Hi. It is. It outputs ~8.4V.
In fact it did not stop while operating. I turned it off and after some time, I tried but it would not turn on. No burnt smell.
After turning it off, I pressed the switch a few times to check its feedback. That’s why I thought that I may have locked it somehow.
If the above is not the case, then it could be driver or switch board damage.
Is there any other click combination that I can try?
IIRC, doesn’t the switch light turn on whenever battery power is connected? When you connect the battery, it stays off?
I can’t think of anything easy to check without pulling the driver out. Do you want to take it apart or do you want to see if you can get it repaired or fixed under warranty?
You can check the MOSFET on the driver to see if it looks okay. I remember someone bypassing the springs and the FET Haikelite uses could not handle the current and burned up. This might have been on a MT09R which has the same basic driver.
Normally it does, but in my case it does not anymore. It stays off.
I will take it apart tonight when I’ll have access to my tools and I will report back.
You still remember which UI settings are you using?
4x clicks is for ramping mode lock out, whereas "double click + press&hold" is for "alternate mode sets (step)".
The MOSFET and the driver in general, look OK. Neither signs nor smell of burnt components.
I will take a picture under good lighting conditions tomorrow and I’ll upload it.
Ramping, but it should exit the lock-out mode whenever I unscrew the head and this is not the case.
Something is wrong either with the driver or with the switch board.
You can put your DMM on the driver pads where the switch makes contact and see if you get continuity when you press the switch.
Since the switch led is not working, I’m betting the driver has lost power.
I tested the switch and I get continuity. It is the driver.
Maybe Texas_Ace can shed some light.
Very strange issue that it would die completely like that. The switch LED should at least light up if the MCU is getting power.
The most likely candidates would be the LDO, R5 resistor or the MCU itself dying.
If you can, check for V+ at both sides of the R5 resistor, if that checks out, then check the voltage at the first “Test” pad above the yellow wire. It should be 5v.
If all of that checks out then the voltage is making it to the MCU so either it is a ground issue or the MCU died somehow. Very strange if that happened, only had an MCU randomly die a few times over the years in a working light.
Hi. It was ridiculous.
After detaching the board to test it, I realised that the spring was not making contact.
Now I have another issue.
While soldering the cables back, the switch V+ metal contact was detached from the board.
It is still connected to the thin, onboard, wire.
Can I take switch V+ from somewhere else on the driver?
Thanks.
On these Texas Avenger drivers, pin 7 Pin 2 on the MCU is always the trigger looking for ground.
You can either attach the switch positive to pin 7 Pin 2 or scratch the coating off next to the original pad that lifted and attach there.
You might have been using too much heat on your iron.
I used some two-ingredient epoxy glue (180 Celsius max) to reattach the pad.
When it dries, I will try to solder the cable very quickly. If this fails I’ll use pin 7.
I will also lower the iron heat.
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it! 
Jason is correct but he got the MCU backwards, I flipped the MCU over for this driver, pin 7 is on the other side which he did not know about:
You have it connected to the FET output right now.
Hi and thanks!
The first attempt was a fail and the pad was completely detached.
The second attempt (pin 7) was also a fail and now I know why.
The third attempt was a success. I removed the coating right after the pad and soldered it there.
I also used a small amount of epoxy resin to stick the cable to the board, right after the connection, in order to secure it.
Finally, I have contacted Lexel for a replacement driver to have it as a spare.
By the way, can someone suggest me a good budget adjustable temperature soldering iron/station?
Yes.
I’m currently using this one:
Using these tips:
It works really well for all jobs. It’s actually quite a good soldering iron, and after calibrating the temperature, it is actually quite accurate.
If you want a step up in terms of heating time and handling, as I’ve actually bought one for a friend, and tested it:
You can also install open source firmware on it, and use battery packs for portability.
Tips(I would recommend the TS-D24, as it is a fat flat tip, very useful for connections and most soldering jobs):
I was looking at MINI TS100 when you replied.
I am currently using this.
It does the job but the temperature regulator seems to be inaccurate.
Will PX-988 make a difference or better go for MINI TS100 when my budget allows it?
Yes, it will make a very nice difference.
It’s like going from an Ultrafire 10$ light to a Convoy C8. A nice difference for not so much money.
While going from the one you have to a TS100 will be like going from that Ultrafire 10$ light to a Emisar D1S. A completely different level.
Both are great soldering irons though. The PX-988 is a very nice iron, and the TS100 is a step up from that, having better firmware, faster heat up time, better handling.
Get the TS-100 if your future budget allows it, along with a flat fat tip. Otherwise, just go with the PX-988.
OK, thanks!
Interested depending on price. White 70.2 NW please. Thank you.
Isn’t that the little circle in the top left that indicates pin 1? I’m definitely confused.
Every time I see this chip the little circle that indicates pin one is always on the bottom left corner as you are reading the lettering on the chip.
I honestly get confused with that dot as well and kinda gave up keeping track of the pin numbers using it some time ago. Now I just look at the schematic to see which pin goes where and use the technical pin names for figuring out the connections.