[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ENDED

Thanks. Might try those then. But I’ll probably also get one with 219b’s since I know I’d like it. Which minus green filter do you use? And would it be able to handle the heat from this light?

It’s the Lee Zircon 804. The Lee Zircon filters are designed to handle high heat from LEDs, so I think it should be fine. I haven’t had any fading issues yet.

Interested

Interested.

Interested.

Interested: sst20 cri95 or 219b or 219c at 4000k.

If an SST20 version is swapped out for XP-L HI’s would it then be close to 5000 lumens, or is there a limit set in the firmware for the SST’s?

Interested.

why not just order one of the XPL Hi versions - :http://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54&tracking=5b8428f176540

Strange choose of emitters.
The only floody version is very specific and unefficient 219B. 95+ cri or ~65 ,R9<<0.

BTW Is magnet removable?
Is driver dimensions known?

Interested.

It’s not going to stay at 5000 lumens for long. It’ll get too hot, and ramp down to keep itself from overheating. Even cold winter air is probably not enough to keep it at full power; it probably would need water cooling for that.

Also, I haven’t done thermal testing on it. I’m not sure yet how exactly it responds to full power, because the prototype I have uses a really thin MCPCB shelf. This was fixed in the production version, but I haven’t tested one of those. There’s also an issue with reflashing the driver while it’s still inside the host, so I don’t have a way to reflash an assembled light yet. So thermal response is currently unknown. It should drop to half power when hot, then use PID to regulate to a sustainable level.

Interested…of course…I really don’t have a use for it……

I’ll have to find one….
:wink:

Hmmm. Come to think of it, I think with the pl47 form factor maybe FF or somebody here can design a cable adapter and a headband of some sorts. One where you can screw in the head and the tube on the opposite ends of the cable. With headlamp mode the head is in your forehead and the battery at the back of your head (or helmet). I think this would make this a more balanced headlamp especially with a 21700 battery. And reading the BLF headlamp posts including diy headlamp projects it seems a lot of people (including myself) want this type of headlamp. They’re also quite expensive when buying from named brands and specialized (think caving) stores.

Because it’s not offered in 4000K.

Interested.

nice to see will run of 18650 as well!

Can someone break down the typical uses and characteristics of these 5 different LED choices?

I have a NITECORE HC33 with the CREE XHP35 HD in whatever white tint it comes in and a THRUNITE TH30 with the CREE XHP70.2 LED in Cool White. The THRUNITE seems yellowish to me and pretty floody. The NITECORE is more of what I would call white and throws way more with a floody spill. I was wearing both last night in the grape vineyard, both on MAX at the same time and it was great! I could see 100 yards forward and about 30 yards to each side in vivid detail. Those purple grapes just popped. Had a C8 XM-L2 Cool with me as well, and when I turned that on I could see 300 yards forward, about 200 yards extremely well. Found four cats wondering what the heck I was doing. Lots of particulate floating in the air. Startled an owl…

I am interested in getting 2 variations of this light. I don’t have a favorite tint or kelvin number. I like icy cold blue. I like slightly warm. I like anything in between. I would enjoy having a very flat neutral non artifact or hot spot flood for photographing products. Not sure what type of emitter/optic combo would best fulfill that need… The other could be anything. Eager to hear about the flavor of these 5 choices and why any of you are passionate about a certain variety.

2 lights up!

Interested

For photography I’d go with high cri. Tint and Temp can easily be adjusted. For pure even flood that covers the whole frame then a mule (no optics or reflector) is the way to go. I’m not sure how difficult or easy it is to remove the bezel and optics from this light though, or if the mcpcb is screwed down or just pressed by the optics (maybe TK can answer this). I have used a d4 for photography and I find that even the very floody Carclo 10623 optics produces an uneven light so I remove the optics for this purpose.