Fireflies ROT66 Flashlight

Video for turning strobes on and off.

Just do 3 clicks to turn all strobes on.

Yeah spaceminions, I hear ya’. :smiley:

This was around 40 years ago though when mileage in a truck was nothing near 20 mpg in the first place. Plus… the guy I’m speaking of was basically just an obnoxious braggart…. about pretty much anything he owned. His was always better than yours kind of guy. :person_facepalming:
He was not the sharpest pencil in the box either, somewhat gullible too.

Oddly… he was a bit more ‘humble’ after this though. :smiley:

He was never told about it either. :smiley: :smiley:

IIRC we got him up to about 41 mpg and down to about 3 mpg over the course of many weeks. The dealership thought he was a nut case…. cause he told the story to them. :wink:

Oh yeah… he even got a locking gas cap during this time. It didn’t bother us at all. One of our close friends was locksmith…. we just had him come over one night & make us a key to the gas cap.

Good times & good memories…… :slight_smile:

After couple weeks old rot66 lumen measurement. I borrowed xpl hi from skylumen.

Rot66 xpl hi 6500k. 7200 lumen
Rot66 sst20 CW. 6800 lumen
Rot66 samsung 4000k. 6300 lumen…

Reset the maximum ceiling by pressing once and just cleaned all the contacts inside and on top of the carrier as well as the spring inside the head, but no difference. Then I swapped the carrier and batteries from my brighter rot66 but that didn't do anything either. I just emailed Jack, maybe he has an idea what is going on. Somehow I'm convinced there is a fix for this.

Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on! Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired up. Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down. I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn't even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.

Try this, remove the tail cap and carrier, make sure the battery tube is screwed in all the way in. Then install the carrier and tail cap.

If the battery tube is not screwed all the way in, the tail cap threads might bottom out and and not push the carrier against the head with sufficient force. You might be borderline with the carrier just barely touching and a little grease might be causing a big problem.

I’m not sure what is going on with the ROT66. Are both lights using the xpl-hi?

Ok, that didn't work, but you just gave me an idea, thanks!!!! I reversed the battery tube and tightened it all up and it's just as bright as the first one I've noticed throughout the threads that you never seem to give up on ideas, thanks man, really appreciate the help.

:open_mouth: . :open_mouth:/\ …. Great!! … :+1:

Interesting, I wonder if the battery tube threads on the ROT66 are cut slightly deeper on one end?

There is another fix people have used on the big Mateminco lights which is make a thin spacer to put between the carrier and tail cap. Some early model MF01 had slightly too long battery tubes, or too short carrier, so even with the battery tube and tail cap fully tightened the carrier did not touch. A spacer in the tail cap pushes the carrier forward. Try that on the MT70.

Maybe these ROT66 have a similar issue where the threads are cut differently, etc… and it prevents the carrier from pushing hard against the head.

Anyway, I’m glad you got the ROT66 sorted out.

Will measure in the morning as there must be a slight difference in thread length. Not really sure why it would make a difference though as the battery tube would still be the same length? Anyway, it worked and bright as the sun now.

Would you know if the inside of the tail cap is used as a ground to the carrier on the MT70 Plus? It's anodized on the inside, so I'm guessing it can't be and I could use a plastic spacer maybe to try it out.

There’s no power going through the battery tube or tail cap on any of the Astrolux MF lights (MF01, 2, 4, 4S) which includes the Mateminco versions. They all use the same 6v carrier as well.

Both positive and negative go straight from the carrier to the head of the flashlight.

Thanks. I may have some thin aluminum around that I could use as a spacer.

Thanks for your input. This isn’t the sort of light that I would use for camping or other important roles so I’m not overly concerned about its reliability, but I’ll definitely be keeping an eye on it and not leaving batteries in it long term.

Using an aluminum spacer may create a new path for the negative to flow through the battery tube and tail cap. That should be okay, but you might not be able to lock out the light. I would recommend using either a paper or plastic spacer.

You should be able to manually lock it out by twisting the battery tube or tail cap. I do this with all my e-switch lights. There’s no chance of it accidentally turning on as well as no power drain at all.

Ok, will try a plastic one then and see how it goes thank you.

Ish. The ROT66 doesn’t use the body tube to conduct electricity, so locking it by loosening it isn’t guaranteed to work. It can run even with the tube and tailcap removed.

That’s odd. On the two I’ve tried, it doesn’t matter which direction the tube is. I just make sure to tighten the tailcap onto the tube, then tighten the tube into the head, and it keeps the battery carrier pressed against the driver with as much force as possible. I also think it looks a little nicer that way — with the slack area between the tube and head, where it’s invisible, instead of between the tube and the tail.

I don't understand it either. Sometimes things don't make any sense until they do, this could be one of them.

In the case of the MF lights, and I assumed this one, loosening the tail cap or battery tube should allow the driver spring to push the carrier away from the head breaking the negative contact.

This doesn’t work on the ROT66? How can the light possibly run without something pushing on the carrier to compress the driver springs?

In one of my ROT66’s the battery carrier is so tight that I can push it all the way in and run the light with no tail cap at all - of course you can bump it and disconnect

/\ Set it lens down & the carrier will contact the spring. That would do it wouldn’t it??