What did you mod today?

Ok, so I’m confused, again. How can LED4POWER’s 12A Constant Current driver deliver 28A at the tail?

It’s a CC FET+DD FET driver. Truly amazing stuff :slight_smile:

djozz, it very well could be higher I adjusted mine down to very conservative factor after comparing with some of your newer tests of Q8 and others but I would hope it’s at least in the ballpark.

Dale, that is the beauty of his MosX setup. It’s the best of both worlds. In the firmware you can choose the highest mode to be anywhere from 8 to 12A CC for this driver or you can override that and it will use a FET that is on the MCPCB to do direct drive (for the highest mode only).

Check out the data sheet: https://led4power.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/LD-4-datasheet-1.1.pdf

Since the FET and Temp sensor are both tied to mcpcb with good thermal path you get really good performance for either mode.

Btw, I checked the color temp and the closest known one I have to it is a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K so it must be closer to 4500K than I originally thought.

I actually have the driver, and several others, just haven’t put em to use yet. :wink:

Couple weeks ago. Brass switch cover with green tritium vial for my 47's Atom triple and a couple new magnetic holders to keep the DQG Hobi Ti+ Seoul Viosys 365nm UV flashlight, petrol lighter & DQG Ti green laser on my utility keyring.

Just need a red light now :-)

UltraFire UF-10 Luminus SST-20 5000KThis one has had a few different emitters.

Cree XP-L HI v2 1A:
Max – 1120lm/ 406lm - 4.5A
Lux – 29000/ Throw – 340m

Nichia 319AT SM655 D440F2 6500K:
Max – 1036lm/ 392lm - 5.2A
Lux – 17000/ Throw – 260m

Luminus SST-20 5000K L3 DA:
Max – 870lm/ 350lm - 5.3A
Lux - 30500/ Throw 349m

On a whim I pulled parts out of the bin and made a new bait fish fishing light.

Sc02
Green XP-E2
BLF SK68 driver populated with a baby FET on a 7135 pad. E-switch 13 (TomE) firmware.
Horrible tail cap setup replaced with my typical Cu disk / spring press fit in place of the stock crap.

Total spent: zero

Tried an upgrade of the BLF Q8 from the XM-L 4500K to Samsungs LH351D 90 CRI 4000K.

Reflowed those new LEDs

Shiny new screws for the MCPCB

100uF 1206 capacitor to reduce problems with bumps:

And an AR-coated lens

But sadly, it looks like I damaged one emitter somehow.

Strange, since one emitter definately made some troubles when reflowing

My question is: would you replace that LED or just live with it?

EDIT: I forgot I ordered a spare LH351D on a 16mm MCPCB. Everything fixed now.

Interestingly, in the tests with ceilingbounce, it went from around 5500 lm to 6500lm, so that partially damaged LED clearly didn't pull it's weight.

My big advice for everyone trying to reflow such a big MCPCB with a hot air rework station:

Remove any nozzle attachment so you can heat the biggest area and hit it with maximum airflow from below.

Works like a charm.

Also, don't use too much solderpaste, it will only short-circuit.

NovaTac SPA Defense SPL-120 - Nichia 219C 4000K & 18350 cell mod.

Since my D4 didn’t get much love. I swapped the 219C for SST-20 4000K and put Anduril on it. Much better now! :smiley: :+1:

P.S.: crx nice and clean as always! :smiley:

I put SST-20 4000K LEDs in an E2L triple (again). Using a FET+N+1 from Lexel with Bistro HD.

This time they seem to be surviving. The last SST-20’s turned yellow on me after testing a high drain battery on turbo. Maybe my reflow was bad, guess time will tell.

Does about 2,400lm at 0s with VTC6

I also added a clear switch boot and drilled a tiny hole in it for an ice blue trit. Thanks to Dale for showing me this. Just enough glow to see it in a dark room but not enough to bother you and it doesn’t drain your battery.

I kind of like how pointy the beam looks in my triple with these LEDs. What do you think? Between these and the LH351D you really have both extremes of beam shape covered.

Any idea what the output is on your D4?

You mean using a liitokala 26650 on the Fenix HM50R? How come?

Does emitter swapping count? First I bought a preflowed mcpcb with a 4000k Nichia on it for my H03, did a simple mcpcb swap. Then last night I did my first ever emitter reflowing, I swapped that 4000k Nichia for a 4000k LH351D that pairs better with the TA driver I put in that same light. It was a success!

Also, that TA driver, i got it from Lexel, prebuilt. But I also got some bare boards and all the little bits that go on it, and I built two of those out a couple nights ago, my first time! And they seem to work fine. I haven’t tested them fully in a light, but I flashed anduril and ran through the modes with a test led and it all seemed fine.

I love this place so much! Thank you all for your help. You guys are awesome.

You’re doing great beastly!

Been away for awhile and this thread has gone mad. To many mods to comment on but lots of terrific work going on. Well done guys and keep posting your mods up. :beer:

Tbh I’m a bit worried to run it on full turbo. The heat generation feels about the same as the Nichias, which is pretty extreme. I don’t want to fry anything (yet). I might start to take measurements with 4.1V and go up from there.
The beam is still very smooth, no defined hotspot. Not really my type of beam, but better than the even less focused 219Cs.

I’ve run my D4 first gen (not tamed) with 4 SST20 on Turbo until the temperature protection kicks in, repeatedly so I couldn’t hold the light anymore…
The LEDs seem to be fine, well they didn’t tint shifted or desoldered so I guess they’re okay

As long as your reflow is good you should be fine (especially with something like a VTC6/30Q). My triple has less output but higher amps per emitter I would guess and it seems to be doing fine on the 2nd try.

If you are using the smooth narrow optic that is probably as tight as it will ever be with a multi emitter TIR. Maybe try a C8F or something if you want more hotspot. The LEDs definitely are capable of making a nice tight beam though.

I have LH351D, 219C, XP-L HI and SST-20 all in triple carclo optics and you can see the difference in beam shape pretty noticeably between them. I listed in order of most floody to least.

I can only measure Lux though. But when I know the current I can probably estimate the OTF lumens pretty well with an output chart.

Edit: 4.16V VTC5D gives 18.7A. 10 seconds until its too hot to touch. That’s 4.7A and 933lumen per emitter according to maukka’s output chart. Let’s say 80% leave the front, so roughly 3000 Lumen OTF.
It’s such a nice 4000K tint. :+1: