[Review] Olight S1R Baton II

Yay!

I have also found that cleaning out excess oil from the threads, tailcap, head and driver, on my lights makes them more reliable. My Maratac AAA will skip modes if I let too much lube build up.

I also found my Novatac tailswitch became more reliable when I cleaned out all the thread lube and started over.

I think I wanted to give them too much Love. I still use the lube, but I wipe it off the end of the body tube, and I wipe out the inside threads and contacts… things are still lubricated, just not too much.

I use this stuff, it was recommended by darksucks, when I got a copper Beta

thanks for the recommendation.

I did a bit of cleaning, and now the original battery drops 0.45V at first turbo (600 lumens) and 0.7V at full turbo with a fully charged battery 5 seconds after going to turbo.

Also measured with a new (different?) battery that has been sitting in the refrigerator (not the one for sale) and measured it as the first. Basically I saw about 0.1V lower on both turbo modes compared to the first test. Now I am questioning if I already swapped batteries and had the newer one in the light. Guess it does not really matter, IIWII. Now I know which is a better performer at high output. My charger suggested that with the ESR readings it provided.

I notice that Olight UK also has the 25% off offer today £41.24 so will be fighting temptation all day :slight_smile:

Same here in the US, 25% off one, or 30% of 2 or more.

Received my Olight S1R BATON II today and surprise, the battery is marked:

ORB-163C05-10C
FIT FOR S1R BATON II
HIGH PERFORMANCE IMR BATTERY WITH
OVER-CHARGE, OVER-HEAT PROTECTION,
AND EXPLOSION PROTECTION

The new wording on this battery does not specifically mention a circuit board or use the word “overdischarge” and is certainly curious. The outer shell is essentially the same length as the older protected ORB-163C05 and ORB-163C06 batteries, and it has the same “bulge” on the “positive” end to accommodate a protection PCB as those batteries have.

I haven’t tested its behavior yet, but one thing to be aware of in doing so is that not all protected batteries have to trip and latch/stay at zero volts when their protection circuit is actuated (sometimes requiring bootstrapping or charging in a “special” charger to reset the protection PCB). The tripping behavior is merely a choice made by the circuit designer. There’s no reason a tripped battery can’t provide its seriously depleted voltage to its terminals for reading by a relatively high input resistance DMM, yet not supply any significant output to a real load if called on to do so if that’s the way it was designed. Some protected batteries can be reset/restored if merely presented with a voltage higher than a specific threshold (doable in just about any CC/CV charger), while others may require a special reset routine that may or may not involve genuflecting and making symbolic gestures and/or the uttering of oaths.

It also appears that the proprietary plastic ring on the “positive” end of the ORB-16C05-10C that prevents it from being charged in many (but probably not all) stand alone chargers can be easily be defeated by popping a 6 mm/1/4 inch neodymium magnet onto the center terminal (AS LONG AS ONE IS CAREFUL INSERTING IT INTO/REMOVING IT FROM THE CHARGER).

I’m probably not going to unwrap one of these new batteries to find out what’s really inside until one gets old and weak.

So the confusion about Olight RCR123A battery protection continues…

my local distributor just received their stock of ORB-16C05-10C, bought 2 as spares. I was waiting to get my hands on these spares as backup to start verifying runtime on the lowest mode of 0.5 lumen. I'm basically in the opinion that doing this test has detrimental effects to the battery...

will report back in a week or two of the test results... stay tuned... ;)

Well, the result is in.
Having to report this now after just a week... well, you guessed it, it's ~8 days 11 hours.
Starting Voltage: 4.20V
Ending Voltage: 2.48V

Oh, one more thing, the battery level indicator at the switch button light up in RED when light cuts off.

Thank you rookiedaddy!! That is quite impressive, but the 15 days mentioned on specs are another half way almost… So, I guess the 15 days are just an estimation, right? Am I reading this data correctly?

EDIT: Sorry, I saw a the data of the S1R Baton “I” that would last 15 days on the mode 5 = 0.5 Lumens!
I apologize for the confusion :person_facepalming:

I woke up this morning to a new set of S1R Baton II line-up... sharing a few pictures from Olight...

yeah, the Winter edition is warm white... now that's fitting...

They’ve got a teaser page on their website(s) now:

https://www.olightstore.com/led-flashlights/olight-s1r-ii-ti

I wonder if they’ll have a flash sale on the Winter?

It would take a heck of a sale, and winning the lottery for me to spring for a “kit”:

https://www.olightstore.com/led-flashlights/olight-s1r-ii-ti-kit

Are these gonna be rechargeable too? None of the pictures show the tail.

They are :wink: In OlightWorld video (youtube) it can be seen the charging “button” in the bottom of the winter version (at least)!!

Winter is coming… at least in my mailbox :-p

Just bought my Warm Winter…

Pairing it with AloxSilverVic…

now that’s A Match Made on Earth…

Comparing to the surface of sand-blasted S Mini

and the tint…

is as beautiful as this yellow rose…

I was surprised by Olight today… wow!

:heart_eyes:

Darn you rookiedaddy, I thought I was done with my Christmas shopping.
That is if they offer this one. Sweet light!

It ordered Spring (NW) and Winter (WW) and winter arrived today.

It is a great little light, but I cannot get myself to order autumn and summer. The Gold is just over the top and a CW emitter is not really for me and I don’t wanna have to mod an 80€ light, just to like it.
The rainbow titanium anodisation however is a must . but seems stuck in customs… so it will probably arrive after Christmas.

The Friendship blue looks really nice too and is a great idea of Olight to thank all their reviewers.
They are making great lights but they need people to tell others about it, and great reviews are a lot of work.
A really nice gesture.

Guess I’m not a friend huh ?
JK, nice one man !

HELLO!
Has anyone tried to build a charging dock and cap or something similar?

I think it would require some sort of diode to prevent shorting but that starts a range of issues regarding voltage and so on.

Has anyone even thought of building a charging port on a flashlight like Convoy?

I started making some drawings and measurements for Nitecore EC11, maybe cut a charging dock in the tailcap.