Maratac CR123 Rev3 Triple Nichia 219C 90CRI & Lighted Tail Switch.
I’m in love. :heart_eyes:
wonderful build CRX
It lasts some days, but I have written my report with some pictures:
- German Report: BLF GT + Fresnel-Linse + Wavien Kragen | Taschenlampen Forum
- Gallery: BLF GT | Taschenlampen Forum
Nice mod Wieselflinkpro. Lots of experimenting there. 
Yes, nice experimenting! The hotspot actually looks really decent through the fresnel lens!
1.6Mcd with an XHP35, very nice.
I gotta add this to my list of most powerful flashlights 
Wieselflinkpro, very impressive! Thanks for posting. Would be nice if Lumintop can actually manufacture one for mass production
Thank you, M4D M4X, for doing this lego. I wondered if the colored S42S tubes would fit the S43S. I’m not very pleased about the black anodisation, your colorful version looks much better and tempting!
I agree :+1:
Where is Enderman? You see Enderman that was I talking to you few days ago…
Bravo Wieselflinkpro… Very good build.
I know Enderman would say that fresnel lens are no go but I really like it :+1:
Turned the Lumintop Tool AA into a UV flashlight.
I used a SK68 clone driver (1 mode, AA/14500), a Nichia UV 365nm from Convoy S2, and a UV filter from the S2 as well.
To make it shorter, I am using it with the magnetic tail (making it a 1 mode twisty), not the clicky tail!
I already posted above you… 
Seems like he got an aspheric fresnel lens, which are kinda rare, as you can tell from the sharp die projection in the spot.
It’s still very low performance compared to what a normal aspheric glass lens would do, closer to 3Mcd.
Of course it has it’s advantages like being cheaper and lighter.
Nice UV Tool MascaratumB! I take it that you had to sand the filter quite a bit smaller?
I tried the new Osram KW CSLNM1.TG led in a BLF D80. I made a 12x7135 biscotti driver by adding 4 chips. In the end I measured only 3.9A so 1 chips is probably not cooperating, but 3.9A is pretty nice for this led anyway.
The output is 710 djozz-lumen which is close enough to max, and I think I did a good job focussing it (I combined two centering rings, one inside the other, both sanded down on the underside until the rims were paper-thin), see the beam at 5m distance, but still I got “only” 140 kcd throw on max, while I hoped for 170 kcd.
It has become a nice little light though, I think this led fits very well in the D80…
Thanks djozz!!
Yes, I had to use a “dremmel”-like tool (Parkside from Lidl ) and had to grind it (with a disc) for a while!
Method: I used the original Tool AA lens to draw and cut a DC-Fix circle and “glued” it on one side of the filter. After that, I put the disc in perpendicular position towards the lens and started grinding until some glass started to jump. From then on, I’ve passed in circles on the edges of the lens until it fit on the flashlight! The DC-Fix circle not only helped to make the “tour” around the lens, but also prevented some glass breaking in an already fragile part!
And it was it 
I’m not very good at these things, but it works well, and most of all, it is small 
And that’s what I’d call a tight spot!! Nice :sunglasses:
Put a Black Flat in my D1.
I don’t how much we can trust the numbers but I get about 100kCd out of it. D1S is about 350 with the same LED and M3XS about 400.
I need to re-focus the D1 farther with a centering ring though
EDIT : crap pic of the M3XS beam, nice and tight :
Well at 5.8A draw you can expect 15-20% more but we have to think on runtime and used host… I think performance is superb for such a small reflector light… Back in 2007. reflectors with 20kcd were considered as superthrowers…
If you let the light become warm to the touch, the Osram LED will overheat at over 5A. 5.8A only works with perfect cooling.
Nope… My test subject(osram white ) does not overheats even after 3 full minutes on Samsung 30Q (more than 7A draw)… Performance drops for more than 20% but it does not dies and after that it act normal at 5.5 A.
So it should be fine for short run times on turbo mode at 5.8 A. Sure without control or by accident it could cook itself. But that is case with any overdriven led? I don’t want to leave even xpg2s42b on turbo for more than 5 minutes…
And now imagine to toggle lets say middle mode in same light at only 3.5A and you actually see that performance just slightly dropped So that new Little Osram guy is like Viagra… Very constant in performance
BTW. I know that there are certain emitters that can pull around 13A on single cell without dying and have similar lux performance as new Osram white with more lumens. So they will not die that easily… Even with passive cooling. So future seems to be bright for led technology these days. They seem to be more robust than ever with lover vf than ever.
You might be able to get more performance by running a lower current somewhere between 3-5 amps since it will be producing less heat and running at higher efficiency.
I’ve ran mine up to 6A with lots of cooling.
I’ve also killed one at 6-6.5A probably because I didn’t let it warm up long enough at first turn on.
What driver or resistance changes did you make for the D1S?