Both top of ramp and dbl clk turbo are the same.
I measure 33kcd or 363 meters.
A good mix of flood and throw and great for walking around at night.
Those lumen numbers seem about right. I think I got 2800 lumens with the 30T at 1s but too lazy to charge and test again. Thanks for the tear down pics.
My C8F arrived about a week ago - also a long time enroute. No damage or dents to the already installed battery. The battery is a Sofirn labeled 21700 claiming 4000 mAh and 40A. After fully charging at a rate of 1.0 amp I ran the light until the battery fell just below 3.0v then fully recharged the battery to 4.2v. It took 4127mAh. I like the light but initially found the UI more confusing than most. Getting to the ramping group (not its default) took several tries. Pocketable in an overcoat or windbreak. A good blend of throw and peripheral light. Weighs a little more than a half pound (264g) with battery. Nice solid feel. Balances perfectly on my forefinger. Good heat management.
Phase 1 of my switch mod is complete. Converting the boot to a clear one. No one seems to make a clear version in the right size. It’s 14mm wide at the base, 11mm wide at the bezel and 4mm tall. I was able to trim a cover from a Convoy L6. It fits!
It sort of fits!
It sits about 3mm higher actually, but it works really well and I can find the switch a lot easier.
Phase 2 is making an led stay on all the time, like I did with my other lights, but still keeping the battery indicator function.
Ps, Sofirn has commented that it is the FET on the driver that is causing the reduced performance. If your light is making under 3,000 lumen with the 21700 battery you can contact them through a PM about getting a replacement driver.
Nice switch mod JasonWW. Much more visible from the side. Having the LED stay on all the time will be a big plus. I appreciate your posts.
Thanks :+1:
I just got some new FETs from MTN today and swapped it out.
New and old.
I gained 2A more at the tail and 350 more lumens @30s. There is a more instant jump to Turbo as well (Edit: There is still a little bit of ramp up, but it’s less noticable). I left the stock led wires.
So tail amperage went from 7.15A to 9.2A and lumens from 2,560 to 2900. I could probably get more output by replacing the led wires with 18ga, but this is fine for now.
I also ordered a Samsung 30T and a 50E so we will see how these perform.
Thanks for sharing the data. Did you also request a revised driver from Sofirn?
Yes. I did not know if I would succeed with the hot air swap. I might have accidently blown tiny resisters right off the board! 
Luckily, everything went smoothly.
I had my air flow at the lowest setting and added flux around the edges. I tried 300*C, but it wasn’t enough. 340*C got the job done. I brought the temps up slowly so my old FET is probably still good. Once removed, I wicked all the old solder away and the pads looked fine. Added flux and put fresh leaded solder on the pads. Added a bit more flux and set the new FET into place. I heated everything up slowly then focused the heat on the FET. It dropped into place and I pressed down on it to squeeze out any excess solder. I’m glad to see that the hot air gun in my soldering station works so well.
Maybe use this hot plate might make it safer and easier?
How has it worked for you?
I can probably get by with blowing hot air on the bottom of the mcpcb. I don’t see a need in buying yet another specialty device just for leds that I might do one per year.
I use small round elect, Skillet from caravan with thermostat.
using Laser Thermometer to check temp’s. (I had both)
Nice work Jason :+1: More instant Turbo? Are you still seeing a bit of climb?
I’m looking at it very carefully right now. If I set the brightness level a little below Turbo and then double click, it looks like the output drops a little bit and then it ramps up to the Turbo level. Very strange.
From a lower level, like 500 lumen, it seems to do a big jump in brightness then a little ramp up to full brightness.
It’s not too bothersome and better than before.
Now that Lexel is using Anduril, I may see about getting a new driver from him. I mainly want to try out that UI, but this stock driver seems to be fine for normal use.
Lexel had to order some boards special for the C8F 21700 due to this size and retaining ring. When my Mtn one gets in i’ll let you know how it works out. Only FET+1 though. I only ordered hosts though so my LEDs will probably be LH351D or something I have sitting around.
If you want to use lower temps when you do delicate reflows you should use leaded solder. 63/37 will flow much easier
That is all I use.
I see where I said the wrong thing earlier. I always try to get the lead free solder off the boards and replace it with the good leaded type. :+1:
I bought it but haven’t even opened it. Don’t have space on my desk for another flashlight related item. I prefer just buying the emitter already soldered onto the mcpcb from Clemence and Kaidomain. Much easier.
How many lumens do you think a Skyray King would output?
I had a customer who purchased a C8F XPL 18650 version and he already had a Skyray claiming 2000 lumens with 3x XML’s. He got angry saying I was selling falsely rated lights and his Skyray was much brighter because it threw further. I measured the C8F to be 2700 lumens.
Ended up saying that the different reflector on the Skyray could be making it seem brighter when it’s actually not. What do you guys think? Would like to get the facts in case I come across another unhappy customer.
Love now having the TA Lumen Tube to see that the Sofirn rating was accurate.
He may have been refering to the lux as brighter and not lumens. The SRK should have a smaller hotspot due to its bigger reflector so it might be more intense and throw further. The C8F puts out a larger diameter hotspot. Meaning it’s higher lumens is spread out over a wider area so it doesn’t look as intense.
Lumens is about total light output.
Very helpful explanation. Thank you