If you want 4000K 90CRI: led4power.com - got mine there
If you want 5k 90CRI you can get some DOG FARTS from here:
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics
Also, less desirable but tons of selection:
Split a 50 euro order (free shipping minimum) with someone and choose multiple CCT’s from a large digikey selection. They have 18 different bin/color choices (check datasheet for models cause not all are categorized properly):
I feel your pain djozz. Sometimes nothing goes right, other days unbelievably fluid.
CRX says it true, just the way it is…
Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.
Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.
A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.
Some observations:
- All 4 wires have to be pulled through the middle hole then soldered from the top through the adjacent holes
- I dont think it’s possible to sit 100% flat where the LED wires solder to MCPCB, just too little room and your solder blob will slightly raise the middle. I still screwed it down pretty tight on all 4 ends but the board is flexing slightly on the outsides
- I guess because of the potentiometers only the “high” and beacon aux settings work, then you just adjust it using the 3 pots
Wow, Carnival time! 
Very nice mod contactcr. :heart_eyes:
And just for Dale I think changing from red to white aux board probably gained like 25 lumens easy.
Lol, thanks for that contactcr, appreciate it. Back to the Highway Supplies Dept for that reflective white paint…
- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
- driver can not be flashed when Aux board soldered as its a cap on a programming pin for the LDO
Looks nice, like the purple :+1:
How many lumens these DOG FARTS capable to squeeze out in direct drive? I want to replace Nichia leds in a ROT66 for more output but maintain good CRI.
If I like them maybe use them in other multi emitter lights as well.
Took step one for a mod, inspired by the High CRI host discussion.
- Emisar D4 with 10623 optics
- Status: Ordered from Hank (full flashlight, no option to buy just the host)
- Quad Nichia Optisolis 5000k
- Ordered from Clemence
- Custom 5+2+1+M eSwitch driver
- Thanks to:
- Del and Texas Ace for their 7135+Fet driver
- Lexel for the BLF programming key
- Components are ready
- PCB is ordered
- Firmware TBD
- Based on Anduril
- 5+2+1 part is easy (3 CH driver like the FW3A)
- +M will be an even lower moon mode (~1mA) instead of just pulsing the single 7135 at 1/255 PWM
- Thanks to:
cool mod, zeroflow! Looking forward to the progress.
I need this for my D4S. Looks amazing!
Looks very interesting!
And Copper Tube Light IIII 
kiriba-ru C8TT triple heatsink head build
Since kiriba-ru’s C8TT head is so unique I wanted unique parts to go with it. I opted for the highest CRI and highest lumens I could manage. LED4Power’s parts were the obvious choice, constant current + FET + moon + temp + good UI. I don’t think either of these guys get enough credit for the awesome stuff they produce.
- LD-B4 (12A CC linear driver) from LED4Power
- 4040 MosX board w/ FET & NTC
- 2x Luxeon MZ 3000K (>90CRI) + 2x Luxeon MZ 5700K (>90CRI)
- LEDiL CUTE-4 optics
- 20G wires throughout + bypasses
Brief tests & observations:
12 Amp Constant Current mode:
- ~2,590lm @@ 30s - VTC6 at 4.xx volts
Direct Drive FET (pulling 28.xx Amps!!):
- ~5,142lm @@ 0s - VTC5A
- ~5,112lm @@ 0s - Samsung 25S
It’s nuts this thing can suck up almost 30 amps from a single 18650 and still be >90CRI light
Pictures:
Reflow prep station, triple check your datasheets for anode + cathode time, thaw some 63/37
I saw on the datasheet a 7” steel crepe pan was recommended. Yes I seasoned it, no I don’t use it for food. ($14 Amazon)
Too much solder paste, story of my life. Plz suck up a bunch when it gets to temp ::crossing fingers::
OK, I can work with that. Must be magic… For anyone questioning if you can do this. YOU CAN, it’s night and day obvious that it’s basically aligned and melted. Haven’t even touched it yet…
Remember how I said too much solder paste and anyone can do this? Everyone has to start somewhere, time to suck it up and cleanup your (solder) balls.
Time to check your work (fun fact, since LED4Power’s MosX boards have the FET on them this shouldn’t have worked. The modding gods must have left a little charge in the FET for me knowing I have no idea what i’m doing)
I wont bore you with my crappy soldering stories or trying to snake wires all over the place or mixing up FET and Temp wires but lets just say I got it done.
Time for the glamour shots:
will probably change this to a clear ano’d convoy tube some day
tint mixing is the new hotness, get on board. Inspired by maukka tests of two slightly above BBL LEDs mixing into a middle tint below BBL. Also, it just plain looks COOL in moon (<1lm)
showing off her glOw face
and last but not least, obligatory beam shot from a cell phone on auto (you’re welcome)
There is a slight donut which surprised me from a TIR optic. Considering how well everything else turned out, I can look past it. I’ll try a piece of DC-Fix when I get around to it but I suspect I will miss my precious lumens and take it out.
That is so nicely done contactcr! I wonder what that output is?
It would have been an insult to the fine resulting flashlight if you had shown the messy bit with the wire soldering 
Btw, you could, instead of buying a clear C8, remove the anodisation with lye.