Potting compound for building a tank light

I’m building a Convoy M1 with Luxeon MZ and a FET driver and I’m thinking of potting it as well to make it a tank light. I’ve also been reading a lot on BLF about potting compounds but a lot of the posts are a couple years back. My question is what potting compound would be good for this? My main reason of potting is just for durability, not so much for heatsinking, although that would be a plus. I know most would mix some epoxy with silicon carbide powder but I would prefer it without since I’m not from the US and shipping would be a pain. Are there any alternatives or can I just pot with bare epoxy?

You have a tank!?

Wheredya park it overnight?

Right in front of my house facing my neighbor.

If I remember correctly you want to avoid acetic acid because it can react poorly with components on the driver, but other than that I know very little about what’s usable and what isn’t :frowning:

Yes, I’ve read about that. It’s mostly because that would corrode the components from what I’ve read. I’ve seen most posts about potting and many are mainly doing it for heatsinking to drive their lights harder but non talk about potting for durability. Those that do never show or talk about the process of potting. :frowning:

What about using hot glue?

I used it on a bunch of those solar outdoors lights to keep out water.

Hi.
I’ve done a couple of my torches and it seems to work.

Hardware Store. ” Ceramic Epoxy”. It’s white.
Comes in a 2 x tube mixer. and takes a few hrs to set.
NOT a 5 min mixture.
I add enuff to cover base driver and partially UP the components, Not fully cover them.
You won’t get them out again It’s PERMANENT…
but you can see if you’ve cooked them etc.
I did an original old C8 with Q5 chip in there first.
then threw it against a brick wall and onto the ground half a doz times.
Well dented. and cracked glass.
But the light still worked incl the switching. L.M.H.Flash. etc.
So Potting seems to give more electrical stability.

I’m quite sure that’s not going to do it. Hot glue melts at a fairly low temp and it’s going to melt when the light is on for long periods of time.

Above… YEP….

Tried on a $2.50 Speshul yrs ago.

Even without potting mix a 7135 driver will take a beating no issues. It has nothing to big sticking out to break of. You see the most issue with boost and buck drivers.

Hmm, thanks for the info. I’ll try to look for that. I’ve seen the abuse the PFlexPro lights take and was inspired to make one myself. Would be nice if it could be used on a 12 gauge once potted. It’s always much more satisfying when you have something you built.

You can get low / high temp glue. I think the low temp melts at around 80 degrees Celsius shouldn’t be much of an issue?

Macka17, the only thing that’s really popping out in my search is porcelain chip repair 2-part epoxy, does that sound right?
I’d be fine just putting some JB Weld or any old 2-part on there but I don’t have the depth of knowledge a lot of these folks have and you’ve actually used this with no ill effects.
Somebody was talking about acid or something eating away at components and then I realize this is beyond my scope.
I’d hate to click the switch when I really needed some light and get nothing!
I once dropped a light, it quit working, something rattling around inside. Potting is a great option if possible.

Also, I wonder if some epoxy putty like waterweld would work? It would be much easier to work with since it doesn’t flow.

YEP.
Bought to repair a china thingy of Missus’s Grandma. 7 pieces. fitted purrfect.

SHHH. Does good job, She ain’t noticed it yet. Over 150 yrs old luckily the breaks occurred between the glazed colouring so All white and blending.

I use it on boards to locate and stabilise all the little bits and their solder.
No Shaking loose or dry joint tricks.
Rather than protecting the internals of individual parts.

I would recommend simply silicone thermal glue. Not as tough against direct damage as epoxy, but still pretty tough and inside the light there should be no difference.
Thermally it should be better.
And if you screw something up or some component blows - you can remove it.

Do you have any brand to recommend? Might be a dumb question but it will cure like silicone and not so much like caulk right? I might get some Fujik to try.

I don’t know about any brands but I would recommend something that’s not just for waterproofing but also thermally conductive because there will be no air touching your components, so you need the potting compound to move heat away rather than insulate it.

No. I have Kafuter K-5024K and don’t recommend it because it separated into fractions, one white and thick and the other watery and translucent. I mix it up a bit before application and it works for me, but that’s not how it should work. I’ve seem many people recommend Fujik.

Isn’t air a thermal insulator already?