Still, all the higher-current modes… any regulation, or just PWMed “DD”? Anyone test ’em? Don’t quite see any sense-resistor, but I don’t have my microscope handy.
Just curious…
Looks like a pretty beefy little critter. Lots of heft in the pill, nice’n’shiny(!), aside from head-rattle when partially-zoomed, it seems pretty solid.
Oh yeah, the black doodad that centers the LED… plastic, not Al. No need to tape it or anything. At least on mine.
If you have the BLF X6 then you have this ATTiny25V-based driver with off-time capacitor and FET+7135 power channel configuration for the lighted tail switch. (17mm)
Edit: Not the best pic but I tried in a hurry,
Edit to correct: Clone lens size: 43.45mm diam. 13.20 thick,
Real Z1 lens size: 44.90mm diam. x 14.20mm thick
Edit: The lens from the Z1 fits in this clone just as perfectly as a Z1
Honestly for as long as I’ve had authentic Z1’s and then these clones from the GB I’ve never really did a serious side by side comparison.
Well last night I did and I was really pretty stunned, if these aren’t made by the very same company and off the same spec sheet and I am proven wrong then I will eat a dump truck load of cow manure with Tabasco sauce and a plastic fork on YouTube, that would be a long vid for sure.
There’s a couple missing pieces from this clone and that is what makes all the difference, head rattle is so identical to me but those missing pieces make it seem worse in this clone.
And well blah blah blah, what do you think about that…? I was pretty stunned and would call this about as close to a 1:1 as you can get and had you put in those missing pieces it would be an exact 1:1… wow… worse than I ever knew.
So it’s not the Jaxman lens afterall ?!
(i think you made a mistake in your sizes there though)
Confusing stuff…
Who screwed who?
Never mind, i’ve heard enough about that…
Sorry you guys, I messed that up, big time, and NO these are NOT authentic z1 lenses at all. There were only about 100-150 authentic lens that Jaxman was conned out of to begin with and those went in GB lights and then there was the lens change and those lenses had bubbles in the lens so imagine the drama when that happened… boy oh boy…
The Z1 lens: 44.90mm diam and 14.20mm thick
The clone lens: 43.45mm diam and 13.20mm thick
Boy that makes a big difference I’d say, duh
And no these are not authentic K9 Lenses as near as I can tell, K9 is a fused silica and these seem to be plain optical glass.
I received some of the first few clones in the GB and my first two clones did have the authentic Z1 lens,
And as I mentioned the authentic K9 Z1 lens fits the bezel of this clone every bit as good as it does in the Z1… perfectly.
The clones lens is really under sized bad, and 1mm+ does make a big difference but as you tighten the bezel you can center it fairly well because of how good the clones machining is.
Now I think, I hope I got this correct, sorry again… crude start a panic… :person_facepalming:
The one Z1 measurement was both diam. Z1 44.90mm diam. x Clone 43.45mm diam.
The clone lens slops side to side easily, the z1 lens sits tight in both bezels. Exact.
@ Alan:
Just some damp breath to fog it up and wipe with a micro fibre cloth like you would use for glasses.
The Kaidomain cloths are good.
BanL included them in the mail some time ago.
Assuming at 5A, full charged 26650 sags to 4v, and then springs, switch,FET, etc cause 0.5v dropped so the LED is actually seeing 3.5V?
I measured my cometa stock xpl hi is having 3.6 forward voltage by probing mcpcb.
Battery age is one factor too. Can’t remember was i using new battery for measurement above.
I think to be safe I will use my 5years old 26650 to check forward voltage first.
For standardization, has there been some consensus on a particular smartphone app? Or due to too many platforms (various sensors used in phones), is that even a reasonable attempt?
