What did you mod today?

yes in some relative comparisons the SW45 is Very pink, but that all depends on what it is being compared to, and the white balance of the photo

some examples of the N219b 4500k looking “white”, at low levels, and in full darkness
the next 2 photos look like what I saw with my dark adapted eyes

Note that photos with single beams will tend to white balance to that beam, our brain does the same thing, so in the following photos, we see no Pink, just “natural white”, as you said.

here is that same sw45 shining on a ceiling next to a 3000k Incandescent, as you can see, it does not look pink at all… the white balance is essentially set to the 3000k incandescent. My brain does that too. So the 4500k looks relatively cool, by comparison.

the above photo actually looks very close to what I see with my eyes. I have been sitting under that 3000k light for more than an hour, my eyes now see it as white light… even though during the day it looks rather “orange”, at Daylight white balance of 5500k.

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in some cases, the sw45 photographs as violet, but that is not how my eyes see it
left to right, N219b 4000k 9050, 4000k XP-L, N219b 4500k 9080

“white” is relative to White Balance, iow, the Color temperature that our brain, or camera, is set to.

White Balance will drastically change the apparent color and tint of an LED. That is why I always include more than one beam in my photos, so people can make a Relative Comparison of tints.

in the case of the SW45, I agree it definitely looks “white” when compared to warmer CCTs, it can even look relatively Blue
otoh, during the day, when my brain is adapted to Sunlight, the SW45 definitely has more Pink Tint than Sunlight…
in fact, the SW45 is one of the most “Pink” LEDs I have (furthest below the BBL), it simply has some of the highest R9 of any LED I own… I absolutely LOVE its versatility as an EDC… Not too warm during the day, and no hint of Yellow (which I love to hate). I find the SW40 9050 “too” yellow, during the day, but the SW45 9080 does not have that “problem”…

one more example of Relative Tint and Color:

what the camera sees is not necessarily what my eyes see, it depends on what ambient light my brain is adapted to, and that is certainly not necessarily the same as what the camera sees… The auto white balance tends to bias itself to the coolest and or brightest light in a photo. In the photo above, the auto white balance is setting itself to the light on the right, a 6000k XP-L…. Tint is relative to the white balance of the brain of the beholder.

I created a ‘Rosy Rotary’ by swapping a Nichia 219B R9080 sw45k into my new Sunwayman V11R.

It’s the newest member of ‘Team Rosy.’ :partying_face:

EDIT: Correction, the Eagle Eye X1R is the newest member of ‘Team Rosy.’

It just arrived and had a 219B swap, but was too late for the group photo. We’ll have a re-take when the ROT66 arrives next week. :wink:

Aurora SH-034 Triple Nichia 219C - LD-A4 - 16500 - ILC-0 Lighted Switch.

I did SC64c #3 last night. Also I am bad at sticking on labels.

I made a couple adapters for my chargers—I have a few D cells i wanted to test and some 21700—- I used Teflon wire , a little stiff for the small magnets I used— with these you can also test your chargers output— there seems to be a little resistance—might be the galv screws I used—any way they serve their purpose—Hook to the battery first—Don’t want to short your charger

That’s a cool idea, chops! :+1:

Well I tried to mod something today… after a long time in shipment, my Virence order arrived. First time handling the e21a. Attempted a quad reflow. All went well the first try. No extra solder, alignment reasonably good. Go to the power supply to test them… 2 work, two don’t. One must’ve rotated on me. Back to try mounting them again… lifted the suspect emitter with a pair of tweezers and… flick… there she goes. Few minutes later after resorting to the UV light, I found it in the floor. Chipped the edgeand exposed the blue chip… :cry:

This dummy only bought 4. Anybody stateside have 2 sm453’s they can part with?

just some S43S Lego

Not that much real mods but a busy afternoon anyway :

  • Since i received my usbasp a few days ago i converted all my convoy S2 that weren't already from 3/5 modes to Biscotti firmare (had to cut the pcb on pin 5 because it was tied to ground on the old drivers)
  • While doing that i confirmed that all 7135 are not made equal. The ones i had on a 3/5 modes driver i got for GB were not working in moonlight mode. Nice i had some spare from a 8x7135 i converted to 4x7135 so it's working now ... almost working actually as the light output and current show that only 3/4 are doing their job but since the pcb is now soldered into the pill i'll invastigate that later (bad solder ? Fried 7135 ?). I was hesitating to make it 1A or 1.4A anyway ;-)
  • Baked a Utorch XLP-V6 in the kitchen oven. Looks like i have to find something hotter as i got some chocolate while i was expecting "coyote" or "desert tan", not bad anyway and still better than the stock black anodization.
  • Started paper-sanding an other Utorch XPL-V6 to remove most of the black anodization (you guessed i don't like it very much ;-) ). I am expecting some "worn old tool" look but the "too much sanding" is hiding nearby so who knows what i'll get

Hjeh. kewl!

I made “disposable” ones that way. The wires/magnets I keep, but would use those whote tubular “foam” (blown LDPE, I think) to wedge ’em in 1-cell chargers for my 26650s when I wouldn’t want to unpack a bigger charger.

Like now, with the Cometas, I needed to charge a 26650 that I had in an F13… dug up the wires, and ♫ viola ♫, instant charger! :smiley:

Similar pic from Vinh:

who said the S43S is not compatible with the S42?

some generation - meeting LEGO:

I was the one who told that info on TLF. :person_facepalming: I tested my early 2017 S42’s front bezel which only took 2 or 3 rounds and then … no way to close the gap.

So maybe the newer S42 bezels will fit … ?

It is not necessary connected to the production date.
When they produce with more lathes on different lines one can be off.

Or one cutting tool was worn out and they replaced or adjusted it to late.

Maratac CR123 Rev3 Triple Nichia 219C 90CRI & Lighted Tail Switch.

I’m in love. :heart_eyes:

wonderful build CRX

It lasts some days, but I have written my report with some pictures:


Nice mod Wieselflinkpro. Lots of experimenting there. :beer:

Yes, nice experimenting! The hotspot actually looks really decent through the fresnel lens!