I have a D4vn with the XP-L2 4000k 80CRI from Mouser and the tint is pretty good. With clear optics, there is just very slight yellow corona with mostly rosy hotspot. With frosted optics, looks like it is either on the BBL or just slightly above. It is not as rosy as the 5A and 5D XP-L HI or XP-G2 that I tried but not bad for a non tint binned emitter.
How does the Mouser one compare with Digikey? If possible, I would love to buy 5A or 5D tinted versions of the XP-L2 80CRI.
Most of this new lights are too buggy to buy them with glued components, so a no go for me.
Does Sofirn glue other drivers? I’ve got three and each uses a threaded retaining ring.
I love 3x18650 parallel lights after purchasing the r0t66. I think this light will be a huge winner if they just put the same xpl hi as they did in the sofirn q8 for more throw!
If I wanted a brighter floodier beam, I can just pick up the rot66.
I like how they (Sofirn) got rid of the vertical line/groove going thru the bands of knurling, I suggested that in the Sofirn Q8 thread, a little late as it were, but they must have been listening which is very COOL and looks to me much more refined/cleaner, nice job Sofirn, please keep listening! :+1:
I won’t have to index the tube like I did on the SQ8 
:+1: BUT NOW….
I am Quite bummed out though at the use of the XP-L2 only?…would of liked the option of the XP-L HI too, since the SQ8 came out with the XP-L HI’s, you would think it should/could be an option? 
I’ll have to pass on this one… :cry:
Pass Kawi? What? And here I have these 8 XP-L HI’s all bagged up for you… 
I’m pretty sure the SP32a v2 has a glued driver. The bezel was glued too.
The ROT66 is way floodier than the SP36 with XP-L2 leds.
Djozz you are a bad seller, I want the right light.
Can we have a lanyard hole in the head?
Like the acebeam k30?
It would be also nice on the Q8 lamps
I like also this slanted cooling fins.
I will ask for it, the sample has no attachment points at all.
Btw, I was too tired tonight to do a teardown of the SP36 sample but I did some turbotime testing. This afternoon I set the stepdown temperature at 60 degrees (or so I thought) and let the light cool down and recharged the 30Q’s. Later this evening I ran the turbo-test. It ran for 4.25 minutes at around 4600 lumen before stepdown occurred, the flashlight head was then 67 degC. So about 3 minutes before the head is too hot to hold (but I could hold it by the battery tube until stepdown)
It has one 
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I just measured throw of the SP36, and I get 39 kcd.
I also measured my high CRI 219B ROT66 and I measure 19 kcd, which is higher than maukka’s copy (he measured 14 kcd). The XP-L HI version of the ROT66 throws better btw, 60 kcd was posted by someone (seems somewhat high to me). The ROT66 manages that because it is higher powered with its 9 leds. (the XP-L HI version of the ROT66 has twice the output of the SP36. The thermal stepdown kicks in much sooner too: 30 seconds on my ROT66 when set at 60 degC., vs 4.25 minute on the SP36)
Could you post the length and diameter?
It’s a FET driver, right? Any info on regulated levels, PWM?
The leds are driven quite hard at max…
I think it’s a good idea and an interesting flashlight. Do you know if sofirn is planning to take out his 21700 c8f with USB charger? for me it would be ideal for some gifts that I want to make.
Yep I totally agree. I’ll buy a few of the 21700 C8F with USB C recharge if Sofirn makes them
But of course, THIS is a discussion of the Sofirn SP36… there are other threads discussing their other lights.
The SP36 proves that Sofirn is able to make a flashlight with both Narsil and USB-charging, that is a desirable combination!
This pipe bomb walks into a bar… the bartender says “Hey, aren’t you that crazy pipe bomb I threw out of here last night?” The pipe bomb says “No, I’m just another cheap flashlight with a built in USB charger and multiple Li-ion cells. Give me a break man! And a glass of water please…”
Satire, an attempt at humor where humor doesn’t exist…
I ’m not an expert on charging electronics but once I opened the driver I will make pictures, it may use a known and decent charging chip.
With batteries directly connected parallel it does not use balancing charging, monitoring each individual cell, my question is: how bad is that?
Even IF a pricey name brand excellent charging chip was used, it’s still charging 3 cells in parallel that may be imbalanced and will almost assuredly become so at some point in the flashlights life. I sure wouldn’t use it. I remove those and plug the USB charging port with silicone to seal it up. I like my fingers on my hands and I like to be able to see… consider myself to be a compassionate person and don’t want to deprive anyone else of their senses either, Lord knows there’s far too many folks actually running around not using much sense these days…
Simple scenario, and we’ve had someone in the forum recently talking about how they do this… a 2200mAh store brand protected cell get’s put in the light alongside a high discharge 30Q and a 3500mA high capacity cell. All three of these, side by side, charge simultaneously from the same charging circuit. Hmmmm, yeah, I don’t think that’s a great idea! A lot of folks take chances daily that I’m simply not willing to take at all. I reckon Justin said it best when he said “It is what it is…” Still, I’ll stay well and clear away from that mess, thank you very much!
(Remember, you never know what someone else may have put in a light when they’re using it right beside YOU! Or in your building, at work, at the store, at the movies or in the mall, so simple for someone else’s error to become your life, or your loved ones…)
[I know someone that recently had a cell vent, scary scenario!]