GB Clone Offically "SOLD OUT" 10/21/18 XPL HI 1300LM Focusing AKA Cometa 2016

Boy oh boy, that is one Sharp experiment, you intellectual grump… isn’t there some really smart things you can do for us all…??
You’re one of the smartest members we have had and you’re wasting your time like this, how about pickup where MEM left off, pal … ??
I guess I’m glad to see your abrasive seemingly toxic a, you’ve got a lot to offer, if only you could find better dumb downed words to explain it all…

Sorry MEM was not a good example, forgot

He was a “Tosser” and burned off a few here with shabby dealings. More than a few.

So to speak.

Also I suspect not quite as clever as he liked to make out. And did very little of interest.

But, hells bells, I might be judged the same way in future.

But that was not his advise.
The new little Osram is not to be driven with more than 5 Amperes.
Efficiency is already quite low at that high current. More current will not produce more light.
A fully charged cell rated 5 Amperes max. cont. current will still push more than 5 Amperes through the poor little LED, because it only needs 3.40 Volts for 5 Ampere current.
LEDs need current regulation, unless their Vf (forward voltage) is high enough to survive direct drive. Cree XP-L (HI) for example have high Vf.
Besides that, a 18650 which is rated only 5 Amperes max. cont. current must be pretty crappy…

I have the light and the osram led on the way. Probably better to add some resistance when using the osram led. At least remove the double springs.

Hey Tom Tom, Google maps on an android phone is better.
But i think it’s time to stop trolling and pushing other members over the edge.
You’re making people angry.
I’m sure you noticed this.
People will have to start bothering SB and report your sorry backside to try put an end to this crap.
I know i will.

@ T18 :
Let it slide. Don’t feed the troll.

Just get a proper CC driver.
You’ll have full output for at least half the battery charge.

Sorry if I missed this in the >500 messages in this thread, but what’s the dirt on the (17mm) driver?

FET? Any regulation?

Dunno if anyone got ’em with 20mm or 22mm drivers, but mine’s (eyeballing it down the hole) only 17mm. Haven’t taken it apart yet, so haven’t gotten the chance to do any exploratory surgery on it.

You are probably right. I will wait for the light and led first, if I like them I might order a nice led4power driver.

Yes, it did occur to me after the fact that my MEM suggestion was not a good one at all, so please except my apology, that was a terrible suggestion honestly.
There is absolutely no comparison between you two, and his burning some folks I only learned about after I think it was the D80 modded with a printed centering piece for a aspheric lens if I recall correctly. Probably wrong but I know there was some very hard feelings about that guy.
Well hells bells, lets hope that judgement doesn’t go that way for you in the future, I know for a fact you’ve contributed much to this group.
I to have followed in your foot steps sometime ago so understand how that goes and I do apologize for my overly amp’d commentaries aimed at you, and obviously I’m still bent a little out of shape over that entire cloning situation but it looks to be finally coming to some closure, thankfully.
Anyhow, glad to see you Tom Tom, I think…??

Edit: Perhaps room for some improvements but then again it’s hard to teach an old mule a new trick… I know I’m an old mule.
My aim is to be a peaceful member as I love this place and if I wrong someone in my mind I will apologize, peaceable to a fault at times.

Okay, no time like the present, so…

Opened it up, looks like FET+1.

Still, all the higher-current modes… any regulation, or just PWMed “DD”? Anyone test ’em? Don’t quite see any sense-resistor, but I don’t have my microscope handy. :expressionless:

Just curious…

Looks like a pretty beefy little critter. Lots of heft in the pill, nice’n’shiny(!), aside from head-rattle when partially-zoomed, it seems pretty solid.

Oh yeah, the black doodad that centers the LED… plastic, not Al. No need to tape it or anything. At least on mine.

Yep, pwm-ed DD.
Actually, it could well alternate between 7135 and DD FET.
Not sure, read it long time ago…

Kewl, tnx!

If you have the BLF X6 then you have this ATTiny25V-based driver with off-time capacitor and FET+7135 power channel configuration for the lighted tail switch. (17mm)
Edit: Not the best pic but I tried in a hurry,

Edit to correct: Clone lens size: 43.45mm diam. 13.20 thick,

Real Z1 lens size: 44.90mm diam. x 14.20mm thick

Edit: The lens from the Z1 fits in this clone just as perfectly as a Z1

Honestly for as long as I’ve had authentic Z1’s and then these clones from the GB I’ve never really did a serious side by side comparison.

Well last night I did and I was really pretty stunned, if these aren’t made by the very same company and off the same spec sheet and I am proven wrong then I will eat a dump truck load of cow manure with Tabasco sauce and a plastic fork on YouTube, that would be a long vid for sure.
There’s a couple missing pieces from this clone and that is what makes all the difference, head rattle is so identical to me but those missing pieces make it seem worse in this clone.
And well blah blah blah, what do you think about that…? I was pretty stunned and would call this about as close to a 1:1 as you can get and had you put in those missing pieces it would be an exact 1:1… wow… worse than I ever knew.

So it’s not the Jaxman lens afterall ?!
(i think you made a mistake in your sizes there though)
Confusing stuff…
Who screwed who?
Never mind, i’ve heard enough about that…

T18…. is the “13.20 thick” for the ‘clone lens’ a typo??

Edit: Good eye & well said Jerommel, you caught the apparent ‘typo’ first. :wink:

…or for the Z1

Good point Alen!! It probably is the Z1…… :+1:

the sizes of clone are right :+1:

But 13.2 mm would be extremely flat for an aspheric of that size.
Very small spot size, very few OTF lumens and a huge focal distance.