Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

Yep, makes sense. :slight_smile:

The Samsung 20S seems to be known as the hardest hitting 18650 in the vaping community. 6-7 milli ohms or something? (if we are talking in a relative sense to VTC5A/5D ~ 9 milli ohms).

BTW do you know of any source for VTC6A?

I just compared it on the battery comparator, when this is newly charged and used in pocket rockets esp @ > 15A per cell for measurement purposes, wow. And the temperature increase @ 30A is really superb.

Got my ROT66 with the SST-20 4000k hi cri plus the 804 filter from Vinh in today.

So now I have:

ROT66 219B R9080 4500k
ROT66 LH351D +Lee 804 4000k
ROT66 SST-20 HI CRI 4000k
ROT 66 SST-20 HI CRI + Lee 804 4000k

LH351D 4000k and SST-20 4000k (both high CRI) need a minus green filter to get rid of their greenish cast (until someone can source some that place at or below BBL). With both using the Lee Zircon 804 filter, it’s very close between the LH351D and SST-20 when shining on white walls etc. When shining on wood and flesh tones, the SST-20 holds a clear advantage. Nothing else I have comes close to looking as beautiful as the SST-20 + 804 filter with regards to wood and flesh tones. I also prefer the defined, smaller hotspot of the SST-20 in the ROT66 compared to the wall of light that is the LH351D.

Compared to the tint-snob champ, the 219B R9080 4500k, the SST-20+Lee 804 will still look a little dingy and unpure on a white wall, but I prefer the SST-20 +804 still with wood and flesh tones. Output on turbo is greater than the 219B R9080 as well, although nothing gets as impossibly low on moonlight as this 219B sample that I have :P. Anyways, I think both tints are equally as good, and you will probably prefer one over the other depending on your mood.

Also one more thing to note, with the new Anduril UI (and I’m assuming the ramp ceiling being the highest regulated output), the SST20 HI CRI has a higher regulated output compared to the 219B R9080. I’m guessing around 1400 lumens. 5 mins in and the light is only a little warm.

Good summary.

One thing I guess I will never understand is how people hold 219B to such high acclaim. Saying SST-20 + 804 is still dingy and unpure but is probably still closer to BBL than 219B will ever be. So much stats and measuring involved and ultimately everyone ends up just choosing a preference based on a pink hue that is more visibly appealing even if less technically accurate.

Similar thing happened when the SST-40 became popular to use for modding. People claimed even though it was such a high CCT that it still looked “pure white”. It’s got the most hideous blue and purple spill I have ever seen.

I guess ultimately I am thankful that, to me, what people typically consider unbearable green hue does not stand out very much to me. I feel like if the 219B was any other brand than Nichia or ~80CRI everyone would hate it.

I don’t have the equipment to measure what the duv of the SST20+804 would be, but I do imagine it would be a little less pink biased than the R9080, but the R9080 in the ROT66 as it is ins’t all that pink until you run the emitters at max output, then you can see the pinkish hue.

When I say less pure, I’m talking mostly from a CCT standpoint. My eyes just naturally white-balanced to 4500k easier and faster than they do 4000k, even at night-time. Yet, at the same time, even if my eyes are white-balanced to the 4500k CCT of the nichias, the warmer-toned SST-20+804 just adds so much richness to wood tones with its warmer color (and what I’m assuming is an appreciably greater deep red rendering)

I like pink.

Specifically, I see less red than most people, and instead I see slightly into the UV part of the light spectrum. So I appreciate having a little extra red beyond what is normally considered “white”, because that makes things look whiter to me than a true blackbody light source.

I suppose that makes sense. Like a deaf person standing next to the sub woofer to feel the bass.

Just seems like people see a graph and a dot that may be barely measurable above BBL and suddenly, without cause, it must be repulsive green yet something driven so hard below BBL is given a pass. If more people just said “i like pink” I think it would make more sense.

Poor green and yellow LEDs, some day you will shine :slight_smile:

LOL, you sound like the perfect person to follow the opinion on tint. :smiley:

TK and her color deficient mafia controlling the narrative on tint. It’s all coming together. :cowboy_hat_face:

The difference in CCT of 4000K vs. 4500K is probably significantly more noticeable than the deviation from the BBL of the 219C. At a minimum, a chromaticity diagram tends to suggest as much.

I also think the way our vision works explains part of your observation. Although in isolation, a very wide range of color temperatures can appear to be pure white, if you take any random person, and given them an adjustable temperature light source like a Viltrox panel or a Zanflare T1, and tell them to adjust it to be as white as possible, I bet there’d be two primary observations:

(1) Not everyone will choose the same setting.
(2) Most people will tend towards a setting in 5000-5500k range.

The reason I say this is both because it is consistent with my personal experience, and because the average human eye has a peak sensitivity that corresponds to the peak output of a black body source at 5225K. I do not know of research testing my argument in a properly controlled setting, however.

So likewise, I think most people would find 4500K closer to pure white than 4000K. But I also suspect there is enough variation that some people may find 4000K more pure than 4500K. Furthermore, others may find 4500K more “pure”, yet perceive a good 4000K not as “dingier” (negative) but as “warmer” (positive).

not all white walls were created equal :expressionless:

I don’t agree. I own about 2 dozen Nichia 219C 90CRI lights from 4000k to 5000k and I don’t like the tint on any of them. I also own two Nichia 219B 4000k 90CRI, two Nichia 219B 4500k 90CRI lights, and four Nichia 219B 5000k lights. I never really thought their tint was all that. I kept saying the 219B tint is overrated and that the Cree A and D tint is much better except the Nichia 90CRI does render colors better compared side by side. At the time I didn’t realize what 9000, 9050, 9080 meant and all of my 219B lights were actually 9050 or below. The ROT66 was my first 219B 9080 light and I was blown away how nice it looks. It doesn’t even look rosy unless you blast it on turbo but colors really come to life. Wood texture looks exactly how it should be. Other lights make wood look yellow, but the 9080 makes wood look brown. Tint wise on a white wall, it doesn’t look “that” much better than my Cree A or D tint flashlights but when illuminating objects such as wood texture, dirt, and foliage, the 9080 makes a big difference in bringing out the colors compared with Cree.

I know, right?

I’ve been trying to warn people not to just blindly trust my taste in the FW3A thread, but it hasn’t been going well.

I got my rot66 Samsung 4000k from sky. I measured 6000 lumen … the tint is not too yellow nor green.

Love it! I like green way tha fk more than blue balls!

Flashlights are addicting. I’ve ordered my 3rd. Or is it just this flashlight?

Is anyone noticing their lights sucking the life out of batteries with no use? I’ve had one set completely drain in one light and the other light drained them below 3.0v, over a few days. One with auxiliary LEDs one without

For me it’s just the light. It’s such a nice host to test a multitude of high cri emitters, especially since it’s easy to slip filters in between the optics and lens. Of course I wouldn’t be using the host to begin with if the UI sucked. I like the Narsil UI quite a bit, and I think I like the Anduril UI even better, since the ramp ceiling stops at the highest regulated output.

Anduril is a bit delay when turn on the light and turn off compare to narsil v.

I notice that on my rot66.

I haven’t noticed Anduril delay when turning on with one click, it seems to be as instant as Narsil. It does turn off momentarily then turn back on when you double click from off though. Anduril also has a delay when turning off just like Zebralights. Those are two things I feel Narsil does better.

So I’ve been playing with the presumed 1400 or so ramp ceiling with my SST20 4000k sample, and it does seem to steadily drop in output over time, I guess to keep it within a safe operating temperature. Is there a way to configure the temperature limit? The little paper provided for the Anduril UI makes no sense whatsoever ( the one with all the ovals and bat symbol).

By mistake, ff sent me another rot66 with batteries included, before I even told them that batteries were missing on mine. Should arrive Monday. Jack just told me he'll give me a deal if I want to keep the light and of course I said yes

Canada Post is offering venture one card holders free shipping across Canada every Tuesday in October. Might be an idea to sell some of my new lights and stock up on a few more rot66's.