I have some batteries with much worse dents and they work fine over a year. This should be no problem if it is charging well and works fine.
Okay, thanks.
I may buy a Samsung 30T, 40T and 50E just to try them out.
Me too….Specially the 20700-21700’s My Sofirn battery is slightly dented dead center on the cathode side, the anode side is collapsed a bit.
Be careful swapping out the FET… the masking isn’t the greatest…. tried putting a SIR404 on the stock driver. Should of just snipped the legs and then with a small solder tip to remove the remains. Tossed the stock driver and went with the D4v.2 with a Infineon FET 20awg leads… now she’s putting out! :+1:
Okay, so we still don’t know why the output is so low?
I think the led wires pretty thin and long.
I will replace them with 18 AWG wires and see what it boost. If that didn’t help much I will try the fet replacement.
But mine does 3100 lumens stock so I don’t know if it jumps a lot.
Yep…I would go with the SIR800 instead…I could send you a couple…
This one will fit even though the exterior is different, no legs?
I can buy from MTN, thanks anyway.
Yes If it says LFPAK56 also. That describes the footprint and casing.
Both top of ramp and dbl clk turbo are the same.
I measure 33kcd or 363 meters.
A good mix of flood and throw and great for walking around at night.
Those lumen numbers seem about right. I think I got 2800 lumens with the 30T at 1s but too lazy to charge and test again. Thanks for the tear down pics.
My C8F arrived about a week ago - also a long time enroute. No damage or dents to the already installed battery. The battery is a Sofirn labeled 21700 claiming 4000 mAh and 40A. After fully charging at a rate of 1.0 amp I ran the light until the battery fell just below 3.0v then fully recharged the battery to 4.2v. It took 4127mAh. I like the light but initially found the UI more confusing than most. Getting to the ramping group (not its default) took several tries. Pocketable in an overcoat or windbreak. A good blend of throw and peripheral light. Weighs a little more than a half pound (264g) with battery. Nice solid feel. Balances perfectly on my forefinger. Good heat management.
Phase 1 of my switch mod is complete. Converting the boot to a clear one. No one seems to make a clear version in the right size. It’s 14mm wide at the base, 11mm wide at the bezel and 4mm tall. I was able to trim a cover from a Convoy L6. It fits!
It sort of fits!
It sits about 3mm higher actually, but it works really well and I can find the switch a lot easier.
Phase 2 is making an led stay on all the time, like I did with my other lights, but still keeping the battery indicator function.
Ps, Sofirn has commented that it is the FET on the driver that is causing the reduced performance. If your light is making under 3,000 lumen with the 21700 battery you can contact them through a PM about getting a replacement driver.
Nice switch mod JasonWW. Much more visible from the side. Having the LED stay on all the time will be a big plus. I appreciate your posts.
Thanks :+1:
I just got some new FETs from MTN today and swapped it out.
New and old.
I gained 2A more at the tail and 350 more lumens @30s. There is a more instant jump to Turbo as well (Edit: There is still a little bit of ramp up, but it’s less noticable). I left the stock led wires.
So tail amperage went from 7.15A to 9.2A and lumens from 2,560 to 2900. I could probably get more output by replacing the led wires with 18ga, but this is fine for now.
I also ordered a Samsung 30T and a 50E so we will see how these perform.
Thanks for sharing the data. Did you also request a revised driver from Sofirn?
Yes. I did not know if I would succeed with the hot air swap. I might have accidently blown tiny resisters right off the board! 
Luckily, everything went smoothly.
I had my air flow at the lowest setting and added flux around the edges. I tried 300*C, but it wasn’t enough. 340*C got the job done. I brought the temps up slowly so my old FET is probably still good. Once removed, I wicked all the old solder away and the pads looked fine. Added flux and put fresh leaded solder on the pads. Added a bit more flux and set the new FET into place. I heated everything up slowly then focused the heat on the FET. It dropped into place and I pressed down on it to squeeze out any excess solder. I’m glad to see that the hot air gun in my soldering station works so well.
Maybe use this hot plate might make it safer and easier?
How has it worked for you?
I can probably get by with blowing hot air on the bottom of the mcpcb. I don’t see a need in buying yet another specialty device just for leds that I might do one per year.