, but it would be drawing less than 2A near the end due to low voltage.
Thanks so much for the 30Q specific information.
Yeah I can’t see having the light on at full brightness for more than minutes at a time so this light can easily last me through my outings (multiple ones even) and just charge the batteries when I get home.
Thanks again.
I don’t know about that haha. I took my OG GT out camping with my buddy and we went out to the water at 2am and must have had that thing on turbo for an hour straight. That’s the first time I ever noticed it getting slightly warm to the touch and hearing the joints tink and pop lol. It was slightly hazy out and the effect on the water, trees, and clouds was just amazing.
Yeah I can’t see having the light on at full brightness for more than minutes at a time so this light can easily last me through my outings (multiple ones even)
If you add up 8 × 30Q you get 6 amp hours at “12v”. On turbo it draws about 7A to 8A. If it could sustain 8A then you’d get 45 minutes of run time, but it can’t sustain that due to heat as well as voltage drop. As the voltage drops your amperage drops which extends the run time. So I think turbo would be at least an hour, not counting the cool down periods. This is just an estimation. I’m not sure when the LVP would kick in and force it to run at a lower level which would then extend run times further.
In the original GT it could be set to the 2A level and give about 2:50 minutes with 8 × 30Q until lvp kicks in, but it would be drawing less than 2A near the end due to low voltage.
Thanks so much for the 30Q specific information.
Yeah I can’t see having the light on at full brightness for more than minutes at a time so this light can easily last me through my outings (multiple ones even) and just charge the batteries when I get home.
Thanks again.
I don’t know about that haha. I took my OG GT out camping with my buddy and we went out to the water at 2am and must have had that thing on turbo for an hour straight. That’s the first time I ever noticed it getting slightly warm to the touch and hearing the joints tink and pop lol. It was slightly hazy out and the effect on the water, trees, and clouds was just amazing.
That actually was why I got this light, to use it on a boat. Right now I don’t have a salt water boat (hope I will soon) and I really don’t need to use this light for long periods on the lakes and river (night fishing) I go to but I totally can see extended use of the light at max brightness on the ocean mermaid hunting!
I have a technical question about output once exiting turbo mode with a push & hold, but don’t have a way to measure output (accurately).
Maybe someone knows the settings in Narsil or has measured this already?
I noticed a push & hold, to come down out of turbo, jumps to a level noticeably lower then the top of the ramp.
TA shared that top of ramp is 50-60% output, so I’m guessing maybe 40-50% output. Does anyone know actual output % or current at this level out of turbo?
So to replicate: while in turbo, push & hold to come down from turbo. The first level jumped to is the level I am curious about.
A fast push & hold from here will bring you back up to the top of the ramp.
It is nice to have 2 hard stop locations in the ramp like this.
Also, does 2 E-switch led flashes still indicate the FET is starting to be used for output?
A big thanks to everyone involved in this project. A great light and fast GB!
I sure hope this works with the flattop "30Qs" I just got in because my light should be here tomorrow or the next day. I say "30Qs" because these cells don't look like the other 30Qs I have. These still have a pink label but instead of the other markings I'm used to these just have a white label that say "IMR 18650 3000mAh 3.7V" I hope 18650batterystore.com is legit.
You’ll need to solder blob then most likely.
Ah right, the charged cells will be charging/leveling off the other batteries of lower charged state in unregulated rate and that can’t be good.
Got it, thanks!
I believe you can run just one carrier with batteries. Check the manual.
Of course it’s better to run 2 carries w/ equally charged batteries to split the current but it is possible with the right batteries.
Blf gt70 doesnt even get warm running around 2500 lumen…
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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I got mine a couple of weeks ago. It’s a great charger.
Boycott Nike
Finally, batteries all charged. What a light. Besides the intense hot spot, it has a nice spill, much more than the original. I also did a side by side comparison between the GT70 and MF04S. Both are NW. Lights are very similar in the size of spot and flood they throw, but the GT7 with 1500+ more lumen definitely dominates.
Mine came in today in perfect condition – It’s nice but I’ll have to change the emitter for something warmer – too much glare for me.
still glad I got it.
Sheesh. Just finished charging all the batteries. And that’s with all 8 charging at once lol. Ok so I turbo’d it to a structure about 250 yards away. It doesn’t light it up like I had imagined. The beam is nice and wide but I want more throw and am willing to sacrifice the spill. Do I slice off the dome?
That is about the only thing left. Slicing it off loses maybe 15% of the lumens, but it makes the hot spot a bit smaller and more intense.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Officially I am not sure what the runtime will be but based on the math I am guessing several months on moon and ~1-2 hours on turbo.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Slicing the dome should increase throw by around ~40-50% at the cost of the tint shift.
It does make it a fair amount more potent in the throw department for sure.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
lol, Love the picture. I had a setup like that back when I was modding them…Then I sold most of them.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Maybe I should order a new LED/MCPCB to slice off the dome haha. Thanks guys. Loving it so far. This is so ridiculously large and heavy that I’m forced to use an air cushioned shoulder strap from a Nanuk case. The one that it came with is awful lol. Btw, it fits perfectly in a HF Apache 3800 hardcase with room for extra battery carriers and other small lights. $32 with a coupon.
These are not available seperately, only in a conversion kit. The leds are common, but the mcpcb is unique.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
That gives me an idea what to expect, thanks TA!!
If you add up 8 × 30Q you get 6 amp hours at “12v”. On turbo it draws about 7A to 8A. If it could sustain 8A then you’d get 45 minutes of run time, but it can’t sustain that due to heat as well as voltage drop. As the voltage drops your amperage drops which extends the run time. So I think turbo would be at least an hour, not counting the cool down periods. This is just an estimation. I’m not sure when the LVP would kick in and force it to run at a lower level which would then extend run times further.
In the original GT it could be set to the 2A level and give about 2H 50 minutes with 8 × 30Q until lvp kicks in, but it would be drawing less than 2A near the end due to low voltage.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Wouldn’t mind seeing some side by side comparisons from some of you who have the GT and gt70. Beam profile etc.
Well i got my gt yesterday and it is awesome, a lot brighter than the first gt.I just wish it had a tighter beam.
I think I’ll order a conversion kit then. Thank you.
…I was beginning to think there was something wrong with my brand-spanking new Miboxer 8 until I figured this out LOL
Thanks so much for the 30Q specific information.
Yeah I can’t see having the light on at full brightness for more than minutes at a time so this light can easily last me through my outings (multiple ones even) and just charge the batteries when I get home.
Thanks again.
I don’t know about that haha. I took my OG GT out camping with my buddy and we went out to the water at 2am and must have had that thing on turbo for an hour straight. That’s the first time I ever noticed it getting slightly warm to the touch and hearing the joints tink and pop lol. It was slightly hazy out and the effect on the water, trees, and clouds was just amazing.
About what?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Sorry I meant to quote this specifically
I never received a tracking number but my GT70 arrived today (OR, USA). Charging up the cells now!
My BLF GT70 (NW) arrived this afternoon.
Thank you! -> Texas_Ace
That actually was why I got this light, to use it on a boat. Right now I don’t have a salt water boat (hope I will soon) and I really don’t need to use this light for long periods on the lakes and river (night fishing) I go to but I totally can see extended use of the light at max brightness on the ocean mermaid hunting!
I have a technical question about output once exiting turbo mode with a push & hold, but don’t have a way to measure output (accurately).
Maybe someone knows the settings in Narsil or has measured this already?
I noticed a push & hold, to come down out of turbo, jumps to a level noticeably lower then the top of the ramp.
TA shared that top of ramp is 50-60% output, so I’m guessing maybe 40-50% output. Does anyone know actual output % or current at this level out of turbo?
So to replicate: while in turbo, push & hold to come down from turbo. The first level jumped to is the level I am curious about.
A fast push & hold from here will bring you back up to the top of the ramp.
It is nice to have 2 hard stop locations in the ramp like this.
Also, does 2 E-switch led flashes still indicate the FET is starting to be used for output?
A big thanks to everyone involved in this project. A great light and fast GB!
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