I have a technical question about output once exiting turbo mode with a push & hold, but don’t have a way to measure output (accurately).
Maybe someone knows the settings in Narsil or has measured this already?
I noticed a push & hold, to come down out of turbo, jumps to a level noticeably lower then the top of the ramp.
TA shared that top of ramp is 50-60% output, so I’m guessing maybe 40-50% output. Does anyone know actual output % or current at this level out of turbo?
So to replicate: while in turbo, push & hold to come down from turbo. The first level jumped to is the level I am curious about.
A fast push & hold from here will bring you back up to the top of the ramp.
It is nice to have 2 hard stop locations in the ramp like this.
Also, does 2 E-switch led flashes still indicate the FET is starting to be used for output?
A big thanks to everyone involved in this project. A great light and fast GB!
Yes, that is how it is supposed to work, it is a limitation of the NarsilM firmware at this time.
The top of the ramp is around 50-60% as you said (forgot exactly what I settled on). When you ramp down out of turbo it jumps down to the top of the ramp.
If you really want a 100% ramp you can re-flash the MCU to allow this.
Yes, I do believe that the 2 e-switch flashes are when the FET engages. Although, it really does not matter that much and come to think of it, I don’t remember if I updated that setting for the new ramp. So it might be off by a fraction of a second worth of ramp.
There’s no way to access 80%? I thought someone said we can go to turbo and ramp down to get to the levels between 60%-100%.
That might be for Anduril, Narsil does not support this at this time.
It was a debate but in the end it was decided that having the ramp stop at a level that was safe for long term use and basically “muggle proof” was the best overall option and I agreed with that.
In Andúril you can set the ramp max where you want. If you need ramp from moon to turbo you can set it. But if you set ramp max to 60% you can’t reach 80% any way. Just if you set ramp max to another level in ramp cfg.
So anduril does not have a turbo option to go to 100% with a double click?
Huh?
Why do you think this?
It should the same as NarsilM. You dbl clk for turbo.
Quote:
While on, a double click toggles between turbo and the memorized level. So, if you hear a noise and want full power for a moment, double click. When you’re done, double click again to return to the original brightness.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
So anduril does not have a turbo option to go to 100% with a double click?
It has double click turbo. But it is only works when the light is on. from off with a double click you jump to ramp max.
Ah, ok I get it now, that is pretty nice. What happens when you ramp down from 100% turbo with the ramp max set at say 50%?
First it jumps down to 50% and if you keep holding it ramping down to moon. You also can set moon level anywhere you want.
I made a complete Anduril UI setup and how to video:
I have a technical question about output once exiting turbo mode with a push & hold, but don’t have a way to measure output (accurately).
Maybe someone knows the settings in Narsil or has measured this already?
I noticed a push & hold, to come down out of turbo, jumps to a level noticeably lower then the top of the ramp.
TA shared that top of ramp is 50-60% output, so I’m guessing maybe 40-50% output. Does anyone know actual output % or current at this level out of turbo?
So to replicate: while in turbo, push & hold to come down from turbo. The first level jumped to is the level I am curious about.
A fast push & hold from here will bring you back up to the top of the ramp.
It is nice to have 2 hard stop locations in the ramp like this.
Also, does 2 E-switch led flashes still indicate the FET is starting to be used for output?
A big thanks to everyone involved in this project. A great light and fast GB!
Yes, that is how it is supposed to work, it is a limitation of the NarsilM firmware at this time.
The top of the ramp is around 50-60% as you said (forgot exactly what I settled on). When you ramp down out of turbo it jumps down to the top of the ramp.
If you really want a 100% ramp you can re-flash the MCU to allow this.
Yes, I do believe that the 2 e-switch flashes are when the FET engages. Although, it really does not matter that much and come to think of it, I don’t remember if I updated that setting for the new ramp. So it might be off by a fraction of a second worth of ramp.
Thanks TA! I am very happy with top of ramp around 50-60% for the reliability factor you mentioned.
I thought that coming out of turbo would put you back to the top of the ramp again. However, that is not the case on my CW version. Top of ramp is a higher level than the first level coming out of turbo. (Didn’t test on NW version yet)
It’s not an issue, I was just curious about that level and if others have noticed this too.
Great explanation and visuals on the differences between Narsil & Anduril above. I am super happy with Narsil as is. Will have to flash and play with Anduril one day soon too. Thanks to BLF, it seems flashing the MCU can be accomplished by almost anyone willing to read and learn the procedure.
First it jumps down to 50% and if you keep holding it ramping down to moon. You also can set moon level anywhere you want.
I made a complete Anduril UI setup and how to video:
Zozz, you didn’t say you reflashed the driver on that D4S. People might get confused.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
So anduril does not have a turbo option to go to 100% with a double click?
It has double click turbo. But it is only works when the light is on. from off with a double click you jump to ramp max.
Ah, ok I get it now, that is pretty nice. What happens when you ramp down from 100% turbo with the ramp max set at say 50%?
First it jumps down to 50% and if you keep holding it ramping down to moon. You also can set moon level anywhere you want.
I made a complete Anduril UI setup and how to video:
Interesting, so it does work just like Narsil in that sense.
Thanks TA! I am very happy with top of ramp around 50-60% for the reliability factor you mentioned.
I thought that coming out of turbo would put you back to the top of the ramp again. However, that is not the case on my CW version. Top of ramp is a higher level than the first level coming out of turbo. (Didn’t test on NW version yet)
It’s not an issue, I was just curious about that level and if others have noticed this too.
Great explanation and visuals on the differences between Narsil & Anduril above. I am super happy with Narsil as is. Will have to flash and play with Anduril one day soon too. Thanks to BLF, it seems flashing the MCU can be accomplished by almost anyone willing to read and learn the procedure.
Strange that it is not dropping to the top of the ramp on yours, I tested it on my light and that is how it works.
Now it does start ramping instantly, so most likely you will ramp down a little before you release the button thus giving you a slightly lower level.
Thanks TA! I am very happy with top of ramp around 50-60% for the reliability factor you mentioned.
I thought that coming out of turbo would put you back to the top of the ramp again. However, that is not the case on my CW version. Top of ramp is a higher level than the first level coming out of turbo. (Didn’t test on NW version yet)
It’s not an issue, I was just curious about that level and if others have noticed this too.
Great explanation and visuals on the differences between Narsil & Anduril above. I am super happy with Narsil as is. Will have to flash and play with Anduril one day soon too. Thanks to BLF, it seems flashing the MCU can be accomplished by almost anyone willing to read and learn the procedure.
Strange that it is not dropping to the top of the ramp on yours, I tested it on my light and that is how it works.
Now it does start ramping instantly, so most likely you will ramp down a little before you release the button thus giving you a slightly lower level.
Thanks TA. It still seems like it steps down further for me but as you said, I’m likely holding the button for too long.
Thanks again for the info on this and looking forward to the next new project from you.
My GT70 arrived today. Tracking says it left China on the 3rd, China time, and got to PA on the 4th, east coast time. That was even with an error on the shipping label. Way to go DHL.
Fantastic light. The construction looks to be flawless. The light output both in lumens and profile is far better than expected. As Texas Ace has been saying all along, it is much more useful in real life situations than the original BLF-GT. It will definitely get more use than the original but both lights have their own uses that they excel at. I can't wait to have a longer time to play with this Giggle Monster.
Many thanks to all those involved in producing this and in pushing for the 70.2 version.
My GT70 arrived today. Tracking says it left China on the 3rd, China time, and got to PA on the 4th, east coast time. That was even with an error on the shipping label. Way to go DHL.
Fantastic light. The construction looks to be flawless. The light output both in lumens and profile is far better than expected. As Texas Ace has been saying all along, it is much more useful in real life situations than the original BLF-GT. It will definitely get more use than the original but both lights have their own uses that they excel at. I can’t wait to have a longer time to play with this Giggle Monster.
Many thanks to all those involved in producing this and in pushing for the 70.2 version.
Yea.. blf gt xhp35 is not a big deal any more when you turn on the gt70… so much light.. i still like my xhp35 version for the xtreme throw..
i still like my xhp35 version for the xtreme throw..
Am I wrong, or couldn’t you dedome the xhp70.2 and get slightly more throw than the OG GT? As well as more otf lumens than the OG GT? Kind of the best of both worlds? I think this is my plan.
i still like my xhp35 version for the xtreme throw..
Am I wrong, or couldn’t you dedome the xhp70.2 and get slightly more throw than the OG GT? As well as more otf lumens than the OG GT? Kind of the best of both worlds? I think this is my plan.
You could try it.. all the people i talked to tell me xhp70.2 dedome give horrible green tint..
i still like my xhp35 version for the xtreme throw..
Am I wrong, or couldn’t you dedome the xhp70.2 and get slightly more throw than the OG GT? As well as more otf lumens than the OG GT? Kind of the best of both worlds? I think this is my plan.
You could try it.. all the people i talked to tell me xhp70.2 dedome give horrible green tint..
I don’t know about the NW version as I just received it today and want to test it out a bit before I de-dome so I can hopefully compare the tint shift but the CW version didn’t have any abhorrent tint shift to me.
I’m not overly fussy when it comes to tint except for when there is blue or a very orange/yellow tint so you may see the green that others see or are annoyed by and I could just be ignorant to it. The only time I ever thought it was greenish was when I ramped up from low on a white wall but that disappeared at the higher levels IMO which is pretty much where this light will see most use for most users so I think it to be a non issue.
All of that is moot anyway unless you have opened the sucker! I broke some strap wrenches the day I bought them. A few days later and I picked one of these bad boys up and had a bit of a struggle but it was only due to the sheer force they use to close these lights!
I find it hard to believe that kind of damage could of happened inside the padded box they are using.
Newlumen wrote:
Look like someone opened the box before you even got it.,
I agree, unless the box is in really bad condition this does appear to be a case of a customs inspection gone bad sadly.
Still, contact Leo@lumintop.com and show him, he should be able to sort it out.
If you can remove the head from the light engine (there are threads inside the 3rd fin), they could just send you a replacement light engine worst case which would be much easier.
I don’t know about the NW version as I just received it today and want to test it out a bit before I de-dome so I can hopefully compare the tint shift but the CW version didn’t have any abhorrent tint shift to me.
I’m not overly fussy when it comes to tint except for when there is blue or a very orange/yellow tint so you may see the green that others see or are annoyed by and I could just be ignorant to it. The only time I ever thought it was greenish was when I ramped up from low on a white wall but that disappeared at the higher levels IMO which is pretty much where this light will see most use for most users so I think it to be a non issue.
All of that is moot anyway unless you have opened the sucker! I broke some strap wrenches the day I bought them. A few days later and I picked one of these bad boys up and had a bit of a struggle but it was only due to the sheer force they use to close these lights!
I ordered the NW conversion kit before I realized I wanted to dedome it for max performance. If anyone can confirm the NW has worse tint shift than the CW, I could just grab a CW emitter from mtnelectronics and flow it on there. Or not, especially if the tint is only visibly shifted in the lower output levels.
Got text, light due to arrive tomorrow.. WOHO!!
Hope I can get it before I leave for the mountains at noon..
Yes, that is how it is supposed to work, it is a limitation of the NarsilM firmware at this time.
The top of the ramp is around 50-60% as you said (forgot exactly what I settled on). When you ramp down out of turbo it jumps down to the top of the ramp.
If you really want a 100% ramp you can re-flash the MCU to allow this.
Yes, I do believe that the 2 e-switch flashes are when the FET engages. Although, it really does not matter that much and come to think of it, I don’t remember if I updated that setting for the new ramp. So it might be off by a fraction of a second worth of ramp.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
There’s no way to access 80%? I thought someone said we can go to turbo and ramp down to get to the levels between 60%-100%.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
That might be for Anduril, Narsil does not support this at this time.
It was a debate but in the end it was decided that having the ramp stop at a level that was safe for long term use and basically “muggle proof” was the best overall option and I agreed with that.
Plus it makes turbo look more impressive.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
In Andúril you can set the ramp max where you want. If you need ramp from moon to turbo you can set it. But if you set ramp max to 60% you can’t reach 80% any way. Just if you set ramp max to another level in ramp cfg.
Reviews: Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
So anduril does not have a turbo option to go to 100% with a double click?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Huh?
Why do you think this?
It should the same as NarsilM. You dbl clk for turbo.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It has double click turbo. But it is only works when the light is on. from off with a double click you jump to ramp max.
Reviews: Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Ah, ok I get it now, that is pretty nice. What happens when you ramp down from 100% turbo with the ramp max set at say 50%?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
First it jumps down to 50% and if you keep holding it ramping down to moon. You also can set moon level anywhere you want.
I made a complete Anduril UI setup and how to video:
Reviews: Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Thanks TA! I am very happy with top of ramp around 50-60% for the reliability factor you mentioned.
I thought that coming out of turbo would put you back to the top of the ramp again. However, that is not the case on my CW version. Top of ramp is a higher level than the first level coming out of turbo. (Didn’t test on NW version yet)
It’s not an issue, I was just curious about that level and if others have noticed this too.
Great explanation and visuals on the differences between Narsil & Anduril above. I am super happy with Narsil as is. Will have to flash and play with Anduril one day soon too. Thanks to BLF, it seems flashing the MCU can be accomplished by almost anyone willing to read and learn the procedure.
Zozz, you didn’t say you reflashed the driver on that D4S. People might get confused.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks for the heads up!
I written it in the video description now.
Reviews: Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Interesting, so it does work just like Narsil in that sense.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Strange that it is not dropping to the top of the ramp on yours, I tested it on my light and that is how it works.
Now it does start ramping instantly, so most likely you will ramp down a little before you release the button thus giving you a slightly lower level.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks TA. It still seems like it steps down further for me but as you said, I’m likely holding the button for too long.
Thanks again for the info on this and looking forward to the next new project from you.
GT70 = IMPRESSIVE
My GT70 arrived today. Tracking says it left China on the 3rd, China time, and got to PA on the 4th, east coast time. That was even with an error on the shipping label. Way to go DHL.
Fantastic light. The construction looks to be flawless. The light output both in lumens and profile is far better than expected. As Texas Ace has been saying all along, it is much more useful in real life situations than the original BLF-GT. It will definitely get more use than the original but both lights have their own uses that they excel at. I can't wait to have a longer time to play with this Giggle Monster.
Many thanks to all those involved in producing this and in pushing for the 70.2 version.
Yea.. blf gt xhp35 is not a big deal any more when you turn on the gt70… so much light.. i still like my xhp35 version for the xtreme throw..
Am I wrong, or couldn’t you dedome the xhp70.2 and get slightly more throw than the OG GT? As well as more otf lumens than the OG GT? Kind of the best of both worlds? I think this is my plan.
You could try it.. all the people i talked to tell me xhp70.2 dedome give horrible green tint..
My BLF GT arrived today but it was damaged in a way that I cant use it. Should I PM the OP?
https://imgur.com/a/XZfxsjr
Wow, that is really odd for a DHL box. You would need to contact Leo or Neal next week when they get back to work from the holidays.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I assume you mean upcoming Monday?
I don’t know about the NW version as I just received it today and want to test it out a bit before I de-dome so I can hopefully compare the tint shift but the CW version didn’t have any abhorrent tint shift to me.
I’m not overly fussy when it comes to tint except for when there is blue or a very orange/yellow tint so you may see the green that others see or are annoyed by and I could just be ignorant to it. The only time I ever thought it was greenish was when I ramped up from low on a white wall but that disappeared at the higher levels IMO which is pretty much where this light will see most use for most users so I think it to be a non issue.
All of that is moot anyway unless you have opened the sucker! I broke some strap wrenches the day I bought them. A few days later and I picked one of these bad boys up and had a bit of a struggle but it was only due to the sheer force they use to close these lights!
https://www.ridgid.com/au/en/straplock-pipe-handle
Yes. Oct 1-5 is a holiday, so expect a response after the 7th.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Cheers!
Found my GT70, DHL left it 5 houses down the road in the garden.
Light is fine, looks pretty impressive too
Look like someone opened the box before you even got it.,
Wow, that is really strange. Was the box damaged?
I find it hard to believe that kind of damage could of happened inside the padded box they are using.
I agree, unless the box is in really bad condition this does appear to be a case of a customs inspection gone bad sadly.
Still, contact Leo@lumintop.com and show him, he should be able to sort it out.
If you can remove the head from the light engine (there are threads inside the 3rd fin), they could just send you a replacement light engine worst case which would be much easier.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I ordered the NW conversion kit before I realized I wanted to dedome it for max performance. If anyone can confirm the NW has worse tint shift than the CW, I could just grab a CW emitter from mtnelectronics and flow it on there. Or not, especially if the tint is only visibly shifted in the lower output levels.
I agree it’s crazy hard to get that head off!
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