Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

I got my rot66 Samsung 4000k from sky. I measured 6000 lumen … the tint is not too yellow nor green.

Love it! I like green way tha fk more than blue balls!

Flashlights are addicting. I’ve ordered my 3rd. Or is it just this flashlight?

Is anyone noticing their lights sucking the life out of batteries with no use? I’ve had one set completely drain in one light and the other light drained them below 3.0v, over a few days. One with auxiliary LEDs one without

For me it’s just the light. It’s such a nice host to test a multitude of high cri emitters, especially since it’s easy to slip filters in between the optics and lens. Of course I wouldn’t be using the host to begin with if the UI sucked. I like the Narsil UI quite a bit, and I think I like the Anduril UI even better, since the ramp ceiling stops at the highest regulated output.

Anduril is a bit delay when turn on the light and turn off compare to narsil v.

I notice that on my rot66.

I haven’t noticed Anduril delay when turning on with one click, it seems to be as instant as Narsil. It does turn off momentarily then turn back on when you double click from off though. Anduril also has a delay when turning off just like Zebralights. Those are two things I feel Narsil does better.

So I’ve been playing with the presumed 1400 or so ramp ceiling with my SST20 4000k sample, and it does seem to steadily drop in output over time, I guess to keep it within a safe operating temperature. Is there a way to configure the temperature limit? The little paper provided for the Anduril UI makes no sense whatsoever ( the one with all the ovals and bat symbol).

By mistake, ff sent me another rot66 with batteries included, before I even told them that batteries were missing on mine. Should arrive Monday. Jack just told me he'll give me a deal if I want to keep the light and of course I said yes

Canada Post is offering venture one card holders free shipping across Canada every Tuesday in October. Might be an idea to sell some of my new lights and stock up on a few more rot66's.

Fireflies seems intent on changing our perception of Chinese customer service. :+1:

That can be set to whatever level you want. The highest regulated output is simply the default configuration.

For reference, the highest regulated level is 115/150 on the 219B model or 125/150 on other models.

Anduril gives the user a window of 24 ticks (0.384 seconds) to complete each action. For example, when pressing the button, if the user releases the button within 0.384s, the action is considered a “click”. But if the user presses longer than that, it is considered a “hold” action. And after releasing a click, the user has 0.384s to press again for a double click or a triple click, etc. After the button has been released for 0.384s, it decides the user is done pressing the button and it responds.

When turning off, there is one window worth of delay between releasing the button and actually turning off the LEDs. This is done to give the user time to press again for a double click, a click-release-hold action, a triple click, or other things they might want to do. If it turned off as soon as the button was released the first time, that would mean the light would have to turn off and back on when doing “double click for turbo” and “click-release-hold to ramp down”.

So it is a matter of one poison or another. I prefer the delayed-off issue over the off-and-back-on issue. But I plan on adding a compile option to choose whichever one the user wants.

There is a similar issue with doing a double click from off — the shortcut to turbo (er, the ceiling level). Since a lot of functions take more than two clicks from off, I don’t want it to flash turbo on the way to those other functions. The sequence of events for that looks like this:

  1. Button down: Light up at floor level for immediate moon.
  2. Button up: Oops, not moon. Go up to the memorized level for immediate mem.
  3. Button down: Oops, not mem either. Turn off and wait until the input window expires before taking any further action.

However, to avoid turning off before turbo, it could maybe do this instead…

  1. Button down: Light up at floor level for immediate moon.
  2. Button up: Oops, not moon. Go up to the memorized level for immediate mem.
  3. Button down: Do nothing.
  4. Button up: Do nothing.
  5. Button down: Not moon, mem, or turbo… so turn off and wait until the input window expires before taking any further action.

For double click, this would mean staying at the memorized level before jumping up to turbo, instead of turning off. Would that help?

Yes, you should be able to calibrate the sensor and set a temperature limit. I’d start with just the sensor, and then change the limit if it still doesn’t work how you want. It’s kind of buried though, because it only really needs to be calibrated once. Here’s how:

  • Let the light settle to room temperature. Check a thermometer to find out what room temperature is, in degrees C, and remember this number.
  • 3 clicks from off, for battery check mode.
  • 2 clicks for sunset mode.
  • 2 clicks for beacon mode.
  • 2 clicks for temperature check mode. I’d suggest waiting for it to read out a value here, to find out how far off the calibration is. It should be the same number as what the thermometer said, but it could be significantly higher. (for example, a value of 31 C would be 3 blinks, pause, 1 blink)
  • 4 clicks for thermal config mode.
  • Calibrate the sensor: Light blinks once then stutters. During the stutter, click once per degree C for the current room temperature. It’s probably somewhere around 20.
  • Optional: Set a temperature limit: Light blinks twice then stutters. Click once per degree C you want for the temperature limit, minus 30. So, for 45 C, click 15 times. 45 is the default. To skip this step, just wait a few seconds for the light to fall out of config mode on its own.

Usually calibrating the sensor is enough, and it only needs to be done once. After that, any further adjustment should typically modify the temperature limit instead.

Jacky gave me free Enogear AA too when mine broke. Its the same owner as FF. I’ll be buying more from FF and Enogear. I value good customer service.

Na, it’s more like critics on a movie:
If they bash in a certain style on a movie, you know you’ll love that one.

:smiley: … :+1: … I like that!!
We just have different priorities of what is really important to us.
And hey…. somebody is going to control the narrative…… :wink:

I didn’t have a problem with the holster but I am a little bummed at how cheap the lanyard attachment is. It feels like it would break off if I actually used it. Too bad other doesn’t just have a milled attachment point.

I feel the same way about almost every milled attachment point. There’s so little material retaining the lanyard, even on bigger lights. With some wear, tear and abuse, it’s not going to last as long as I’d like, especially if the lanyard is attached with a steel or titanium clip. At least the threaded attachments can be replaced.

/\ . . Good point leaftye…. … :+1:

I am about to order some 18650 flat top for the rot66… which one i should get ? Sony vtc6 or sony vct5a ?? Please input. Thanks.

Well, the VTC6 that I have work fine (I know they might bump a little) in both of my BLF Q8s and my ROT66 XP-L.

And they are not PINK! :disappointed:

Why not VCT5D instead of VTC5A?

Thank you chinooker… i just check illumn and they were out of sony vtc6… i guess i will have to go with sony vtc5a for $5.99 each…

I have sony vtc5d from illumn… expensive as hell… cost $9.99 each… they perform like vtc6… not worth it…